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Old 06-05-2018, 02:59 PM   #11
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Hi Twoxentrix, I might of missed it in the conversation but are you having an overheating problem or are you just not ok with the operating temperatures of a PSD 6.0?

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Originally Posted by Twoxentrix View Post
Has anyone performed the BPD 7.3 fan clutch adapter swap for the 6.0 engine? If so, Did/does it make a significant difference?
I've seen those on BPD site and wondered how it effects the AC temperature. I've had trucks that the AC was worthless until the radiator was hot enough to engage the fan some. And, how they get around the code that not having a connected speed sensor would cause. On my van with the stock electric/hydraulic fan there is a speed sensor that needs to correlate to the commanded fan speed voltage. This doesn't trip a check engine light code but there will be code on my Edge Insight for it if I use the manual fan over ride switch. Clearing all codes erases it but then triggers the Readiness Drive Cycle not met code. None of this is an issue unless you live in a State the is excited about emissions.

Just wondered how they get around that.
And curious what heat issue your having.
-Eric

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Old 06-05-2018, 03:52 PM   #12
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Eric,
I outlined my current temp situation in the initial post on this thread, but I may have been vague about my true motivation.
Running on the high side of normal with ECT & EOT makes me feel claustrophobic - When considering more adverse weather & travel conditions (EX: 100 outside temp, and/or slow traveling on backroads) i can see I have less room than other if i have to deal with adverse situations - especially when I know I'll be distant from civilization...I need peace of mind.
Many Rigs showcased on this forum are outfitted similar to mine (front Aluminess bumper), but seem to have a better handle on Temps. The only real variable i can see that seems to differentiate me is the weight of my van.
ShuttlePilot provided good info early in this thread, and i simply feel I need to distance myself more from many of those "critical" limits - and lowering the ECT seems to be the most effective resolve (since that also directly impacts the EOT)
Interestingly, I did receive a response today from an inquiry dealing with the Amsoil Dual Bypass Filter system...seems it endures the full flow of the oil system, so it is feasible to lower Oil temps by splicing an auxiliary Oil cooler into those lines (and have some benefit on reducing oil temps). They also stated they dont encourage this action, but acknowledge people have been doing it.

All in all, its become frustrating trying to accomplish my goal - basically because its an E-350 and options are very limited.

This is why I'm also exploring the 7.3 fan clutch adapter from BPD - just dont know if it will help me more at lower speed or higher speeds (or both) compared to my current OEM set-up
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Old 06-05-2018, 04:15 PM   #13
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Your ECTs are normal, due to the full-open rating of your thermostat. I'm sure Ford put a hot thermostat in to reduce particulates emissions (hot running engines actually are more efficient). Higher ambient temps might not further increase your ECTs since you're just barely unto full-open operating temps now. You are not on the high-side of normal here. You are exactly where I'd expect. The only area I think you're borderline is the ECT delta, and lowering your ECTs won't address that issue.

The 7.3L clutch won't improve your temps or airflow. It's sole benefit is reliability. The fan will spin the same speed when the clutch is fully engaged, except then you lose the PCM control of the 6.0 clutch, and your idle ECTs will probably go up, and your A/C performance will go down.

BTW - do you have a coolant filter installed? Which coolant are you running? If you don't have one, and have yellow coolant, I'd certainly strongly recommend doing a chemical flush to remove and silica precipitates, and then either go to a regular drain and fill schedule, or better yet, upgrade to the CAT ELC coolant.
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Old 06-05-2018, 05:04 PM   #14
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Twoxentrix, got it. If I was going to try this I would first try out the low temp Mishimoto thermostat. Mostly because it's the easiest/cheapest to do and easily reversible if I wasn't happy with it. There is a ton, an I mean a ton, of conjecture of what is the factory thermostat open/fully open temps are. Mishimoto claims they have a high and a low temp that is just that in relation to what the OEM thermostat is. I say get the lower temp one and try it out. You'll know what the difference is in YOUR VAN. That is what's important.

My opinion is that your current set up is still within normal limits. You already have an aluminum radiator and the stock fan setup can move an insane amount of BTUs when in full operation. Which will be at 226 degrees(ish). I say try it.

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Old 06-05-2018, 05:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb View Post
Your ECTs are normal, due to the full-open rating of your thermostat. I'm sure Ford put a hot thermostat in to reduce particulates emissions (hot running engines actually are more efficient). Higher ambient temps might not further increase your ECTs since you're just barely unto full-open operating temps now. You are not on the high-side of normal here. You are exactly where I'd expect. The only area I think you're borderline is the ECT delta, and lowering your ECTs won't address that issue.

The 7.3L clutch won't improve your temps or airflow. It's sole benefit is reliability. The fan will spin the same speed when the clutch is fully engaged, except then you lose the PCM control of the 6.0 clutch, and your idle ECTs will probably go up, and your A/C performance will go down.

BTW - do you have a coolant filter installed? Which coolant are you running? If you don't have one, and have yellow coolant, I'd certainly strongly recommend doing a chemical flush to remove and silica precipitates, and then either go to a regular drain and fill schedule, or better yet, upgrade to the CAT ELC coolant.


