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Old 02-13-2010, 12:16 PM   #81
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Re: Hal The Van

A posting about Contact Cement.
This info refers to the DAP brand of Weldwood Contact Cement.
I went to buy another quart of contact cement at the local Ace Hardware store and they only had the "Original" formula not the "Nonflammable" formula which I had been using.

Nonflammable on the left in the following three pictures.


The first quart of contact cement I had been using came from someone who no longer needed it so I hadn't paid any real attention before to the formulations. It just worked. Once I got to looking at the new quart it's obvious from just the lids that there's some important differences.


Color, consistency and amount of fumes is also different.


The Nonflammable formula is as thin as water while the original is thicker. Original formula puts off a lot more vapors.

On both cans it reads that they work on foam so I went ahead and used the new original formula can.
I'm gluing fabric to the foam backed fiberboard (will have a separate post on this).
You can see what happened below.


The original formula is causing the foam to dissolve.
Have you seen how Alien blood goes through the floor of the spaceship Nostromo? Something like that.
The previous picture is from last night while still wet.
This is what it looks like today after drying.


So Lesson Learned is to keep the Original formula away from extruded foam. Only use the Nonflammable formula when gluing to foam. Went to Lowe's this morning for a new can of the Nonflammable formula.
I will be using the can of Original formula when it comes time to laminate van furniture so it won't go to waste.

Supplies:
Ace Hardware: Weldwood Original Formula Contact Cement - Qt - 12.99
Lowes: Weldwood Nonflammable Formula Contact Cement - Qt - 13.98

In case you're wondering how I used up the first quart so fast I have some advice. Don't rest your can of contact cement on the piece you're working on. If you shift the piece the can might spill. Or worse yet, take a header onto the floor. Yep, I knocked the whole can onto the floor where it landed, upside down of course.
On the bright side it was half empty. On the non-bright side it was half full. Take your pick

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Old 02-16-2010, 01:12 PM   #82
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Re: Hal The Van

First let's check with today's Ford van weather report:


Yep, still cold.
Because of the weather I'm not able to do as much on the van as I'd like so instead I've been looking ahead. The first piece of furniture I'm planning on making will be the sofa-bed. There are several design considerations with such limited space so I'll need some dimension information.

Here are some diagrams I've drawn up. The measurements are not extremely accurate. They are for general planning purposes not actual cutting of materials. None are to scale.
The floor measurements are of the wood layer I've installed, not the metal base layer.


The sofa-bed will sit behind the drivers seat so I'll need to know how close I can get to it.


Another consideration is height. Part of the Penthouse Top installation was the addition of a Metal Edge that runs along the top edge of the van wall. This edge sits lower than the original ceiling. Need info on it's height and placement. In this photo you can see the Metal Edge along with what I call the Box which is a structural component of the Penthouse top. All these measurements are with the top down. The Bucket is also of note.


Window behind the driver's seat.
The sofa-bed will sit in front of this window so it's height is important.


Cross section look at the wall.


The heights to the ceiling farther away from the wall. 16 1/2" measurements is at the floor.


Now for a self portrait.
I want the sofa seat to be as high as possible, for storage underneath, without hitting my head on the Metal Edge. I did "test sits" with different sized boxes and such and found that the Tidy Cat Bucket I'd been using as a work stool seems to be just about right.
So I'll plan on the sofa seat having the same height of around 14 1/2 inches from the floor. I'm 6' and that's what feels right for me. You should do your own "test sits" to see what you find to be comfortable.
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Old 02-17-2010, 09:46 AM   #83
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Re: Hal The Van

At the moment my sofa-bed plan looks like this.





This is just a general idea. Once I start to actually construct it the design will change. For instance I'll have to make modifications so it will fit over the wheel well. But you've got to start somewhere.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:19 PM   #84
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Re: Hal The Van

Are you looking for construction ideas for your bench?
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:42 PM   #85
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Re: Hal The Van

I'm always open to suggestions since I've never done this before. In my mind I have a plan how to proceed but I'm keeping it to myself. That's in case once I start to build it my ideas turn out to be .
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Old 02-18-2010, 03:42 AM   #86
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Re: Hal The Van

nice thread, pics, van, and build...blkjak .
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Old 02-18-2010, 05:15 AM   #87
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Re: Hal The Van

Looks good that bench, all you will need is a nifty slider system...
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:32 AM   #88
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Re: Hal The Van

@blkjak
Thanks Blkjak,
Haven't we met somewhere else?

@saabman
Quote:
all you will need is a nifty slider system...
Easier said than done. Since I've never seem a RV fold out bed in action I'll have to invent something instead of trying some reverse engineering. I came up with a a couple of real nifty designs. Problem is once you start to draw them in detail, nifty bangs up hard against practical.

I was trying to come up with new a solution when I remembered an ad from my Jr. Mad Scientist Catalog. So I went ahead and ordered a "Evil Floating Brain" (patent pending).


Boy, don't believe the ads for the "Evil Floating Brain". Totally impractical. It's every idea involves mini fusion reactors and laser cannons. It refuses to understand the concept, "Can't afford it with my buget!" Problem is once you cut the "Evil Floating Brain" out of it's plastic clamshell you can't return it.

Back to the drawing board. At the moment I'm leaning to using something similar to a clock escapement in form but not in function. There are clearance and weight issues with this design. The clearances I could solve with a scale model but that won't resolve the weight issue. I'm afraid I'm just going to have to start building it then test full size.

Now the "Evil Floating Brain", it insists I call it "Carl", keeps bugging me for something to do so I set it on the porta-potti issue. I just know his answer will involve a disintegrator ray.

Dave
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:53 AM   #89
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
Now the "Evil Floating Brain", it insists I call it "Carl", keeps bugging me for something to do so I set it on the porta-potti issue. I just know his answer will involve a disintegrator ray.
Try to remember to have adequate ventilation when using contact cement. The fumes can have consequences.
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:48 AM   #90
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Re: Hal The Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by WVvan
Easier said than done. Since I've never seem a RV fold out bed in action I'll have to invent something instead of trying some reverse engineering.
@WVvan - I was thinking of trying something like this:



Instead of sliding straight out, you would lift the front of the bench and pull it out - traveling at and arch until it's back down at the original height and extended out.

Basically, you would need a bent bar and some hinges. With precision bending, you could double up on the bent parts where my diagram only shows one. The bar itself could support the weight of the bed extension. You would need to countersink the bar so that the bed/bench platform rests nice and flat... I think it's do'able.

edit: I forgot to draw in or mention... Where the back of the bench hinges to the seat of the bench, there should be some form of connection at the ends (like a peg in a slot or a roller bar). This would prevent weight on the edge of the bed from making the back of the bed flip up. Not sure if that makes sense.
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