Changing Pop Top Gasket

stiggs · 08-20-2019, 02:07 PM

I bought a new gasket last year and it is now time to replace the old one as the rivet holes have torn in a few places. For those who have taken on this project so you have any advise?

Thanks

Twoxentrix · 08-20-2019, 02:39 PM

Subscribed - stiggs glad you asked the question...I too purchased a replacement gasket a year ago, just haven't made the time to replace it - with constructive advise you receive I'll (unfortunately) have no reason to delay any longer.

boywonder · 08-20-2019, 04:58 PM

I used a paper hole puncher to punch holes in the rubber.....and I used brass sex bolts from McMaster to install it.....They are also called "binder" bolts

It's been a while, but I think that there is only a hole punched in the outer flange of the rubber; a most robust solution would be to punch through both flanges and bolt both rubber flanges to the fiberglass.

BenJJ · 08-20-2019, 05:21 PM

Another tip in case this isn't obvious, start at the back in the very middle and work your way around. You will have extra gasket to trim off at the end, and you may also end up with extra of those black buttons that you push through the gasket/top.

Definitely second boywonder's input to punch through both sides for a good hold. Just work your way along, punching holes in the gasket to align with the previously used holes in the fiberglass shell and then press the black plastic buttons through said holes. Then just trim off the excess part of the button on the inside of the shell so it doesn't rub the paint off your roof.

Twoxentrix · 08-20-2019, 05:33 PM

May I ask the group if its advised to stretch the gasket some to keep it from buckling over time? Or is it sufficient to pull it just slightly taut so no initial slack is visible?

86Scotty · 08-20-2019, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

May I ask the group if its advised to stretch the gasket some to keep it from buckling over time? Or is it sufficient to pull it just slightly taut so no initial slack is visible?

No need to stretch. If I remember right it won't stretch much anyway. Just pull it taut as you go.

boywonder · 08-21-2019, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BenJJ

Definitely second boywonder's input to punch through both sides for a good hold. Just work your way along, punching holes in the gasket to align with the previously used holes in the fiberglass shell and then press the black plastic buttons through said holes. Then just trim off the excess part of the button on the inside of the shell so it doesn't rub the paint off your roof.

I'm not sure punching thru both flanges will do much with the supplied plastic push fasteners... It will certainly work with sexbolts/binder bolts because there will be a fastener head on both sides.

Orv · 08-21-2019, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

May I ask the group if its advised to stretch the gasket some to keep it from buckling over time? Or is it sufficient to pull it just slightly taut so no initial slack is visible?

I don't think I'd stretch it. Mine shows signs of shrinking (pulling in at the corners) so you probably don't want to pre-tension it.

Twoxentrix · 08-21-2019, 04:05 PM

Good feedback - Thanks for the responses.

vandiesel · 08-21-2019, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boywonder

I used a paper hole puncher to punch holes in the rubber.....and I used brass sex bolts from McMaster to install it.....They are also called "binder" bolts

It's been a while, but I think that there is only a hole punched in the outer flange of the rubber; a most robust solution would be to punch through both flanges and bolt both rubber flanges to the fiberglass.

Do you remember which ones you used?