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Old 05-23-2019, 01:10 PM   #1
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E-350 front axle install pictures?

I’m trying to visualize what it’s going to take to accommodate my new donor F250’s (‘04) Dana 60, leaf springs, bars, links etc. into my E-350 (‘06). I’ve tried to search through the pictures and the threads to find photographs. Does anybody recall that there might of been or know of any photographs posted with mods, cuts to frame members etc. that you could direct me to?
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Old 05-23-2019, 02:40 PM   #2
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You mentioned leaf springs. Are you planning on using UJoint's kit?

Chris has videos posted on his site with instructions on how to install his kit. Watch both install videos and you'll have a good idea of what's involved.

Ujoint Offroad 4x4 Van Videos
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Old 05-23-2019, 03:15 PM   #3
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Yup. For an '04 donor axle, you want the U-joint leaf spring kit. Pick the lift height you want, and send them your powertrain info to add adapter costs.

4x4 van conversion parts
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Old 05-23-2019, 04:32 PM   #4
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^^^^^^ yep, what they said! ^^^^^^^
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Old 05-23-2019, 06:18 PM   #5
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Excellent, thanks to all three of you!

Would you guys or anyone know what the minimum lift I can get away with?
I don’t mind cutting fenders to accommodate but wondering what are the other hinderances on minimizing lift. I had led myself to believe 4” was minimum even thou I might even like less. Unjoint said to pick up his 6” in a reply this week.

I’m off to watch some videos!
Thanks Again!
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:05 PM   #6
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Minimum lift is 4” using a ujor leaf kit w/Dana 60 front straight axle. Even at 4”, you have to trim the engine crossmember a couple inches, and run wo/trackbar, which is the setup I have. If I had to do it over, I’d go 6” w/trackbar. With either, you want the ‘high steer’ option, which all but eliminates bump steer.
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:23 PM   #7
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Got it, thanks!
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Old 05-24-2019, 08:42 AM   #8
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Garage
2wd to 4wd + parts - http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...4x4-23829.html
high steer + other stuff - http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...edo-17676.html
both threads have pictures.
if you're on f-book - https://www.facebook.com/groups/6390...7992206394718/
that should get the ball rolling...
Chris
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Old 05-24-2019, 12:24 PM   #9
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Thanks Freeagent, Carringb, Tom'sBeast and Unreng.

That puts it into perspective.
Know what I've committed to now

Wondering if the downside to the "no track bar" is more significant for off road or on the highway ...?

I sent a join request to the FB page.

A huge help all.
Thanks Again!
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Old 07-03-2019, 12:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phred View Post
Wondering if the downside to the "no track bar" is more significant for off road or on the highway ...?

If you correct marginal/poor steering geometry, I say you don't need one.


I've studied the underside of my van, how track bars work, what causes bump steer and why did Ford use a track bar on their leak sprung front suspension trucks. I've concluded that a leaf spring sprung suspension using a track bar is in a bind, as the suspension cycles, working against itself. It also reduces bumpsteer, when the steering tie rod geometry isn't optimal.



Ford did a pretty good job on the leaf sprung trucks, track bars reduce bumpsteer by forcing the tie rod and axle housing to move in a common arc, which is KEY, and a good thing. In order to do that, the track bar forces the entire axle housing to translate (move sideways) maybe 3/4" as the suspension cycles, instead of steer the truck when you don't want it to. The driver never notices this side translation, doesn't feel bumpsteer, has a good experience so Ford sold trucks. Add a lift kit and this all goes to hell in a handbasket.



In my opinion, Ford and customers would have been better off engineering in a 'high steer' type set up, and eliminating the track bar altogether on it's leaf sprung trucks. Instead, in the next generation, Ford got rid of the leaf springs, used coils and a forward facing 4-link, w/track bar. In that later configuration, the housing still translates sideways as suspension cycles, but the 4-link and coils design doesn't resist sideways translation and bind like a pair of leaf springs do. In fact, you MUST locate the housing with a track bar, (or some such device) to prevent uncontrolled sideways translation.



Leaf springs on solid axles don't like to be shoved sideways, so they resist, putting the springs in somewhat of a bind, increasing harshness of ride, and putting undo forces on the track bar and it's mounting brackets. As the leaves cycle up and down, the track bar translates the housing sideways, in doing so, the track bar forces the shackle and spring eye bushing to compress, flex the leaves sideway, they move but under protest, and add apparent stiffness to the front suspension. All bad things.



So far as a track bar being necessary for locating a leaf spring suspension, it's not. My evidence is the fact that manufacturers don't use a track bar of the rear of a leaf sprung rear suspension. I would submit that Ford used track bar to correct poor steering geometry, and minimize bumpsteer.



Because of a trackbar working against a pair of leaf springs, and binding, most of the aftermarket 4x4 van conversions, track bars and their mounts often crack.


In my view, and from my first hand experience, I'd say you want EITHER a track bar, or a high steer set up (where the tie rod from pitman arm to knuckle, is as horizontal as you can get it).
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