EB350 RIP kit - install local or drive to Agile?

[coot]

I have a 2010 E350 6.0 Powerstroke w/ EB50 build and Quigley 4x4. Everything pretty much stock. While the van handles well, the ride is so rough that only my 15 y/o son will ride with me in the van! So I have decided to go with the Agile RIP kit based upon all the feedback in the forum. Right move?

I have a quote for the installation either at Agile Offroad in Santee, or locally here in the San Jose area. Cost is the same, once accounting for diesel for the 1000 mile roundtrip.

Do I go with a local installer (solid yelp reviews) or go with Agile? Local means if there is a problem, the fix is local, and installation is way more convenient. Agile means at least a 4 day trip and no local service in the future.

I'm curious how technically difficult it is to do the RIP installation right?

[doublevan2]

I've got a 2002 E350 V-10 Quigley - weighing out at 10,500 plus when loaded for bear. I had an Agile RIP Kit installed locally (labor cost about $700) - in order to help prevent the "death wobble" - although I really didn't feel I had the "wobble" - just the "hoppies." The kit included Version 4 Fox shocks. My "hoppy" front end still had some hop to it after the install - so I talked with Agile - and they sent me tuned Version 5 Fox shocks - which abated about 50 -60 percent of the hop - but stiffens the ride a bit more. Might have to run the tires a bit softer on pavement - and softer off road. i would question if the RIP Kit will make your ride "softer." Maybe you should try some Bilsteins first to see if that works - before you go the RIP Kit first -- AND run your tires a bit softer also (with Bilsteins) on pavement - and if all else fails - go the RIP Kit if you understand the ride may be stiffer - especially with Version 4 or 5 Fox shocks -- and in addition the upgraded coil springs (or leaf springs) depending on what your van is set up for ?

Just my 2 cents and experience -

[SheepShagger]

As to the op question, there are many very minor changes to quigleys over the years, and with a little work you can get a better kit, so I’d recommend agile if you are paying for someone to install, and make sure to go over all the options. (Like the longer rear shocks etc).

To the previous post, if you want to fix death warble / wander / loose front end, you have issues that agile RIP won’t fix. Ie Death wobble is pretty much always a new drop link (or replace bushings) on a quigley.
I have one of the first RIP kits, and it’s 100x better than the Bilsteins I used to run. When I ordered mine, there were a variety of options not sure what’s included now. I went with 2 extra rear leaf and new overload leaf (add those to existing pack), front springs, 4 shocks, sway bar relocation, sway bar axle rubbers, steering stabilizer. (I went with extended rear shock option, which means cutting off the quigley shock extensions and going back to stock). All in all I’ve got 50k miles on it and couldn’t be happier, well worth the ~1k I paid 6 years ago.
Took about a day to install, hardest part by far was cutting out the sway bar bushings quigly welded in.

[Steve C]

"The ride is so rough that only my 15 y/o son will ride with me in the van"

That doesn't sound right, my Quigley (2001) was actually softer riding than my Dodge 2500 P/U. The primary reason I upgraded to a RIP was to solve some serious butt sag in the rear. After researching new leaf packs and talking to Agile, I decided to just go with their complete kit so all the parts would play well with each other. I've got around 10,000 miles on the RIP and am very pleased with the improved handling characteristics and would recommend it.

I had my local shop install the kit with no issues for just under the cost that Agile was going to charge. The installation is basic and straight forward so unless you want something custom done at Agile, I don't see a compelling reason to make the drive.

In the meantime, I would recommend calling Agile and discussing your van's harsh ride characteristics and what your specific expectations with the RIP kit are.

[clicker44]

@coot - Agile was once a great Econoline shop but is now a Sprinter shop. I would definitely not make the drive to San Diego to have them install your RIP kit. Fairly often these big heavy vans need ball joints, tie rod ends and various steering components that can all be changed out when installing the RIP kit. Agile will not do any of that stuff at the time of RIP kit install (unless something has changed since 2020). If you are not DIY'ing that labor you will end up paying double for somebody else to do it if your van needs any front end steering components.

Also @doublevan2 is spot on. The RIP kit is cool but can be hit or miss. There was once a time when Agile was the only van outfitter in the game, and they did tons of Econolines....but that has changed and there are more options now.

I have had the RIP kit done to both of my Quigley vans (RB and EB) and on the EB (10.5k lbs) I got a custom rear spring pack as well. If I could do it over again....I would have just done the bare minimum to get the van to track straight and then saved up for a U-Joint "de-quigley" setup and just got springs from Deaver.

