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Old 05-09-2017, 02:48 PM   #1
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Espar water heater - not

My diesel Espar water heater is not putting out any water. Van is fairly new to me and I think I have all the valves properly closed. I get plenty of cold water out of the sink but nothing out of the hot side. Water pump is on while trying to get this up and running.

Heater fires up and sounds like a turbine but then kind of chugs a bit then shuts down. The Espar furnace works just fine if that's anything to note. Haven't had a chance to use it much but know that we did have hot water last summer and fall.

Not sure WTD at this point or where to look. No calls returned by SMB west service staff so that's not working.
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Old 05-09-2017, 03:18 PM   #2
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Do you have separate water and space heaters? D5 for hot water and a D2/D4 for space??
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Old 05-09-2017, 03:33 PM   #3
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Sure sounds like a valve is closed. So you're saying there is no water at all is coming out of the sinks hot faucet?

Is the Espar panel throwing any codes?
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Old 05-09-2017, 05:58 PM   #4
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Separate furnace and water heater. No codes from the water heater. I looked and looked and then the RV repair guy looked and we can't find what valve would still be shut off.
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:47 PM   #5
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Can these develop a pressure block?
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Old 05-09-2017, 10:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmMay View Post
Can these develop a pressure block?
Maybe but I've never heard of it. Water (coolant) should always flow through the Hydronic and the (potable water) through the flat plate even if its turned off. Obviously the water pump is pressurizing the system because the cold water is pumping from the faucet. With a kinked hose I'd think you would get some flow. I froze my flat plate once and destroyed it but the fresh water still flowed to the faucet. Luckily it didn't allow engine coolant to get through, something I watch for.

There are drains to winterize the system and if the line has water, opening the hot water drain should produce water provided the water pump is on (pressurized). I'd follow the lines to the flat plate and check for inline valves.
Sorry I don't recall if there is a valve close to the water tank on the Hot water line.
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Old 05-09-2017, 10:57 PM   #7
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I'll go over it in detail again tomorrow once it stops raining around here.
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Old 05-10-2017, 08:10 AM   #8
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Is it a Rixen setup, assuming it is:

Sprinter and Class B & C RV’s

Get hold of these dudes, maybe they will be less busy than SMB...
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Old 05-10-2017, 09:06 AM   #9
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The "starts and chugs to a stop" and that it was working fine last year are a couple of important data points.

Sounds like a clogged screen going into the D5 combustion chamber. If you have easy access to the D5, (may need a special tool) and can pull the glow plug out to check it and the screen, that will provide a confirmation or elimination answer.

I had the screen on our D4 clog up on this last ski trip. By keeping the thermostat low for a long period of time and especially not ramping up the heat for 5 mins before turning off the heater, the screen clogged up. I also have a feeling that the fuel additive contributed to this condition. I did not have a replacement screen, so I fully cleaned out the existing one, and it fired back up properly. In my case, I had to disassemble the whole heater. Getting a spare screen and glow plug with tool is on my to do list.

How is your hot water heater used? Where is the D5 heater located, in the cabin or below the floor? Does it run on full for 20 to 30 mins and then get shut down, or does it go to a long period of low heat before shutting down. Is there a way to allow the D5 unit to go to full heat for 5 mins before shutting off to burn off any residue?
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Old 05-10-2017, 12:21 PM   #10
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Ray I thought the OP said a separate unit for cab heat and one for the water heating. If it's a D-5 or a Rixen setup I don't know much about those. Sorry for any confusion.
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