Carringb - your comments provide me a little piece of mind. Your assessment of the BPD 7.3 Clutch upgrade is exactly the type of "informed" info that i appreciate - stupidly didnt even think about less flow when idling (along with having no recourse when temps in that situation decide to climb).
I did install a Coolant filter at the same time I had the engine replaced - also change coolant every 15,000 miles and have maintained the OEM coolant because of the frequent changes (overkill i know - but again peace of mind)

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Originally Posted by ShuttlePilot View Post
Twoxentrix,. If I was going to try this I would first try out the low temp Mishimoto thermostat. Mostly because it's the easiest/cheapest to do and easily reversible if I wasn't happy with it. There is a ton, an I mean a ton, of conjecture of what is the factory thermostat open/fully open temps are. Mishimoto claims they have a high and a low temp that is just that in relation to what the OEM thermostat is. I say get the lower temp one and try it out. You'll know what the difference is in YOUR VAN. That is what's important.

My opinion is that your current set up is still within normal limits. You already have an aluminum radiator and the stock fan setup can move an insane amount of BTUs when in full operation. Which will be at 226 degrees(ish). I say try it - Eric


Eric -Great info! I have seriously considered the Mishimoto fan kits - Specifically thinking about a "pusher" for in front of the radiator...but had no idea they had thermostats. Thank you for the heads up - simple address & Great idea! - ordering one of those first thing to see what difference it will make.
When I had the Engine done, I thought I addressed all pertinent Bullet Proof info & suggestions supporting the "replace is a good idea because you have easy access at that time" collected from members such as yourselves, but never ran across suggestions of changing out the fan clutch - recently i was told it gets week over time. So i think I'll have that done soon since its 12yrs old. Is their a better fan clutch available that i should consider over an OEM?
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Old 08-20-2020, 09:16 AM   #16
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Hey everyone’s not to revive an old thread but this is the only place I can find the same info I’m searching for. I am also concerned about high temps, especially my trans which I just did a filter and fluid change for to see if it would help. I feel like my temps are within limits after reading the thread but on the higher side. What did you do to bring temps down? After driving for about 1.5 hours on the highway then hitting slow city traffic I was at:
EOT: 219 ECT: 216 Trans: 216. @80 degrees ambient

I’m new to the 6.0L and have had 7.3’s before this. Never saw my trans above 180 on my 7.3. Also is it normal to have ECT higher than EOT until warm up?

Van is stock for now as far as interior goes ( stock weight), stock front bumper, new oil cooler, head studs, injectors, clutch fan have all been recently replaced. Van does have a tow tune van specific with a SCT tuner which is also used for monitoring temps.
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Old 08-20-2020, 09:46 AM   #17
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That is hot for the trans. But how long did it stay there? There is most definitely a heat-soak affect coming off a freeway and then sitting in stop and go traffic. In your case, I'd suspect the fan clutch might not be working. Can you hear it roaring? When you come off the freeeway then stop, that should fully engage the fan until you get going again.
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Old 08-20-2020, 10:59 AM   #18
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VanDam - I’m with carringb in that your trans temps are not normal. In my original set up my trans temp might see 200 on occasion, but mostly hovered around 190 (but my van weighs in at 11,500lbs so is working harder than most)
I did have a trans temp issue one time back in 2016...temps would be erratic for a couple days, meaning from 185 then jump to 205 or 215 and then come back down. Did this about 4 times in a couple days, and then after hitting a long uphill stretch It began puking trans fluid. Turned out they overfilled the fluid during a recent change and that’s what caused all the issues.
As far as ECT being hotter than EOT while it’s warming up, that’s normal. Takes a little longer for the oil to get to operating temp.
My resolve to get my fluid temps down: I replaced the fan clutch and installed the mishimoto low temp thermostat, and at the same time I had 5-Star tune creat 3 tunes for me, all of which kick in the fan earlier. Now my fan engages when my coolant temp hits around 212 and oil temp hits 216 (or a close variation of that)...so on steep grades I will now see coolant go as high as 218-222 and oil 220-224. Have not seen those 230 temps anymore.
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Old 08-20-2020, 12:38 PM   #19
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^^^Same here for the most part. My T-temps ran about 200-210 in hot weather but cooler outside air temps usually made a difference. I had a SCT tuner and had issues with that tune. Got rid of that and purchased a DP tuner. DP wrote a specific tune that has a bit more aggressive fan control. Everything runs about 10 degrees cooler including the trans. I still have to watch pulling a grade at slow speed in warm weather but mine averages around 190 in hot conditions. A modified tune seemed to make a big difference.
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Old 08-20-2020, 01:46 PM   #20
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Awesome thanks for the replies.

I just purchased the Van and was told that the clutch fan was just replaced, all looks new. I think something my be up with the fan as well. I can here it come on when I have the AC on but when there’s no AC I don’t hear the loud fan coming on. I was just coming home and the trans reached that temp, I let it idle down for a while at home before shutting it down. Yesterday in a drive it came up to 210 then was back down to 204. Still I’d like to see it back in the 180 area. I’ll take a look at 5-Star tunes and see if I can get the same tunes. If that doesn’t work I’ll go for the other thermostat. Anyone wire in a manual switch for the fan? Is there somewhere I can look into what to do there?
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