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Old 03-22-2014, 11:54 PM   #1
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Starting my Espar install...

I have a Espar D10 waiting to get mounted on AmbuLand. The goal is to have this unit provide heat for 3 distinct circuits.
1) to heat the engine for easy winter start
2) to heat the hot water heat exchanger
3) to heat the rear cabin (bus heater with fan)



I found a sweet spot for it underneath, basically under the driver seat but on the outside of the frame rail, fits perfectly and nicely tucked away (just in front of the tranny crossmember).

I built a new support out of 1/4" steel to mount the Espar against the frame but also pushed out 1" for proper clearance. Got some wire brush action today cleaning and prepping the frame for a fresh paint job on that area before mounting the unit. Just waiting for better weather before painting.

I already have coolant lines going between the engine and a rear heater that I plan on tapping in. On line comes from the rear of the 7.3L engine (driver's side) just above the exhaust manifold as pictured below.



Now, question for you guys. Is this typically the supply or the return and if it's the supply is this a good location to supply the Espar?

The other line goes to the front passenger's side firewall (heater core?)

I'll post more pictures as I go along but for now I still have to figure a few things to properly isolate each circuits via solenoids (on/off or 3-way valves).

Thanks!
Mr. D
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:50 PM   #2
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

Just a few pictures from today since the weather was nice enough to work outside...

The bracket to attach the Espar on the frame:

Still a bit chilly to paint so let's improvise...
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:53 PM   #3
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

By the end the paint was still a bit tacky so I'll have to wait till tomorrow to mount it. But I still had a bit of paint left and couldn't resist some more POR-15 action...

Cheers
Mr. D
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:07 PM   #4
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Starting my Espar install...

I'm copying my post from the Expo forum to save me some time...


When starting from scratch there's a few things that needs to be considered before going crazy with building the interior. Plumbing and electrical are the big ones for me.

I got some great ideas from fellow Expo and SMB members that set me in the right direction or got me great deals on some of the parts like my Espar, mixing valve...

My task this weekend was to plan the plumbing, get every missing parts and find a place to mount them.

I separated the plumbing in two, coolant & water.

First picture is coolant.



Tapping at the rear of the engine, through the Espar and into a manifold allowing heating of 3 systems in parallel, (rear heat, hot water, Wvo and engine warming).
I've added shut off valves before and after the Espar so the unit can be removed for servicing.
I also added another valve to the rear heat loop. No point heating the cabin if all you want is hot water in the summer...
At the end of each load I've added a bleeder valve (helps filling the coolant and removing air in lines), circled in red.
I still need to figure a secondary expansion tank somewhere in there, probably 1-2 gallons.
Gotta love those stainless and brass fittings!


Next the water system.



Hopefully the picture can explain better than I can but these are some highlights.
Right after the 22 gallons tank there a on/off valve followed by a garden hose hookup so I can either
- open valve and fill tank from city hookup
- close valve and pull water from another water source (city hookup, lake...)
Sediment filter, Shurflo pump with flex hoses to help with pump noise along with extension tank.
Cold water splits to heat exchanger side with a small bleeder valve at the top and a drain valve at the bottom (for winterizing) then into a mixing valve.
The "IV" hand drawn in black is a Seagull IV filtration system. I'm plumbing a bypass loop so I get to use it only as needed (drinking water). If it wasn't loop it would wear the filter faster and restrict the flow in the long run.
At the end there's 3 outlets (A,B,C) for sink, shower and outside tap/shower.

I started building the water cabinet by the rear driver side door (where the electrical used to be) and I'm hopeful all this mess will fit in there. It will be tight!

Next couple days I'll tackle the WVO conversion and some more plumbing, stay tuned

Cheers
Mr. D


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Old 03-30-2014, 05:57 PM   #5
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

One modification I may do will be to plumb the Seagull filter outlet directly to a drinking water tap so not to contaminate those lines with non-filtered water...


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Old 03-31-2014, 11:51 AM   #6
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

I wish I had a inside valve to kill/drain the line to the outside shower connection. Seems its the first to freeze and I never shower outside in freezing weather.
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:12 PM   #7
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

Good point daveb, quite easy to add at this stage so thanks for the input!




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Old 04-03-2014, 12:18 AM   #8
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

It's up and neatly tucked away! Still need to hook up the intake vent, muffler and fuel hose before building a bottom skid plate. Then there will be more plumbing, lots of it!
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Old 04-03-2014, 12:26 AM   #9
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

How sensitive are these Espar to mud or water? Buddy of mine sealed his D4 into an old tool box but most I've seen here were simply mounted against the frame. I know Espar sells a box for them...

Thanks in advance!
Mr. D
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Old 04-03-2014, 04:34 PM   #10
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Re: Starting my Espar install...

Mine did have a lot of dirt in it but it still worked. The intake/exhaust is or can be an issue and must be unobstructed.
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