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11-12-2018, 03:33 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: So Cal
Posts: 4,045
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I've got the HS2211 but the internals are likely the same......
When mine ignites, the green LED is illuminated....
..and on the fuse question, it appears that these fuses are rated at 63V..so lots of headroom there..
__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element
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11-12-2018, 05:27 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 84
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Started Propex HS2800 per instructions – Turned ThermostatCCW (Lowest setting), pushed switch to left, green LED came on and then fancame on, then the yellow LED came on (both LEDs on now) and then heat.
Waited, both LEDs went off at same time, green just barelybefore yellow, fan still ran until air cooled down.
Turned thermostat up – green LED came on, 30 seconds later (timed)Yellow LED on (Both LEDs on now)
Turned thermostat down – Both LEDs off, fan running, 3 minuteslater (timed) fan stopped.
Repeated above a couple of times then waited for fan to stoprunning and moved switch to center (Off)
I then shut off propane.
I decided to check moving switch to the right (Fan). Movedthe switch to the right and the fan and green LED came on and stayed on until Iswitched to center (Off) and green LED went off and fan stopped.
Neither LED flickered they were either on or off.
__________________
1995 E250 2x SMB White Contempo Top Custom SMB Interior 5.8L (351) 69K miles
Added Propane Tank & Propex HS2800/20 Gal Fresh inside/20 gal gray underneath behind axle
2.8K Onan/Porti Potti Shower Area/110V Digital Oil filled Electric Radiator Heater/Dynaglo for backup
Hankook Dynapro ATs 225/75-16 LRE
New to me 10/2008 - 2nd owner
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11-12-2018, 11:06 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sterling, AK
Posts: 129
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Thanks so much RNJ! I really appreciate the time. See post coming which may be the issue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnj
Started Propex HS2800 per instructions – Turned ThermostatCCW (Lowest setting), pushed switch to left, green LED came on and then fancame on, then the yellow LED came on (both LEDs on now) and then heat.
Waited, both LEDs went off at same time, green just barelybefore yellow, fan still ran until air cooled down.
Turned thermostat up – green LED came on, 30 seconds later (timed)Yellow LED on (Both LEDs on now)
Turned thermostat down – Both LEDs off, fan running, 3 minuteslater (timed) fan stopped.
Repeated above a couple of times then waited for fan to stoprunning and moved switch to center (Off)
I then shut off propane.
I decided to check moving switch to the right (Fan). Movedthe switch to the right and the fan and green LED came on and stayed on until Iswitched to center (Off) and green LED went off and fan stopped.
Neither LED flickered they were either on or off.
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11-13-2018, 12:07 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sterling, AK
Posts: 129
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RNJ and others,
My heater is NOW working, no flickering lights as RNJ described. The thermostat cable was damaged.
Here's the fix in detail. Two photos attached for explanation.
The Previous Owner (PO), did an unusual mod and prolly needs to go to Vegas.
My van has a minimal cabinetry build. Inside the largest cabinet is where the Propex was located on the floor, meaning the cabinet is pretty useless for storage.
The cabinet has a cushion on top as a seat, with a cushion (with fold out feet) against wall that can be used to make a larger bed. Originally, there were 2 snaps holding it up. Somewhere along the way, the far snap popped off. The PO's fix was NOT to replace snap, and NOT to place a screw loop head, but to place the two metal handles into the wall and use hooks to keep the back cushion upright. OK, makes sense, kinda. Anyway, he drilled the holes for the handles and the bottom one, below the thermostat went right through the thermostat cable. Dead center, for the jackpot win. Not leaving enough wire to cut and rewire.
This was found after I pulled the wall panel down. And yes, he knew it as he had tried to fix it with wrong tape on just one wire. May have missed the second one. Sadly, I couldn't find my electrical tape, so I did a similar repair with duct tape, but isolated the two torn wires. So, when I get the fuse and if it works properly, I'll need to go back and repair with electrical tape.
If that doesn't fix it, I'll get a newer model thermostat which comes with the cable for the same price as the current thermostat alone.
Karl, at Westy Ventures was very helpful, but said the circuit board may have been damaged too. I have 2 fuses on the way and will be able to sort that out once they arrive.
