I have a slight warp in my front rotors, anyone have a suggestion for a better cooling rotor?

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2000 Ford RB30 PH 2WD -- Eagle Rock California

Are you sure the rotor is warped? Is it a pulsation in the pedal while stopping, or you measured a warped rotor?

If you measured a warped rotor (i.e. runout = 0.015") replace them.

If it is a pulsation in the pedal it is more likely brake pad deposits on the disc. This happens with heavy brake use and then stopping with the pad in one place on the disc. Due to the heat, some transfer of material from the pad to the disc can occur. If that happens you can take some 400-1000 grit Wet/Dry sandpaper and thoroughly sand the disc to remove the pad material that you can neither see nor feel.

I try to use the least brake I can, relying on compression braking and downshifting as much as possible. And iff I have hot brakes and get stuck at a light, I use the parking brake and release the service brakes.

Mike

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Alaska to Key West, Labrador and more
Prostate cancer survivor. See Thread Prostate cancer and Sportsmobiles
2015 VW GTI 2020 Fiat 124 Spider
2012 E250 Hitop camper

Thanks Mike,

Yea i am getting a pulsating, I have been commuting lately so lots of stop and go traffic. Seems to pulsate at low speed. Ill try your suggestion

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2000 Ford RB30 PH 2WD -- Eagle Rock California

On my empty 2WD 99 cargo van I installed cryo treated slotted rotors and Hawk LTS brake pads.

For your rig:

Hawk LTS pads p/n HB334Y.736
Stoptech Slotted/cryo left rotor 126.65046CSL
Stoptech Slotted/cryo righ rotor 126.65046CSR
or
Stoptech Slotted (no cryo) left rotor 126.65046SL
Stoptech Slotted (no cryo) right rotor 126.65046SR

I put in new wheel bearings and synthetic grease while I was there.

Slotted rotors help remove gas build up under heavy braking.
Cryo treatment helps reduce cracks due to heat.

Made a huge difference, I used to tow up and down this very steep twisty hill for several miles. After this upgrade the brakes were as good at the bottom as when I started at the top.

All the above available at TireRack.com.

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Sportsmobile-less.

"A job worth doing is worth doing at least twice."

Or upgrade to 2008 or newer brakes. Search the forum for several threads on this. Pretty easy and not that terribly expensive all things considered.

Aren't they 8 x 170?

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Sportsmobile-less.

"A job worth doing is worth doing at least twice."

No. All E Series are 8 on 6.5.

I have take off bits from a 2014 with 1,200 miles on them available.

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Four time Baja 1000 winner, four time Baja 500 winner. Solo'ed the Baja 1000 to LaPaz/Cabo twice.
4-Wheeling since 1972, Desert Racing since 1989.

AgileOffRoad.com

Do they require a larger wheel?

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Sportsmobile-less.

"A job worth doing is worth doing at least twice."

What year is your rig? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but if your wheels are currently 16", swapping to newer brake bits would mean having to swap over to 17" wheels to make the clearance for the larger rotors, I went with frozen rotors slotted/cryo up front with the hawk pads all around, had a local machine shop drill them out to 8X6.5, nice upgrade. I guess a few ways to go....

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'03 Ford E350 7.3L Diesel
(de)SMB'd Custom RB-50
Quigley 4X4 w/Deavers & Agile Offroad's R.I.P. package
CCV High Profile Pop Top

Ford has always delivered the E Series with 16" wheels. Bigger rotors, bigger calipers, bigger pads - same wheels.

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Four time Baja 1000 winner, four time Baja 500 winner. Solo'ed the Baja 1000 to LaPaz/Cabo twice.
4-Wheeling since 1972, Desert Racing since 1989.

AgileOffRoad.com