Water damage to panels used in Sportsmobile interior

[grinnelljd]

Originally Posted by moorefc

You have a number of good inputs, but I wouldnt waste your time with PVA...To seal the edges use a thin epoxy such as west system. Look up PVA, and you will find lots of info such as (thesawguy.com)

Types of PVA Glue

• ​PVA - Polyvinyl Acetate: This type of PVA glue is used for book binding, box sealing, and used in paints. It's typically white in color and dries clear. It's permanent and remains flexible after drying, rather than becoming brittle over time.
• PVA Wood Glue - This glue is a yellow-based glue, used for wood-to-wood joining. This type of glue absorbs into the wood you put it on. This glue holds even better if you clamp the wood while the glue is drying completely.
• PVA Water Resistant Glue- This glue resists mildew and moisture, which are two major benefits of using this particular type of PVA glue. Do not confuse water-resistant with waterproof. This glue, if submerged in water, will not work as well. However, because this work is water-resistant, it can withstand inclement weather of all types. Titebond II and III are good choices for this type of glue.

I have experienced Sportsmobiles with MDF and the newer plywood like material (SMB Austin identified their source as Core-lite, from Dicor Products in 2015) the product may have sold and renamed as Dicor no longer lists it, but I tried to source the material from them in 2015 and they referred me back to SMB. Both have issues with end grain moisture swelling, the latter, much less. Best solution is to remove the panels and epoxy seal the sensitive edges...silicon, even on both floor sides won't be anywhere near perfect as a patch...Under t-molding you might get away with PVA...Obviously one can compromise in non water exposed areas, SMB uses fasteners, not glue generally and the panels are not that difficult to remove. Pics showing some swelling of outer laminate are from non edge sealed, RTV sealed (and RTV resealed) Core-lite. Too bad SMB doesn't seal the edges prior to install, but that costs $$....

Your van will last many years, and, when you wash the floor.............

Thanks for the info on the Core-lite. I found it odd that Sportsmobile seemed reluctant to provide a brand name to me for the panels they use.

After some testing, I've opted not to use the PVA glue at the seams of the loncoin flooring and panels. I have a wide assortment of PVA glues as I use them often, but as the source you provided points out, those that are waterproof don't really dry clear. I didn't like the look of the yellow seam using the waterproof PVA I had (Titebond II) so I ordered some Loctite waterproof silicone to seal the seams with. I think I'll use the yellow waterproof PVA glue for sealing the edges under the T molding such as the edge of my table top; I won't see the glue there.

I agree that removing the panels and sealing the cut edges is the best soution, but that would involve a fair bit of labor. I'd essentially have to dissasemble the interior of my van piece by piece. While the panels are simply connected together via angle braces and screws, I worry I'd introduce squeaks and rattles and possible compromise the tightness of the assembled cabinets if I used the same screw holes during reasembly. I'll use the silicone to seal the seams and hope it is a good compromise.

Yeah, it sure would be nice if Sportsmobile elected to seal the cut edges before they used the panels in their cabinets. I saw that there is some nice edging tape which you can apply with a hot iron that melts the glue on the edging tape and creates a waterproof barrier. It appears to be quick (no drying time) and easy to use and would make these panels vastly more water resistant that they are now. But as you pointed out, that would increase their costs.

[jrobe]

We have had this same problem with our maple cabinet and door panels. It takes very little water to start to see bubbling followed by delamination of the material. There was clearly no attempt made to seal the edges during construction. I have had to use caulk type sealants to try to stop the damage. On our bathroom door, I finally had to scrape and sand it flat and the put on a coat of epoxy sealant to seal it more permanently which darkened it. Of course, we are obsessive in keeping water off the panels now.

Do people have this same issue with the other colored panel material including white?

That being said, we have had almost no other problems with our SMB North van. I will probably have them build us another one some day but try to use better cabinet material. I would choose better construction material if it was an option.

[N147JK]

Originally Posted by shadetreevanman

cut out some replacement quality plywood panels

Yes sir. Either solid wood or hardwood plywood is the right material for the job, finished to take on water (polyurethane, varnish, or lacquer). Vinyl covered MDF panels are not designed to get wet, or even take much wear-and-tear. I don't see the benefit of the "plywood core" material SMB uses - it does not address the use-case problems. Does SMB offer real wood cabinetry as an option?

[doublevan2]

I had my drop down couch panel (electrical access) replaced with 5/8 birch ply - as the previous owner somehow must have stepped on that piano hinged panel and ripped out the piano hinge screws from the MDF. Real ugly outcome ! I had my carpenter attach 60 lb round magnets to the wood panel - and attach some large round washers to the framing of the couch - to "grab" the magnets when in place - 3 magnets and 3 washers (cost at $250 bucks but worth it) - and takes a pretty good pull to fully remove the panel - and then I just place it onto the couch/bed - or place it outside the van if I need to work down under. I'll try so add some photos in the next day or so. My old panel becomes a good work surface in my garage. The carpenter painted the birch panel with a grey paint to "match" the other interior grey cabinets - its almost like a truck bed liner paint - although smooth finish and scratch resistant in nature.

I also learned from my first SMB (2005) to use a fine bead of clear silicone caulk all around the "T" moldings installed around all sinks and drop down door panels on the doors to help keep prevent water intrusion. Just my "two cents" of experience !

[N147JK]

Originally Posted by doublevan2

I also learned from my first SMB (2005) to use a fine bead of clear silicone caulk all around the "T" moldings installed around all sinks and drop down door panels on the doors to help keep prevent water intrusion. Just my "two cents" of experience !

T-moldings are usually just pressed into a groove machined into the edge of the panel - normally no glue is used. So one should be able to just pull it out. If mine, I'd do that and saturate the edge of the wood with 2 coats of very thin epoxy. Once dry (1 or 2 days), re-insert the molding.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by LeeBrace

I agree, it would be ideal if Sportsmobile took preemptive measures to seal the cut edges of the panels.

It would be even more ideal if Sportsmobile would use a moisture rated plywood or other product........even if they need to charge another $1500 per van or whatever.

[doublevan2]

How about marine ply - at 3/8 inch if its made or available ! Or maybe some type honeycombed water resistant ply - much lighter in weight - again - if available ?