If you search around on the forum there is a thread somewhere about kind of DIY'ing a RIP kit (w/o the custom tuned shocks). If I remember correctly the exact coils can be purchased.

Just my $0.02.

[coot]

Thanks for the replies doublevan2, SheepShagger, Steve C and clicker44.

What I mean by the harsh ride is the front suspension bottom out, hitting the bump stop, when going over the smallest potholes, speed bump. etc. A washboarded road is crazy jarring to the passengers. I saw this described on the Agile Offroad site for the RIP kit and it seemed to capture the problem perfectly:

"Here’s the problem: their front suspension suffers from limited bump travel primarily due to the front frame cross member interfering with the front axle differential housing at full bump. In both designs, cross members are modified to provide maximum clearance, but the unintended result of this modification is an underwhelming 1.5 inches (or less) of bump travel before the front suspension “bottoms out.” Any impact is directly transferred to the van and its unfortunate occupants."

The current RIP package is exactly what you described SheepShagger.

[SheepShagger]

Originally Posted by coot

Thanks for the replies doublevan2, SheepShagger, and Steve C.

What I mean by the harsh ride is the front suspension bottom out, hitting the bump stop, when going over the smallest potholes, speed bump. etc. A washboarded road is crazy jarring to the passengers. I saw this described on the Agile Offroad site for the RIP kit and it seemed to capture the problem perfectly:

"Here’s the problem: their front suspension suffers from limited bump travel primarily due to the front frame cross member interfering with the front axle differential housing at full bump. In both designs, cross members are modified to provide maximum clearance, but the unintended result of this modification is an underwhelming 1.5 inches (or less) of bump travel before the front suspension “bottoms out.” Any impact is directly transferred to the van and its unfortunate occupants."

The current RIP package is exactly what you described SheepShagger.

I did the travel measurements on mine, before and after, listed in this thread https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ley-17349.html (although the pictures are no longer their).

Below are pulled from that thread. But in short, yes you will get more up travel in the front and it will absolutely help ride quality. But as you can see from the numbers, you are increasing up travel, but also loosing down travel, so in reality just changing the "static sag" of the van.

Front up travel (Before) 2" (After) 3"
Front total travel (Before) 4 3/4" (After) 4 3/4"
Rear up travel (Before) 3 1/8" (After) 5 1/2"
Rear total travel (Before) 8 3/8" (After) 8 3/8"

[mikracer]

I've owned two different Quigley vans and they both constantly hit the bump stops. I never got around to purchasing the RIP kit for either van (long wait times and sold the vans), but everyone who gets the RIP kit seems to be pretty happy.

As far as your question as to where to install, I would probably have a local shop install it. The install isn't anything special so I dont see a need for a trip all the way down there unless you're looking to hit the road for a few days.

I will say it may be worth getting your van weighed before choosing which shock valving you get. I have an Agile 4x4 conversion and my shocks are a bit stiff. I think if I had an actual weight on it before going in, it would be a little softer which would be to my liking.

[doublevan2]

Maybe get just the tuned Fox shocks (Version 4 or 5 ?) and new coil springs/leaf springs and give that a try before going the full RIP Kit - if needed after the aforementioned ?

[Kibo]

Originally Posted by coot

What I mean by the harsh ride is the front suspension bottom out, hitting the bump stop, when going over the smallest potholes, speed bump. etc. A washboarded road is crazy jarring to the passengers.

I went the DIY route mentioned by clicker44 on my 2011 Quigley EB V10, starting with longer (Moog CC880S) springs up front. Even with no other changes, the $80 I spent on these springs made the single biggest difference in ride quality. I subsequently upgraded the rear springs to Alcan progressives (mainly to level out the van) and installed Sumo bumpstops in the rear, but almost all of the harshness came from the front. I have yet to upgrade the shocks themselves, still saving/planning for that.

Another consideration for ride quality is your tires/wheels. A "larger" tire with more volume will allow you to lower the tire pressures while maintaining load rating, and this can help considerably with comfort.

Regarding this:

Originally Posted by Sheepshagger

(I went with extended rear shock option, which means cutting off the quigley shock extensions and going back to stock).

The measurements I took when installing my Alcan springs indicate that this is the way to go--you need as much shock length as you can get. My measurements indicated the same up front, ditch the Quigley adapters used with the OEM shocks. In fact, I would go so far as to say that you should stick with stem-top shocks instead of using eyelets with adapters, because you lose travel. I ASSume this is what Sheepshagger meant by losing downtravel, since without limit straps the shocks are acting as travel limiters?