Incidentally, the manual states these heaters should be fitted with copper tubing from the gas source. As mentioned before, there's a propane tank above the bumper, hole through back door and a flexible tube along the wall to cabinet that is hooked up to the heater. Sounds like more mods coming!
Again, thanks for the help.
Wandering Bob
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11-13-2018, 09:32 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Renton, Wa
Posts: 438
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Glad you got it figured out. Nice job tracking it down.
Hopefully no further issues once you get the fuse in.
Fyi, I run my propane in a similar fashion with a rubber hose and disconnects. Hasn’t been an issue in 3-4 years.
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11-13-2018, 10:17 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 84
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When I was researching getting mine it looked like the newer model wiring had connectors attached at the end of the wires vs no connectors on the ends and just putting the wires directly into screw connections inside the heater. You may need to cut off the connector to make it work on existing circuit board. You may want to ask Karl about this. I wanted to drill the smallest hole possible to run wires through so wanted the old style.
__________________
1995 E250 2x SMB White Contempo Top Custom SMB Interior 5.8L (351) 69K miles
Added Propane Tank & Propex HS2800/20 Gal Fresh inside/20 gal gray underneath behind axle
2.8K Onan/Porti Potti Shower Area/110V Digital Oil filled Electric Radiator Heater/Dynaglo for backup
Hankook Dynapro ATs 225/75-16 LRE
New to me 10/2008 - 2nd owner
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11-15-2018, 01:47 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sterling, AK
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BUFFALO
Glad you got it figured out. Nice job tracking it down.
Hopefully no further issues once you get the fuse in.
Fyi, I run my propane in a similar fashion with a rubber hose and disconnects. Hasn’t been an issue in 3-4 years.
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Thanks Buffalo,
I suppose, if I route the hose more out of the way, there'll be less chance of damaging it. Plus, putting a rubber grommet where the hose enters the door will help.
Bob
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11-15-2018, 01:56 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sterling, AK
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnj
When I was researching getting mine it looked like the newer model wiring had connectors attached at the end of the wires vs no connectors on the ends and just putting the wires directly into screw connections inside the heater. You may need to cut off the connector to make it work on existing circuit board. You may want to ask Karl about this. I wanted to drill the smallest hole possible to run wires through so wanted the old style.
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Thanks again RNJ.
Good points. Depends on the size of the connector that comes through the wall. If it's just a bit larger hole, I'd be ok. I need to replace the double sided tape that was holding on the thermostat, so that in itself would be an improvement in covering the current hole.
I'm thinking about pulling off the wall material that SMB put on to see how well they insulated the walls, My high top is insulated pretty nicely. More mods!
Bob
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11-16-2018, 11:13 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 84
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I was trying to note that there may be an issue connecting the harness to the existing circuit board as the new harness may have a connector on it where the existing one just has wires that fit into screw connections on the circuit board. I think you would have to cut off the connector to make it work on the existing board. I think the new circuit board would have the other side of the connector. If you need a new circuit board you wouldn't want to cut off the connector.
I only brought up the hole size as I wanted the smallest hole so I got the older style thermostat.
__________________
1995 E250 2x SMB White Contempo Top Custom SMB Interior 5.8L (351) 69K miles
Added Propane Tank & Propex HS2800/20 Gal Fresh inside/20 gal gray underneath behind axle
2.8K Onan/Porti Potti Shower Area/110V Digital Oil filled Electric Radiator Heater/Dynaglo for backup
Hankook Dynapro ATs 225/75-16 LRE
New to me 10/2008 - 2nd owner
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11-16-2018, 11:58 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sterling, AK
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnj
I was trying to note that there may be an issue connecting the harness to the existing circuit board as the new harness may have a connector on it where the existing one just has wires that fit into screw connections on the circuit board. I think you would have to cut off the connector to make it work on the existing board. I think the new circuit board would have the other side of the connector. If you need a new circuit board you wouldn't want to cut off the connector.
I only brought up the hole size as I wanted the smallest hole so I got the older style thermostat.
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Now I get it! We shall see when fuses show up. Working perfectly still!
Thanks,
Bob
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