Pretty certain a few or more here can share a bit of real-world advice and experience with something I'm considering----adding an inverter and possibly upgrading my current 5.4 stock alternator.

Need to continuously power a 13 amp tool for up to 30 minutes, according to most calculations I need about a 2000 watts continuous rated device. Top quality that's heavy on quality even if a bit light on bells and whistles, literally and figuratively. While price isn't the deciding factor I'd want something of high value; good or better quality at a fair price.

During use the engine would be idling with little to nothing else drawing current past normal vehicle operation. My thought here is instead of running the single starting battery down only to recharge during normal driving having a steady input of current might benefit battery longevity.

For that reason if its a good idea to upgrade the stock alternator to something with more output that's completely within reason as well.

Chances are this would see infrequent use but even so bargain gear on the cheap is not my MO. I've seen prices ranging from $259 to over $650 for the 2000-2200 watt types, neither of which are out of consideration.

I'd prefer to not add a second battery as I don't think my use really warrants that, not now anyway. So anyone whose been there, done this would love specific brands and/or model numbers of inverters in actual use.

TIA!

A 13A tool at 120V is 130A at 12V (keeping the math simple), so one average sized battery will likely need the current output of an alternator to augment some current, especially for 30 minutes. The next question may be "what rpm do I need for rated alternator output?".....or what is the alternator output at idle?

....Use fat cables to the inverter.....

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2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element

You didn't tell us what type of vehicle you have but "Ambulance prep packages" have some of what you are looking for.

My Dodge Ram Promaster came with a 220 amp alternator and there is a feature code XF6 that does "Voltage Monitoring and Auto Idle Up control". I think you can get the feature on 2014 or later RAM's but my dealer is still looking for the feature so it is not well known.

A big alternator, Auto idle up, big wire, and an inverter like the ones used by Sportsmobile, and you should be good to go.

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2015 Promaster Sportsmobile
KB2ZE
Old retired IBM Engineer

My charging is better than stock with change to Premier Power Welder unit (in rear bumper), that came with a high output commercial type unit and much better industrial belt. It was a tight fit replacing stock, and had to clock it, but works great.

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carl

2010 SMB
www.xtrememobileadventures.com

What is the tool you are using, it could change recommendation of inverter?

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-greg
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"Goldilocks" 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended 3.5 EcoBoost AWD Homebuilt

Driving a 2003 E250 EB with 5.4 engine----completely stock including original alternator---130 amps I believe?

The tool essentially is a Milwaukee Sawzall, model 6523-20. Its a 13 amp 120 VAC used to extract or cut out urethane set windshields.

I'm fairly competent wiring, always defer to what's safest and best for the application regardless the cost.

Hope me filling in the blanks helps a bit more?!

All motors lose efficiency with modified-sine-wave power. I think about 20%. Would it still work for you if its 20% less powerful? Keep in mind that the lost efficiency is rejected as heat in the motor, so for continuous use, you might start burning up motors. For this application, a pure-sine-wave inverter might be a good idea, but they cost much more.

I have a 2000 watt inverter in mine, wire directly to the factory AUX battery, so I don't have to worry about no-start conditions. For high-loads I do idle the van (since it's usually used for several hours), and it keeps up fine with the stock alternator, for the most part. It uses about 0.7 GPH with the inverter on, so total fuel use isn't too bad.

BTW - this is my go-to site for inverters: http://www.donrowe.com/Default.asp

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2000 E450 dually V10 wagon

CarringB you raise an excellent point, one that essentially kills this as an idea.

As I think more on this in all reality need is nearly non-existent, perhaps once a year it would really really be needed. Given the potential damage or over heating of the tool itself along with the cost of a pure sine-wave 2000 watt inverter I can buy a Honda generator and have about the same invested.

The generator could find duty around the house during power outages (once or twice a year at most) and having already used one know it will power the tool with no problems.

So I thank y'all for contributing----in a backward way its been resolved.

How about a cordless sawsall and a couple of spare batteries?

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2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element

The nature of the work eliminates that idea even though there are cordless tools available for my tasks. I want/prefer the reliability of a 120 VAC power source whether its from the utility or a generator.

As I rethink all this I'll pretty much be able to forego the idea of "portable" power all the way around. If the need were more I'd spring for some method but once or twice a year just doesn't justify the expense of having that convenience.