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Old 11-24-2019, 06:45 AM   #1
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House battery depleted while driving

Background: House batteries replaced in Jan. 2019. No problem with the battery all summer and charging off the alternator or shore power.

Issue: Took a 400 mile trip with house batteries off the entire drive. Arrived to discover batteries completely depleted. Connected to shore power and batteries fully recharged.

Thoughts: Checked the fuses on the isolator which is where the forums leads me to think the issue might exist. No issues with the fuses.

Interested to know the steps I should take to trouble shoot the battery recharge issue.

Thanks,
Charlie
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Old 11-24-2019, 06:57 AM   #2
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Need more background, vehicle, year, and more importantly what "isolator" you have.

-greg
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Old 11-24-2019, 08:30 AM   #3
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^^^ Yep ^^^ Look for a blue aluminum heat sync type thingy under the hood with big wires in and out of it near your battery. It looks like an old car (audio) amp but smaller. If you find it that is the infamous Sure Power isolator SMB used for years and they often fail. There are better options nowadays. Looks like this:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/8006...RoCuBwQAvD_BwE
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Old 11-24-2019, 09:34 AM   #4
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A 2014 E350 Sportsmobile. The Automatic Charging Relay is a Bluesea Systems 7620. Image attached. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-24-2019, 09:43 AM   #5
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Weird, those are usually pretty reliable. You must have a dead short somewhere.
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Old 11-24-2019, 10:24 AM   #6
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You need to check for power at the battery side of the isolator. this is a non-fused cable and should show the same voltage as your starting battery. I have attached the owner's manual for reference, If you have power at both lugs on the Isolator then start testing your sensing wires. one of the sensing wires is most likely disconnected or shorted out, has a blown fuse(short). Do not install bigger amp fuse if blown, I believe they call for a 2a fuse.
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File Type: pdf 7620.pdf (766.6 KB, 9 views)
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Old 11-24-2019, 10:41 AM   #7
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You sure the alternator isn't dying a slow death and the house battery is helping keep the starting batteries alive?
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Old 11-24-2019, 11:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeH View Post
You sure the alternator isn't dying a slow death and the house battery is helping keep the starting batteries alive?

^^^^yup.....check the battery voltage with the engine running..preferably at a fast idle.....have the wife step on the gas a little.
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Old 11-24-2019, 01:57 PM   #9
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The most common failure in that installation is the ground wire. I don't expect that sportsmobile added the remote switch with the unit, or you could try some things or look for error blink codes.

So check the ground wire from the ACR 7620. It may be fused, I doubt it, they are notorious for making bad ground connections. After that all the other wires can be disconnected. There are no sense wires, only a control wire. Sportsmobile has notoriously been known to wire this incorrectly. They do try to wire it to the "Start" circuit, and sometimes wire it instead to the "Run" circuit. The Start Circuit has 12 V when the key is in start, the Run Circuit has 12 V when the key is in run. The yellow wire will be for LED indicators , the brn, org, and green are all for start isolation, if that was wired in the brn wire would go to the start circuit.

The red control wire works like this, if left open attached to nothing the ACR will be in auto mode. If the wire is tied to 12 volts, the ACR will close , meaning you should be able to charge from the alternator. If the read wire is tied to ground the ACR will open, no charging from alternator.

As others have said make sure that cable from the start battery is above 13 volts ( for 90 sec) or 13.5 volts for 30 secs. Also it is important that the house battery is not below 9.6 V or you may have under-voltage lock out.

-greg
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Old 11-24-2019, 03:41 PM   #10
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Garage
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ches-7991.html

If you haven't read this yet, it's a must read.
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