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Old 08-12-2007, 03:34 PM   #1
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Making the Rear Light 3 Way Switched

Project: Making the Rear Light 3 Way Switched
Problem: The rear light (in the "50") has two switches, one controls 2 of the 3 dome lights inside, the other switch the other. Alone or together reaching for one switch or the other may turn the light more on, or off depending.
Solution: Rewire so each switch changes the state of the light, on becomes off and vice versa with either switch thrown. (like a 3 way switch in a house)
Parts: 1 or 2 SPDT Switches the same size as stock, wire, 5 male ends, 2 female ends, a bit of electrical tape.
Notes: There is no need to remove the light fixture. The hardest part of the project is locating switches.


Before the project (above) the single light in the middle is controlled by the left switch and the outside two lights are controlled by the right switch.


Here is the wiring diagram, partially to have a plan and partially as a head check to visualize how this will work.


The two switches can be new or you can rebuild the original switches to be SPDT (see next segment). Here I used the left switch but the right one didn't work out, so I wound up using one original and one replacement.


Afterwards. The only real modification was to the male-double-female Y wire, as the replacement switch body was longer the original cuff on the connector pushed the wires into the light clip. Due to heat I decided to remake the Y:



When it's done you can't tell but now the function is much easier.

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Old 08-12-2007, 03:44 PM   #2
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Part Two: The switches


You can find or build switches, on the left is the original switch on the right the replacement.

My biggest problem was finding the switches. The original switches are SPST which means Single Pull Single Throw, and the switch is either on or off. It also means the tabs are either connected or not.

A SPDT switch means Single Pull Double Throw, which come in two main types- On - On and On - Off - On. For this project finding an SPDT On - On that was a rocker and fit back in the socket was essential. The basic functionality is that in either position the opposite tab is connected with the center tab.


Reassembled switches - Left: Replacement, Top Right: Original with tab salvaged from other original. Bottom Right: Other original casing with tabs from replacement.

I really liked the action on the original switches better, and noticed that the switch case had a hole that would make it a 3 prong, which I assumed would make it SPDT. On taking one apart I found this to be the case. I used the sliver tab from the other switch to make one original switch that was now SPDT.

Simply pulling the tab and replacing it in the new switch was enough, as it was all standard to the design.

The second original casing now needed two tabs. The best option without finding a source for the manufacturer (which I'd already tried) was to canabalize one of the new switches. The tabs are slightly different and so I tried to jury-rig something together by bending the center plate.



The final product worked until it was put in place, and the insides were hardly stable, so I eventually went with one original rebuilt switch and one replacement.



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Old 08-12-2007, 03:48 PM   #3
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Thoughts

I don't like putting what seems like a cheaper switch in (from the feel of the switch and taking it apart), but the action takes a back seat to having the light be easy to use now.

The depth of the switch (rocker-to-tabs) was greater on the replacment which pushed my wiring into potentially hot light contacts.

The whole thing is fairly simple, basically plugging in a few new parts, and you don't even have to take the light down.

Why they don't make them this way factory I can't possibly understand.
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:39 PM   #4
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I'm not entirely sure why this light isn't a low-power fluorescent like all the others. The 2-level brightness feature of the set of 3 incadescent bulbs hasn't been at all useful to me. I usually just turn on both switches, or a random one if I am feeling lazy.

-- Geoff
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:02 AM   #5
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Neat mod...

You should be able to use the SMB 2 way switches for the 3 way...a not commonly known approach is here.



Have you though of swapping the bulb for LED?

I noticed that my SMB gets really hot with all those light on and I try not to use all 3. ...But with LED + 3 way, I might mod them all.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmocken
I don't think that's really 3 way because both ends have to be closed. If you don't remember which one is closed (or if they are both open) you might be switching both at least once to get the light to come on.

Knowing my luck I'd open the closed end, then close the open end, think I'd got it backwards, roll over and open the closed end again. Hehe. I needed to make it idiot proof for myself.
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