Winterizing guru wanted

[jage]

Originally Posted by ANZAC

Where is the hot water heater bypass?

Do you leave the anode rod out all winter? What if you get <rodent/insect/slime/moss/rust> in there?

No I just put the old one back in. They last more than a year with my use, it's just good practice (I've heard) to replace.

[Carl]

talk to me about this "rod" you're replacing or removing?

with my stock water set up, explain.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by Carl

talk to me about this "rod" you're replacing or removing?

with my stock water set up, explain.

I believe they're talking about the sacrificial anode that goes in the water heater. I didn't realize there was one in RV water heaters.

Because of dissimilar metals in water heater construction, you get electrolysis, the passiing of current between different metals as they try to achieve eletrical balance. This involves the consuming of the one metal that passes to the other. By deliberately placing a more reactive metal in the water heater, the anode sacrifices itself rather than any of the metals that the water heater is constructed of.

BTW, just last week I ordered a new radiator cap for my Bronco with an anode on it. An engie cooling system is just a different version of a water heater.


Herb

[MikewTV]

Hey, I have always assumed this just goes for the propane HW heaters. My 110v doesnt appear to have one. I hope i am not missing something.

[Carl]

anyone who can tell me how to blow lines out? connect compressor to what? I do not want to blow my sytem up!

[daveb]

I think Jage had a good thread on that...I think he showed a fitting. Don't recall how well it worked. I'd anti-freeze the system then blast whats left out.

[Scalf77]

A couple of options at Camping world http://www.campingworld.com/category/winterizing/186. You can find this stuff at just about any RV shop. Also do a search on the Web for Winterizing your RV. There are plenty of hits such as http://www.thecampingsource.com/item.../category.aspx or http://www.rverscorner.com/painless.html. On the SMB the main thing is to look for the low point drains. It really depend on your rig for where those are. There is usually one below the water entrance and for sure if you have water go from ones side of the van to the other there will be one on that side also.

Also I think the procedure Jage used was right in line with others on the web.

Greg

[ANZAC]

I did the Jage method:
- bypassed hot water heater by turning the two valves on the back of it
- got a cheapo schraeder->RV water inlet fitting from the hardware store
- adjusted my compressor regulator to 50 PSI
- connected compressor to fitting
- slowly opened and closed each faucet
- removed water heater anode and drained tank (drove around for a bit so it would slosh out, shop vac didnt get any more out)
- dropped some RV anti-freeze into gray water trap/tank

[Ketcham]

Was just blowing out my pipes with a compressor and the cold side worked fine. Shower was fine. Steps for the heating was leaving the faucet open on hot and hot side to the espar open. When I started gently compressing the espar was hissing itself. First sounded like a flute then just a hiss. My question: Is this normal or did I screw the pooch? Is there a pressure release valve. It may be that something could already broken, since I was cold weather camping (heat side closed and drained to gravity). I just wanted to clear any water from any low points. I then opened the heat drain on the side of the van and air hissed out of there instead of the espar unit.

Now that the system is dry, I will not deal with any issues until March. How do you test to see if there is compromise, especially between engine coolant and drinking water? If the system holds pressure, everything is a-okay? The unit is from 2010 where the combined the Espar flat plate and heater into one unit.

Any thoughts?