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Old 05-31-2020, 11:38 AM   #11
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2001 GTRV
Advanced 4wd
Agile Ride improvement package
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Old 06-04-2020, 11:57 AM   #12
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If you relocate the track bar mount on the axle side to a location higher on the axle it will flatten out the angle. It could be mounted on the axle right in front of the spring perch you fabricated on the passenger side.

Sky Off-road engineering offers a high steer knuckle and steering arm for the axle you are using for your build.

Last note: You may want to move the front axle forward 1-1/2” from the stock location in the wheel well. I believe that is the dimension that UJoint and MG move it forward. Otherwise you will have clearance issues with the rear of the wheel well with 35” or larger tires.

Last note: I’d love to see King Coilivers with calving for a superduty under that thing. Seems easier than using the separate spring and shock setup. More simple to have just 1 mounting point.
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Old 06-04-2020, 02:17 PM   #13
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I have seen an earlier King coil set up on a home conversion and I liked it very much. When I did my conversion in 2003-04 I used custom made coils from Valley Spring near central California. My thought was to limit failure points for Baja travel. although a coil over can PROBABLY be rebuilt in the Baja part of Mexico the sites for this would be few and far in between so I chose to say as close to over the counter parts as possible. You can buy a shock or make one work anywhere in Mexico.
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Old 06-04-2020, 03:55 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
If the work you do is reflected in the brackets you're fabricating you're sooooooo far beyond a "shade tree mechanic" its appalling.

Like yourself I prefer thinking my standards are above those of any customer (whether paying or not) and in most cases I deliver better than expected. Not sure what that says but I don't want anyone who contracts my work to be disappointed no matter what money was (or was not) involved. Its the pride of a job well done driving me---I'm sure its the same for you as well.

Great looking work so far and I'm looking forward to your progress!
Thank you. In my case they are not customers but friends and I feel even more compelled to go above and beyond. Especially when it's something automotive related a person needs to be certain of the safety of the occupants and the public.

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Originally Posted by upsidedown View Post
If you relocate the track bar mount on the axle side to a location higher on the axle it will flatten out the angle. It could be mounted on the axle right in front of the spring perch you fabricated on the passenger side.

Sky Off-road engineering offers a high steer knuckle and steering arm for the axle you are using for your build.

Last note: You may want to move the front axle forward 1-1/2” from the stock location in the wheel well. I believe that is the dimension that UJoint and MG move it forward. Otherwise you will have clearance issues with the rear of the wheel well with 35” or larger tires.

Last note: I’d love to see King Coilivers with calving for a superduty under that thing. Seems easier than using the separate spring and shock setup. More simple to have just 1 mounting point.
I like the direction you're going here but unfortunately for this particular build it's not warranted. This van is going to look the part but probably not see a ton of action knowing the owner .

As for the high-steer kit that's something I need to look into. Although this axle is borrowed from another project. Once I find the axle that will actually belong to this van I can look at more permanent modifications.

Also the second set of holes in my radius arm brackets are 1.25" ahead of the stock axle center-line location. I honestly wouldn't want to go much farther then this without changes to the pitman-arm or steering box location and I'm hoping to avoid both of those.

Progress has been basically at a stand still over the last week as we are still waiting for wheels and tires to arrive. Hopefully tomorrow.





Above are the shackle reversal parts that I've created. Like I mentioned previously this van was taller then my garage door stock with air in the tires and right now I'm not sure how much disassembly is going to be required to get it back out the door. These will definitely be saved for an out-side install.

Another change of plans was the decision to use aftermarket radius arms. The motivation for this was 99% cosmetic to reduce how visible the radius arms are when looking at the side of the vehicle. These ones were chosen because they offered a good price and were available. I had considered building my own but factor in design time, material, machining, powder coat I thought these were a good value. As I work my way through this project and send out requests for parts with everything that is happening in this crazy world it is generating some long lead times. I often find myself says on the phone "Well what can you get?" and I just work with what is available. In this case I do really like these Superlift arms. They have an offset built into them for tire clearance and the lower bolts are cams for adjustment, this should prove to be beneficial to make this thing drive as nice as possible.



Hopefully over the next 2-3 days some more progress can be made.
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Old 06-04-2020, 03:58 PM   #15
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Oh and this is something else I've been toying with. Trying to get the design right.

Thoughts?
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Old 06-04-2020, 04:50 PM   #16
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Oh and this is something else I've been toying with. Trying to get the design right.

Thoughts?
I want one

So I'm thinking you aren't making these parts in your poor little 2 car garage.

If you dismount the stock tires you might be able to drive/roll it out on just the rims. I have done that before. If you put some old carpet down it doesn't hurt the rims at all.
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Old 06-04-2020, 05:18 PM   #17
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I want one

So I'm thinking you aren't making these parts in your poor little 2 car garage.

If you dismount the stock tires you might be able to drive/roll it out on just the rims. I have done that before. If you put some old carpet down it doesn't hurt the rims at all.
Welding is being done in the garage, CAD design is in the basement, cutting&forming I'm doing at a shop across town

I was worried about damaging the concrete floor with the rim bead. I'm thinking of using some 16" pipe and welding in centers to basically make some steel wheels. Still will need to pull the front springs and just set it down on the bump stop but that should get me out the door. Fingers crossed.
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Old 06-04-2020, 08:21 PM   #18
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I was looking at these parts for a front axle swap on a Chevy Duramax. This Fab Shop is WFO and they have built some parts that could be used on Vans, but they specialize in Trucks.
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D35DF8C4-6014-4E57-8C51-128BAEA6BEB7.jpg   429B16B0-740C-453A-AD0C-52CFE538016B.jpg   A9FDE252-9A9B-4770-AC2F-8C7C0DCF0214.jpg  
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Old 06-05-2020, 11:48 AM   #19
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I was worried about damaging the concrete floor with the rim bead. I'm thinking of using some 16" pipe and welding in centers to basically make some steel wheels. Still will need to pull the front springs and just set it down on the bump stop but that should get me out the door. Fingers crossed.[/QUOTE]

Man you are energetic! the carpet will protect the floor also.
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Old 06-07-2020, 01:16 PM   #20
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16' 2x6's. I had the same issue with a Jeep and a swing up garage door back in the day! I used old steelies and 2x6"
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