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Old 05-20-2020, 06:20 PM   #11
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dokaman: just send a PM to my box so i have your screen name close by and when i get it out from under the truck i can contact you. Beyond that i cant give you an exact date. I plan to use the MG kit at this point and just figure on replacing my entire exhaust system once the front axle is installed, if i can get some questions answered about the VSS and the ABS, steering box failures, and death wobble. I didnt want to replace my exhaust system because i just had a stainless tailpipe built for it last year and installed a brand new Ford OEM muffler on it... Buying an OEM E-350 V-10 muffler from ford is not cheap.

The MG kit is pretty basic and should be no more than a two day job to yank the old suspension out and have the new axle back underneath the truck once i get started.

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Old 05-20-2020, 07:50 PM   #12
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Chinook - I take it you have pinged MG and inquired about his kit handling the weight, forces, etc. peculiar to your rig? He is a very smart guy.
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Old 05-20-2020, 08:05 PM   #13
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I have emailed him as well as facebook messenger, but no i havent messaged him on here. I just signed up today before i made this post. As far as the weight of my truck goes its a non-issue if his kit is what its advertised as because it retains the original E-350 springs that came on the truck. Right now it has the weldtec grocery getter kit on it that uses lighter springs than the original ford e-350 springs. The grocery getter kit actually uses Pro-comp or skyjacker ford f150/bronco lift springs.

I looked at the Ujoint kit using the leaf springs just because its a heavy truck. But i just dont like the way the kit pushes the axle forward so much, it just doesnt look right to me. Dont get me wrong im sure it works great, i just dont like the look, it just looks off to me.
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:06 PM   #14
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Pushing the axle forward allows you to run larger tires without rubbing. At the same time, you’ll also need to address the geometry of the track bar by moving the frame mounting location forward, this also gains you diff clearance.
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Old 05-21-2020, 11:01 AM   #15
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Chinook

When I decided to do a 4wd van I searched out as many owners as I could of different conversions and talked with them. At the time I also reached out to several mfg. Chris at U Joint always responded and the customers with his leaf sprung conversions that I spoke with were very happy. So that is where I ended up going for a 6" leaf conversion. U Joint has always been quick to follow up with me and quickly resolved a couple of small issues i had. I put 25K miles on in the first year then decided I wanted a bit different van so I went back and had them do a second one for me that i have put 15K on to date. Both vans have driven much better than they ever did in stock trim and I would not hesitate to recommend U Joints products and service.
Hope this helps
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Old 05-21-2020, 11:27 AM   #16
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Pushing the axle forward allows you to run larger tires without rubbing. At the same time, you’ll also need to address the geometry of the track bar by moving the frame mounting location forward, this also gains you diff clearance.
Yes i understand the reasons for doing it. But my rig is an RV and im not really looking at putting gumbo mudders on it. As far as tire clearance goes, you can buy fenders that are specifically designed for that purpose versus shoving the axle so far forward that it looks disproportionate.
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Old 05-23-2020, 06:50 PM   #17
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Anyway...... Boulder off road also has some experience with converting chinooks, might be worth sending Don the owner an email to get some answers, scroll down on their home page and you’ll see the chinook. I’ve had them do a bunch of things for me over the years-fabrication and suspension work, top notch.

http://boulderoffroadvans.com
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:03 AM   #18
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What if you removed the camper from the Chinook and put it on a new(ish) Tacoma 4x4 (removing the bed of course) or 4x4 flat bed?
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Old 06-08-2020, 04:05 PM   #19
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Wow Chinook, I feel your frustration. I don't share it, but I feel it.



You see, I've done enough bolt on kits, engine swaps of various things, to know that nothing that touches several systems is truly 'bolt up and go'. I guess I've been beaten down


Maybe a Gale Banks stage 3 or 4 performance kit, but that comes at a high price tag/cost.



The small market for econoline 4x4 swaps, the various engine/trans combinations, the factory year to year variations, the special California parts, the list goes on and on, will ensure every conversion has it's own special issues to sort out. You want every possible scenario, every issue identified up front. I get it. I don't think you'll find it.



I'm afraid you will never find the answers, in the depth you require, until your arms are pit deep in grime, and you solve the individual issue with each modified system on your own. Some anticipated, and sadly, some not.


Or take your coach to an upfitter, and let him take the risk of quoting the job, doing the work, and uncovering and solving those same unplanned issues.


That's the way I see it.
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