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Old 10-15-2019, 07:55 AM   #201
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To answer your sway bar question...

I drove mine multiple miles without a sway bar. Drove good, but I decided to install a sway bar anyway as it really wasn't difficult to do.



As copied from my Facebook 4x4 Expedition Project Page...

"Sway-bar final assembly. Moved the OEM E350 sway bar chassis attachment point 2" forward for sway-bar ends to clear coil springs and allow for full travel movement around installed track bar mount.
Extended OEM F350 sway-bar linkages (Ford part # PSA55939) from 4.25" to 7.5" to raise linkage / sway-bar attachment point allowing for an optimal vertical linkage and horizontal sway-bar configeration.
Van drove ok without the sway-bar, but the installation is very noticeable with significantly less to no body roll while cornering.

In general van now drives better than pre-lift."
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Sway bar links rh .jpg   Sway bar attachment bottom.jpg   Sway bay attachment front.jpg   Sway bar link OEM.jpg   Sway bar link extended.jpg  

Sway bar link lh.jpg  

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Old 10-15-2019, 08:07 AM   #202
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Wheel Adapters

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Originally Posted by Van Diesel View Post
3) does anyone know if 1.5" or 1.75" thick wheel adapters will work w/o having to shorten the studs?

1.5" (38mm) did not require any modification to the existing studs, however OEM E-series axle threads are different to that on the adapter. A thin walled socket is required to install the E-Series lug nuts into the adapter.
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Old 10-15-2019, 08:43 AM   #203
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I'm not using a sway bar up front and it's fine. Im also relatively light overall. I suspect that if you had a high top or a really heavy interior build you may want the sway bar.


I actually have an extra pair of those brackets still in the packaging due to a mixup in ordering. I'd like to get rid of them for a few bucks plush shipping. I have the rubber bump stops too. PM me if you are interested.
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Old 10-15-2019, 03:58 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Diesel View Post
1) Has anyone done their front axle without a sway bar? Results? Recommendations?
I removed my front sway bar after a few thousand miles and I prefer how it drives around town. It's quieter and seems to have a little better movement up front. It initially felt a little "looser" at highway speeds, but after an hour or two of getting used to it, it's all good. I don't have a high top, but I didn't notice much difference in body sway, etc.

Another benefit to losing the sway bar is that it no longer interferes with mounting a front hitch if that's something that you are considering.
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Old 10-28-2019, 01:27 PM   #205
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Originally Posted by Mikerson View Post
I'm getting close to installing my rear axle. I went with an '13 Sterling. The MG instructions say that the 12-16 axles can be used on earlier vans with modifications to the sensors. Does anybody have any more information about what has to be done to make this combo work?


Also related, I have a 4R70W. What kind of adapter will I need to handle the speed sensor after the tranny is converted to 4wd?


Thanks everyone!
Mikerson -- did you ever figure this out? I'm trying to respect MG by not sending him an email directly! The rear diff in my van is in dire straits, so instead of fixing it, I'm just going to buy a Sterling and swap it in.

I'm eyeing a 2015 4.30 with a locker -- but I want to know what I have to do to get the speed sensors to work with my 7.3L 4R100.

Cheers!
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Old 10-28-2019, 09:52 PM   #206
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Hi winnievan,

I have some good news and some bad news. The good news is, yes, I got my 2013 superduty axle installed and mechanically functioning properly. I have not; however, been able to get the ABS sensors to work. I've got a permanent ABS light on the dash, but I have a plan. Here is some information to help you out.

If you look on rock auto, there are three rear ABS sensors for 2012-2016 rear axles. Two of the sensors are active type sensors and in this case there are different sensor for left and right (looks like it's just the cable that's different though). My axle has the rear locker and hub sensors, so I suspect the upgraded axle comes with the separate ABS sensors for traction control.

There is also the standard center diff ABS sensor listed as fitting. I suspect the non-locker axles had the center sensor, but I haven't confirmed. If I recall, the center sensor for the trucks is the exact same part no. as the van, so if you can find one like this, it should be pretty easy to swap.

In my case, the plan is to try to find a passive type sensor to fit in one of the wheel hub holes. I've tried four different sensors so far. I have some that are very close to the right form factor, but still an active type. I'm hoping my next round of special order from O'Reilly's gets me there.

My next problem is that the hub tone ring has 54 teeth on it (mine does, some may be different), instead of the 120 on the center carrier mount ring (120 on van or pickup if pickup is center-mount). So, you will need to convert the tone pulse frequency to mimic the larger number of teeth per wheel revolution that the van ABS module is expecting. I went with the Abbot Electronic Ratio Adapter for this, but the Dakota Digital SGI-5E theoretically works too, and is cheaper. There are also some speedometer correction devices for motorcycles on Amazon that I was intrigued by, but they couldn't confirm that it would work, while Abbot said for sure it was good to go.

