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Old 06-18-2018, 04:56 PM   #11
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Yeah, bars are bent. Can be straightened as above, but they’ll often bend back again. Best thing to do is remove them and sleeve them.. insert smaller tube in the straight part of the bars, doubling the strength.

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Old 06-18-2018, 06:59 PM   #12
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I haven't posted pics of the "straightening apparatus" I used to get my crossbars a bit better aligned, but will try to do so sometime in the next day or so.

It worked pretty good! Used a high-lift jack from Harbor Freight and a random collection of heavy-duty U-bolts/hardwood shims to yank the crossbars back straight(er) than before.

But rallypanam is right ---
--- once they're bent, they're kinda gonna always stay a little bit bent unless you pull 'em out and sleeve 'em. Someone's mentioned taking 'em out and flipping 'em over, but if you're gonna take 'em out in the first place, you'd be crazy to not do it right and put some chrome-moly sleeves inside each of 'em too.

Here's the forum thread where the means of straightening the crossbars is discussed/shown. (I'm due to update that thread with some pics of my straightening process.....)

Bent Penthouse Top Bows
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...-bows-885.html

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Old 06-18-2018, 09:32 PM   #13
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Yep, flip em and sleeve em. You don't have to remove the top. You can brace the 4 corners and pull each one at once I think. I've done it when I did have a top removed. You can dig around in my builds as well and find it done.

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Old 06-20-2018, 09:30 AM   #14
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Awesome advice ya'll. I will straighten them using the above linked method.Thanks so much. A couple more questions for ya'll. It seems like the front is super tight, would bending the bars back fix this? and I guessing since I bent then trying to raise the roof with kayaks on top that this is not good to go? This leaves me a bit disappointed because when traveling to a kayak destination i would like to stop and camp without having to unload everything, only to reload in the morning. Would re-enforcing with the cro-mo let me raise the penthouse with gear on top? Thanks
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:39 AM   #15
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Yes, to an extent. I found that with about #150 on the roof I just couldn't lift it any more. Sure, if you're able to lift it you can actually lift it but the whole mechanism is pretty shaky at this point. It will want to teeter-totter from side to side and much worse if you're not level or in the wind. You're simply playing games with physics at that point.

What is the total weight of your kayaks, gear, rack, and anything else on the roof?
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Old 06-20-2018, 09:45 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by ricky boof View Post
Would re-enforcing with the cro-mo let me raise the penthouse with gear on top? Thanks

Sure...really depends on what wall thickness cro-mo tubing you use...The thicker the better. You need 3/4" OD......looks like wall thickness up to 3/16" (.188) is readily available.


Here is the link for what McMaster sells; you may also be able to source this locally.


https://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-tubing/=1dd8x2l
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Old 06-20-2018, 10:09 AM   #17
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ok, cool. All good to know. I think I'm gonna start by straightening them. How big of deal is it to remove the bows? and vids or pics of anybody doing that?

I would usually be travelling with three kayaks and three paddles up there. Probably in the 100-120# range.
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Old 07-05-2018, 10:50 AM   #18
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Boywonder won't black pipe work for him as well? I believe it is slightly thicker than standard pipe! Although it is a welded seam, for this application black pipe is readily available at any home improvement store for those that are unfamiliar with Chrome Moly!
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:34 PM   #19
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Boywonder won't black pipe work for him as well? I believe it is slightly thicker than standard pipe! Although it is a welded seam, for this application black pipe is readily available at any home improvement store for those that are unfamiliar with Chrome Moly!


No it won't.....


Pipe OD's and ID's are different than tubing....so that's the first challenge.


Schedule 40 pipe is as follows...size is based on ID, not OD.


Pipe size:


1/2" has 1/2" ID and .840" OD


3/4" has 3/4" ID and 1.050" OD


The welded seam would be the second challenge. Pounding DOM seamless tubing into bent bars will be enough of a challenge on it's own.


...and if you are going to go thru the aggravation of removing the cross bars, use cro-mo tubing.....yield strength of cro-mo is around 70,000 psi vs low carbon steel at 40,000 psi.


If you choose to use low carbon steel go up a couple of wall thicknesses.


Seamless Cro-Mo DOM tubing is readily available from McMaster-Carr
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Old 07-05-2018, 03:26 PM   #20
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Agreed I just was thinking not everyone has access to metal supply house but every town has an Ace, Tractor Supply or Big Brand improvement store for quick shopping. I have used pipe for different projects but obviously never for any suspension set ups. If the size was right I think it would be a reasonable alternative.
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