Which fridge do you have or have you had and what're your experiences?

What fridges would you choose if you were ready for a new one? Make/Model #

AC vs DC

Be detailed as I've never ever owned one.

Also, where's the best place to buy!?

I'm on the market. Please help.

I love pictures. Inside and out if you have em.

We got a TruckFridge and are very pleased with it, http://www.truckfridge.com/site/tf49.html?imz_st. It sips power and is 12V only. They also make a 120/12V unit as well. Bought it directly from the company. It was very easy to install.

__________________
Larrie
Read detailed trip reports, see photos and videos on my travel blog, luinil.com.
Current van: 2002 Ford E350 extended body camper with Colorado Camper Van pop top and Agile Offroad 4WD conversion.

Which one did your get? Pros/cons?

How much $? There's no prices on their site...

The TF 49. 12V only.

__________________
Larrie
Read detailed trip reports, see photos and videos on my travel blog, luinil.com.
Current van: 2002 Ford E350 extended body camper with Colorado Camper Van pop top and Agile Offroad 4WD conversion.

There are prices on their site.

Found em. I was originally looking under the products tab. Found another tab. That's a nice looking fridge and a nice price. Any other reviews?

Bee: Are you looking for a side door type or a top loading cooler type? Most manufacturers make both styles.

Some brands are Truckfridge, Engel, ARB, Vitrifrigo, Isotherm, Dometic and Edgestar

The truckfridge, Isotherm and Vitrifrigo are 99% identical.....of the 3, Truckfridge is the budget line. It's mostly trim level and features that differentiates them. All 3 sizes of the TF use the same compressor and other refrigerant parts so the power consumption is very similar (a stuffed larger fridge will still use a little more juice than a stuffed smaller unit.)

I have a truckfridge TF49 AC/DC and I happy with it...although so far, it's only been operated in my garage....it'll be bolted in the van by the end of next week since I heading to Moab/Sedona for a week.

There are cheaper fridges that use Peltiers (Thermoelectric) for cooling; these are quite inefficient. I would recommend a compressor type. The TF/Isotherm/Vitrifrigo all use a Danfoss/Secop compressor which is somewhat of an industry standard. Engels have a proprietary compressor that is also well regarded.

__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element

Don't forget National Luna. It is large, and extremely efficient but I think they only have top loading ones? At least that is what I got.

Disclaimer - I haven't actually used mine yet, but the specs beat all the others I could find when I was shopping, and chest style is much more efficient as far as not letting the cold air fall out when you open it and having better use of space.

http://nationalluna.com/NLR65.htm

__________________
2014 Black Ford E-350 V10 QuadVan getting built in Spring
2010 Ford Raptor 6.2L

Thanks for the review! Good information. I believe I'll go with the TF65. I always appreciate more space. They're sold out right now but I spoke with them and they should have about 100 more by this Friday or next Monday.

Now I have to think house batteries! Still need to know how to do my set up. I want deep cycle and have been told to get 2 6V golf cart batteries. I want solar panel(s) on the roof. This van will be a daily driver for me. Also only d/c and will use small inverter I'd need an AC outlet. Only need to power the TF65, lighting, charging electronics such as iPad and iPhones. Also need to choose solar charger, isolator, and battery monitor. So many different opinions out there that it's slowing me down.

These days there is no real advantage with going with 2 6V batteries. From a failure standpoint, lose one and you are screwed. At least with a pair of 12V batteries, you have a chance at continuing on with one in the event of a single point failure.

I would consider one or two 12V deep cycle AGM batteries, the bigger the better. Your usable capacity will be around 1/2 of the AH rating. So if you get 300 amp-hrs worth of batteries, then you have 150AH available to use (maybe a bit more) before excessively discharging the batteries.

For solar controllers, do a search here. There are two basic flavors: basic PWM (pulse width modulation) or or MPPT (Max peak power tracking). MPPT costs more than PWM, is slightly more efficient, and allows the use of panels with voltage ratings higher than 12V.

Another consideration is surface mount vs flush mount for the controller.

For panels, besides voltage and power rating, they come in two flavors: Monocrystalline or Polycrystalline panels. Monocrystalline is older tech, a bit more $$ and slightly more efficient in some light conditions. Either will work fine with either controller technology above.

There is lots of info here (and on the bigger interweb-thingy) about controllers and panels. Do a search/be a sponge.

One more thing: If your batteries and controller are mounted inside you don't really need a temp sensor for the batteries, since they are both at roughly the same temp. If the controller is inside and the Batts are outside a temperature sensor stuck on a battery and connected to the controller will be easier on the batteries at some temperature extremes. the temp sensors are usually an optional accessory when you buy the controller.

__________________
2008 E350 RB passenger 4WD SMB penthouse
2013 KTM 350 EXC
2008 KTM 250 XCF-W
2003 Honda Element