Let's talk Security

[charlie56]

Originally Posted by Jammyauto

I found an alarm system about a year ago that had a small button that you could push in the event of a carjacking that had a timer built in. It would shut the car down in a preprgramed amount of time. Like say 10 minutes. The idea was to let the criminal get safely away from you but not far enough away that you could not find the vehicle quickly. I'll do some more searching on the net and see if I can't find the company that made the problem.

The alarm system that Rob (SMB) is installing for me has the following option, however Rob says he won't energize it. Not quite sure why but I may have someone else do it later. The following is from the Compustar owners manual.

Anti Jacking Mode
The CompuStar systems have a built in mode that would require you to keep your remote separate from your key chain. This feature also requires additional labor. Please consult your installer for more details.
The Anti Jacking mode allows you to safely disable your vehicle once a thief has driven off with your property. If you are car jacked and still have your remote, you can panic the system by holding button IV
down for 4 seconds. The siren will sound for 30 seconds and the motor of the vehicle will shut down.

[sdwindansea]

Originally Posted by jage

Clearly if the vehicle is running the power lock is no protection, what happens if you pull the Ravelco while the vehicle is running?

I just talked to Ravelco and asked them this question. They can wire the device in one of two ways that affect pulling the plug while the vehicle is running. The first method doesn't kill the motor. It just won't restart after the engine hasn been turned off. The second method will kill the motor when the plug is pulled which is their recommended option and the one I would go with.

[Jeffrey]

I suppose that would only work if you are standing there watching the thief drive your rig away. What about the range of the fob?

[charlie56]

Originally Posted by Jeffrey

I suppose that would only work if you are standing there watching the thief drive your rig away. What about the range of the fob?

Yeah, but most importantly you also have to have to remember not to give the fob to the jacker. The fob I am getting has a 6,000 ft range.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by sdwindansea

I just talked to Ravelco and asked them this question. They can wire the device in one of two ways that affect pulling the plug while the vehicle is running. The first method doesn't kill the motor. It just won't restart after the engine hasn been turned off. The second method will kill the motor when the plug is pulled which is their recommended option and the one I would go with.

Mine's wired to instantly kill the motor if the Ravelco key is pulled.

BTW, when I was in San Diego a couple of weeks ago on business, I saw two SMBs. One was a burgundy/maroon color. Very nice, but no doubt it would absorb a lot of heat. This was before I had my SMBForum cards printed up.


Herb

[JoeyNick]

Reviving an old thread...

A thief tried to break into my van last night -- that's what I get for visiting a friend in NYC with the van...

They tried a screwdriver into the rear door lock. No success but they messed up the lock. Then, they hit the side cargo door with the screwdriver into the door lock with success and damaging the surrounding sheet metal in the process of prying. Thankfully, the alarm scared them away and, as far as I can tell, they didn't get anything. (Not that there's really anything to take besides some food and clothes.)

But the damage is done and I'm trying to figure out my repair / upgrade options pretty quickly. I'm going to see if I can upgrade the rear license plate bucket to the post 2008 model, which is supposed to be higher security but it really depends on price / availability.

My mechanic recommended to omit the side door keyhole altogether, which I'm seriously considering. Does anybody know if there is an aftermarket security plate that can cover this area?

I'm open to other options, except the large hockey puck type work van locks. Please chime in.

Thanks.

[jage]

Since you don't really need the side lock why not put another cylinder in but not connect it. You get the look of OEM but the thug wastes their time trying to pop it instead of moving on to the front doors or a window.

[JoeyNick]

Jage, that's not a bad idea. Do you know if the internal door lock levers need to be on the cylinder in order for the door to function properly?

[jage]

I doubt it- haven't been in any late model doors, but not much has probably changed. You should have a rod going from the lock cylinder arm to the actual locking mechnaism (and another from the locking motor) that you can pull a clip off or two off and remove.

[JoeyNick]

While I'm doing my research, I figured I'd share some items that might be of use / interest to the forum members:

http://www.cargovanlocks.com
Specifically:
http://www.cargovanlocks.com/cargolo...epartmentId=84

Wolo door lock guard:
http://www.buyautotruckaccessories.com/ ... or-plates/

TufLoc
http://www.esmet.com/models.html

Overland Hardware door hasp:
http://overlandhardware.com/protect.html

Cargo Lock:
http://www.cargolock.com/data/ford/ford ... g_door.pdf

Wolf Bolt:
http://wolfvansecurity.com/product/deadbolt.htm

Jimmy Jammers aren't yet available for the Econoline but hopefully someday...
http://www.jimmijammer.com/Product,%20JJ.htm

Plus one foreign company that's really making headway in this arena, although they don't have a market for the Econoline so, no products for most of us:
http://www.vangadgets.co.uk/pro-plate-v ... guards.htm

No luck finding a cleaner looking door cylinder security cover or the new style (2008+) rear license plate bucket online, so far...