Air Lockers, lsd, Detroit, truetrac advise needed - Page 3

MountainBikeRoamer · 09-06-2016, 05:18 PM

Okay, this is interesting:

No idea what the OP's axle configuration is....but it turns out the factory Dana 60 rear in my '95 E250 may actually already be a 35-spline. Just chatted with Derek at Dutchman Axles....when I mentioned that I'd been told my E250 had a 32-spline Dana 60 rear, he sent me back to do some more homework.

(A local ring/pinion/axle shop had confidently informed me that the axle in my '95 E250 was the 32-spline.....but now I'm not so sure.)

There ARE 32-spline rears running around in Econolines...however they appear to be Dana 70's --- and that would seem to be on the E350 models built between 1999 and 2010.

Yarghhh. A bit confused now.
Would gladly welcome the input of anyone who knows this topic a bit better and more firsthand.
(I'm still planning my rear LSD/locker diff solution too. Seriously hoping to go with a TrueTrac....but had been told it wasn't an option once already by some axle specialists.)

rltilley · 09-06-2016, 09:40 PM

I went with an ARB Air locker on the front with the stock LSD on the rear. This was what the orange Sportsmobile demo van had on it & they said it worked great on theirs. I haven't gone into any extreme conditions yet but I haven't had any issues in any snow or sand I've been in.

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MountainBikeRoamer · 09-06-2016, 10:27 PM

Okay!

Hey, lots of questions answered (and quality advice rendered!) by thoroughly reading this fairly-recent (April 2011) forum post about, more or less, the same topic.

Lockers vs. LSD vs. TrueTrac etc...examined for both front and rear applications, 2WD and/or 4WD.

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...-4x4-6206.html

(Btw -- Some mentioning in here of the TrueTrac diffs not being compatible with some of the factory E350 rear axles --- I'm guessing that's where the 32-spline issue pops up.)

carringb · 09-07-2016, 08:12 AM

Mine is a 32-spline Dana 70. Randy's put together the limited slip setup for mine (stock, with extra clutches)

Davidl13 · 09-07-2016, 08:59 AM

I am told I have the dreaded partial floating in the rear.... So I expect I will be swapping the rear for a full floating dana60 or a 10.5 sterling

Is there an advantage of one over the other?

I have a Dana 60 up front...

How do I determine how many splines I have?

TheLetterJ · 09-07-2016, 10:11 AM

advantage d60: direct bolt in, greater gearing and differential options

advantage sterling: higher capacity (both weight and torque)

Front d60's are almost all 35 spline at the inner axle/differential.

Dana axles all have a BOM number stamped on the tube somewhere, get those numbers and start googling and you'll find out all you'd ever want to know. If your wrenching skills are better than your google-fu, you can always pull out a shaft.

It's not particularly difficult to do, but you'll have to remove 1 wheel, remove brake caliper, pull the diff cover in the rear, pull out the cross shaft (1 bolt), push in an axle, remove c-clip, and then the whole thing will slide out... or just pull the side gear out instead.

For the front you'll have to disassemble a hub and remove the unit bearing/ spindle (depending on which axle you have) and just pull the axle shaft out. If you want to do this without draining the diff, just jack up the side that you'll be disassembling really high and the oil will stay in the pumpkin... or just take the opportunity to dump out the old fluid by pulling the cover.

Davidl13 · 09-07-2016, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

advantage d60: direct bolt in, greater gearing and differential options

advantage sterling: higher capacity (both weight and torque)

Front d60's are almost all 35 spline at the inner axle/differential.

Dana axles all have a BOM number stamped on the tube somewhere, get those numbers and start googling and you'll find out all you'd ever want to know. If your wrenching skills are better than your google-fu, you can always pull out a shaft.

It's not particularly difficult to do, but you'll have to remove 1 wheel, remove brake caliper, pull the diff cover in the rear, pull out the cross shaft (1 bolt), push in an axle, remove c-clip, and then the whole thing will slide out... or just pull the side gear out instead.

For the front you'll have to disassemble a hub and remove the unit bearing/ spindle (depending on which axle you have) and just pull the axle shaft out. If you want to do this without draining the diff, just jack up the side that you'll be disassembling really high and the oil will stay in the pumpkin... or just take the opportunity to dump out the old fluid by pulling the cover.

Thanks...given I have a v10.. Sounds like a full floating d60 will do me just fine... I'll work on this... Appreciate the help and info

carringb · 09-07-2016, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidl13

I am told I have the dreaded partial floating in the rear.... So I expect I will be swapping the rear for a full floating dana60 or a 10.5 sterling

Is there an advantage of one over the other?

The Sterling is more equivalent to a Dana 70.

Best thing is to match your front bolt pattern. Sterling = metric, rear Dana = standard (stock 2wd is standard, newer 4x4 axles are metric with adapters added to the rear).

Dana 60 full floats are ok if you aren't towing heavy or putting in a locker combined with big tires. Also beware that in 2005 the full-float 60 changed speed sensors styles (it moved from the diff to the hubs to allow for stability control)

MountainBikeRoamer · 09-07-2016, 11:26 AM

Since I'm in the midst of some good quality "Google-Fu" as TheLetterJ calls it....(doing the same kind of axle ID on my SMB too)....here's some of what I've come up with this morning:

"How To Identify A Dana Spicer Axle"
How To Identify A Dana Spicer Axle

Dana 60 General Reading:
(From the wiki page:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dana_60 )

General specifications
Every Dana 60 that was originally manufactured by Dana Corp (i.e. not aftermarket) is stamped with a build date and bill of materials on the back of the right hand axle tube.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) 6500 lbs.
(Edit: Not necessarily true for each application, so check your door sticker --- "Gross axle weight ratings are often lowered by the vehicle manufacturer for safety and tire reasons. They are also lowered to reduce loads on other powertrain components such as transmissions and transfer cases.")

Ring gear measures 9 3⁄4".
OEM Inner axle shaft spline counts are 16, 23, 30, 32, 33 and 35.
40 Spline inner axle shafts and carriers are made for after market, high performance Dana 60 axles.
Pinion shaft diameter: 1.625"
Pinion shaft splines: 10 and 29
Gear ratios: 3.31:1 - 7.17:1
Carrier break: 3.31:1 - 4.10:1 and 4.56:1 - 7.17:1
Axle Shaft diameter
1.41” Front (32 Spline)
1.46” Rear (32 Spline)
Axle spline diameter
1.50” Front (35 Spline)
1.50” Rear (35 Spline)

vandiesel · 04-17-2022, 01:39 PM

Reviving old thread. Just finished my rear upgrade. Dana 60 upgraded to 35 spline axles and truetrac lsd. I noticed some popping at slow turns during breakin. Thought it might be low on oil so topped it off. Yesterday decided to put a few more breakin miles on. Did extensive crazy 8s in my parking lot. No popping or anything strange. Once it warmed up then it starts popping hard at slow turns left or right. It never got hot to the touch during breakin and I’m running mineral based 80-90 as recommended. I’ve read dozens of reports of others having this issue mostly hot rodders. Anyone know of a fix or if it’s an issue? I know the van is super heavy. I’m changing the oil at my gear installer so he can see it but if gears look good as I suspect they will not sure what to do. I reached out to Eaton already.