In my first order of sensors I bought all Standard Motor Products brand sensors, because it seemed like they were good price/quality and available through my local store. I tested them by measuring resistance and comparing the shape to the stock truck hub-style sensor. An active type sensor is probably a Hall-effect and will show mega-ohm resistance between the two wires. A passive sensor is a variable reluctance sensor, and will show kilo-ohm resistance. Here are the part numbers I tried.

ALS1717 - Form factor= very very close - Sensor type=active
ALS169 - Form factor=no
ALS157 - Form factor=highly possible - Sensor type=active
ALS155 - Form factor=not likely

The ALS1717 is actually the sensor for 2005-2007 super duty front wheel, so I am a little hopeful the 2004 and earlier super duty sensor (als120/170) will be a close enough form factor and be a passive style. I looked at so many sensors on the web and narrowed it down to a couple more I am going to try.

ALS185 from mid-90's Bronco (long shot based on picture)
ALS497 98-2000 explorer (why not)
and the Dorman 970227 (Can't find an equivalent Standard Motor Products Part no.)

If none of those work, I'll investigate drilling out the hole in the wheel hub to accept these other sensors, but I may have to resort to mounting a custom tone ring on the output of the transfer case. In this case, one needs to do the math on the right number of teeth to convert from 120 pulses per wheel revolution to the corresponding pulses for one driveshaft revolution. Then a bracket needs to be fabbed to hold the stock sensor securely in place near the new tone ring.

My transmission guy said that sometimes the computers get signal from the ABS sensors. Fortunately, I don't seem to have a transmission speed sensor on my 4R70 and my van drives fine without the rear ABS while I get this sorted out. Before you even think about going down this route I would pull the rear ABS sensor plug and see if your van will still drive. The stories from guys with the 4R100 are pretty scary (it needs speed info to tell the computer to shift).

Ok, last bit of info. Since the rear axle from the newer truck has dual brake lines, you'll need a way to combine them back to one for the single van line. I used a brake line from a Bronco II. It was long enough to accommodate my shackle flip and an add-a-leaf (6 inches total lift). I think there is room for 1 more inch of lift. I cheaped out and got the Sunsong 2203740 from Amazon to see if it would fit, and it does work so I kept it and installed it. The rigid lines from each caliper will need to be bent a little if I recall, but that flexible line block is the right fitting size to accept the two lines and mate up with the rigid van line up by the body. I bought a little brass plug to keep the brake fluid from leaking out all over while I swapped the axles out/in. It was a few bucks at O'Reilly and worth every cent.

If anybody else has any info on abs sensors, that would be a big help.
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Old 10-28-2019, 10:55 PM   #207
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Wow. That’s a lot of work you’ve done. Keep it up!!! Isn’t this the fun part!!

One of the reasons I’ve been eyeing the 2013+ axles is getting one with a locker and low miles is cheaper than paying for a complete rebuild!

I can live without ABS, but hot damn, I better check the 4r100 can work without the rear sensor!

Guess I’ll start studying how the ABS system is wired in our vans to see if I can figure something out to help. Everything I’ve seen indicates our vans have 4 wheel ABS, but I haven’t really looked for ABS sensors on the rear wheels. Is it just a single tone ring on the carrier monitoring the rear wheels simultaneously? I guess that would make sense? Never really messed with ABS systems before.

I was hoping this was more “plug n” play” but I’m sure it is as soon as the correct sensor is found.

Maybe I’ll look for older axles and rebuild them myself, although I’m dealing with a leaking fuel bowl right now, so I guess I’ll work on that first.
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Old 10-29-2019, 03:09 PM   #208
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Also -- how'd you go about modifying your tranny crossmember? I know the 7.3L will be different than what you've got but without being able to buy a UJoint x-member, I'm at a bit of an impass on how to accomplish that portion of the job.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:46 AM   #209
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Also -- how'd you go about modifying your tranny crossmember? I know the 7.3L will be different than what you've got but without being able to buy a UJoint x-member, I'm at a bit of an impass on how to accomplish that portion of the job.
Just buy this kit from Tim at timberline and add it to you stock cross member. https://www.4x4vans.com/product-page...ember-drop-kit
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:26 PM   #210
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Well that's a nice affordable unit. Now that I know how much the tranny needs to drop, I'll probably just make some of those myself and weld them in.

Be a nice project next time I get access to a plasma cutter and welder.
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