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Old 05-19-2019, 01:24 PM   #1
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Unhappy with the $700 I spent insulating

Hey all, so I recently insulated the entire inside of my van. I spent about $700 buying thinsulate and minicell products from Hein. Whatever he recommended, I purchased. He also recommended that I buy Frostking from Lowes to do the driver and passenger area floor.

I was mainly interested in sound deadening because the engine noise from my rig is extremely loud. After all of the time energy and expense...It doesn't sound any quieter. I recently compared it to a 2006 SMB diesel and the difference was pretty staggering given the amount of money and time I put into this. Does anyone have any suggestions what I can do to deaden the engine noise?

Back Floors- minicell on the floors in the back (cutting out and putting one layer in each of the recessed grooves and a full layer over the top of that. Then I did 3/4" Birch plywood on top of that.

Driver and Passenger floor- Frostking on the floors with stock carpet and padding over the top.

Dog house, engine compartment firewall and under the hood-Thinsulate Au4002-5. this was recommended by Hein for these areas. However the insulation actually melted inside the dog house... see pictures to follow.

Front Door panels and any trim panel that could be removed- Thinsulate SM440L

All of the walls and ceiling in the back area-Thinsulate SM600L

Removed and replaced any damaged door gaskets- Inserted surgical tubing into gaskets for better seal.

I will attach some pics to follow.
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:35 PM   #2
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pics of insulation process

Treated all of POR 15 then bought plastic grommets from ACE to fill any holes in floor that I was n't using for seats, then insulated
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_4185.jpg   IMG_4275.jpg   IMG_4277.jpg   IMG_4280.jpg   IMG_4324.jpg  

IMG_4839.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:36 PM   #3
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#1 cause of engine noise is a poorly seated ending cover. If there's ANY gap at all, no amount of sound reduction materials will help.

On my van, I found that I get a better seal if I latch the upper latches first, then to the floor latches next.

Also on my van, the previous owner (Enterprise) had added a body filler joint along a section of the pax side floor, where it just wasn't a good fit.

Also, on the 6.0 diesels, pilot injection was originally used to greatly reduce the "clatter" inherit with diesels, but later firmware updates reduced or turned off pilot injection to reduce the duty cycle on the injectors in an attempt to reduce failures.
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:39 PM   #4
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pics of front are insulation

Here are just a few pics of some of the panels I insulated as well as the flooring and door panel. Also, the last two show the melting caused in the doghouse. Damn sideways pics make it hard to tell whats going on.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_4283.jpg   IMG_4284.jpg   IMG_4307.jpg   IMG_4841.jpg   IMG_4335.jpg  

IMG_4336.jpg  
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carringb View Post
#1 cause of engine noise is a poorly seated ending cover. If there's ANY gap at all, no amount of sound reduction materials will help.

On my van, I found that I get a better seal if I latch the upper latches first, then to the floor latches next.

Also on my van, the previous owner (Enterprise) had added a body filler joint along a section of the pax side floor, where it just wasn't a good fit.

Also, on the 6.0 diesels, pilot injection was originally used to greatly reduce the "clatter" inherit with diesels, but later firmware updates reduced or turned off pilot injection to reduce the duty cycle on the injectors in an attempt to reduce failures.
I've uninstalled and re-installed the engine doghouse cover 4 or 5 times. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but it hasn't helped. I'll probably give it another shot when I have time tomorrow.
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:26 PM   #6
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The way your downpipe looks, it's a wonder the Thinsulate didn't catch fire
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Old 05-19-2019, 03:35 PM   #7
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Not trying to be a smart ass or anything but is there a reason why you went with thinsulate vs a dedicated sound deadening material? I think the adhesion to the metal makes a big difference in how the sound interacts with the material vs just stuffing in filler.
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Old 05-19-2019, 05:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfvan View Post
...Damn sideways pics make it hard to tell whats going on.
I've discovered Pic's will always post correctly if you "crop" them ever so slightly before downloading them (Tip i received long time ago from another member here)
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Old 05-19-2019, 07:23 PM   #9
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Not trying to be a smart ass or anything but is there a reason why you went with thinsulate vs a dedicated sound deadening material? I think the adhesion to the metal makes a big difference in how the sound interacts with the material vs just stuffing in filler.
I researched and was told that ďHein was the manĒ when it came to insulation. I got so overwhelmed by all of the different ideas and options on various forums, blogs and you tube channels that once I spoke to him I just trusted what he suggested. He told me that thinsulate was an outstanding sound deadening material. I live in CA, temperature and climate are a minor minor concern. My real concern was noise. I told him other products I was considering quiet ride and dynamat and he said thinsulate would be better.
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Old 05-19-2019, 08:33 PM   #10
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Insulation and sound deadener are a bit different. I am not a diesel owner but I have worked on a friend's SMB and the difference before and after Quietride installation was very noticeable.

I've heard nothing but good about Hein's insulation products for insulation but quietening a diesel beast is a little bit of a different project.

https://www.quietride.com/
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