Borg Warner 1356 Electric Shift on the Fly

[BajaSportsmobile]

When I did my 4X4 conversion I decided that I wanted an electric shift on the fly transfer case for several reasons, but mostly because I didn't want a shift lever in the middle of the floor.

Most 4-wheeling that I do in the SMB is in high range and at faster speeds than low range can be driven at. I hardly consider my EB a hard core wheeler - I have a Jeep and other full size 4X4's for that, but we love to get out to the deserts and beaches of Baja and CA.

I picked a Borg Warner 1356 with electric shift from a Bronco or F150 because I have had good success with them in the past, even in racing applications.

To get the electric shift on the fly to work, I picked up the complete wiring harness, computer, and shift button assembly from a donor '95 F150. I located the computer under the steering column, behind the steel knee guard panel. It requires power and ground, key switched power, connection to the neutral safety switch, brake switch, dash light dimmer and to the Speed Sensor on the back of the transfer case.

I mounted the selector buttons in the panel to the right of the steering column. It all works great, just as it did in the Bronco/F150 i took it from and I am very happy with it.

[E350]

Congratulations! I wanted that done when I had my van converted to 4x4, but the converter talked me out of it.

Any chance you could describe the model, engine and year of your van and post some pictures?

I would like to remove my manual BW 1356 and replace with a esof NV 273 transfer case.

[BajaSportsmobile]

'97 E350 EB V10.

I'll try to get a picture of the Button - everything else is tucked away.

[carringb]

FWIW - QuadVan also does ESOF but using the NV273. In the pre-'09 vans the dial replaces the cig lighter, and in the newer vans it goes on the flat panel between the steering column and the radio.

Normally I like to keep things simple. But with a van, especially with backseat passengers, I'd rather not have a shifter on the floor between the seats.

[maxacceleration]

I have had shift on the fly and auto hubs fail me. Expensive to replace.
Hard core manual is the way for me, especially on a 1 ton. Never mind the inconveniences.
Good luck with it.

[MadScience]

I keep bumping the transfer case lever when I climb from the back into the drivers seat.

I've been considering everything from moving the lever to the other side of the drivers seat (might be a bit too much linkage), adding some sort of a gate, or replacing it with a multi position solenoid. I don't think I'll go as far as swapping an otherwise serviceable transfer case, but if I was starting from scratch, I'd consider one with electric shift.

There's no reason you couldn't use manual (or even semi manual) hubs with it, which is really the thing that fails in the fully automatic setups.

[BajaSportsmobile]

Originally Posted by maxacceleration

I have had shift on the fly and auto hubs fail me. Expensive to replace.
Hard core manual is the way for me, especially on a 1 ton. Never mind the inconveniences.
Good luck with it.

Auto hubs can be problematic, especially if not serviced regularly, I'm not using them - they are standard locking hubs. If the transfer case does to not want to shift with a push of the button, it is relatively easy to shift it manually and anything that could fail is pretty cheap new or real cheap from the wrecking yard.

Keeping the shifter off the floor is well worth the outside chance and temporary inconvenience of it failing at some point and being easily remedied afield.

But, I understand your concerns - that is why when I ordered my SuperDuty, I ordered it with a manual transfer case and manual hubs, the vacuum operated hubs on them are particularly problematic. Luckily they are manually operable as well.

[cshenni]

1998 Ford E350 7.3 conversion done a few years ago by CCV (with help of some sort from Agile Off Raod)
Borg Warner 1356 with electronic shift

Problem: 4x4 switch has power but doesn't do anything

I found a blown 25 amp fuse under the dash. 4x4 module under the dash tested good. Fuse blows every time i hit the switch.

I found a broken 2 pin plug on top of the transfer case. When unplugged the fuse doesn't blow and it seems to shift into 4H and 4L while in neutral. I haven't driven it with the plug unplugged. When i plug it in the, fuse blows when i hit the switch. I'm assuming the plug is shorting. What does that plug do? Speed Sensor?

Thanks for the advice.