MG Metal Works DIY kit knowledge share

[Mikerson]

Originally Posted by winnievan

Also -- how'd you go about modifying your tranny crossmember?

This may not apply to you with the 4r100, but this is how I made the crossmember work for the 4r70.

I ended up cutting the curled up ends off my existing crossmember, right where the curl starts, to have as much remaining length in the center as possible. I bought a couple pieces of steel plate from my local machine shop. If I remember right, they were 9”x6”x3/16”. Next, I cut the ends off what was left of my crossmember at new angles so that when reattached, they would clear the front driveshaft and make room for the exhaust. I drilled matching holes in the plates and MG brackets, and bolted the plates up so that I could weld the ends of the crossmember to the plate. The center piece of the crossmember was supported in the right place by the trans mount/trans so that I could hold my new-angled pieces of crossmember in and tack them to the plate and the center cross-member section. Then carefully unbolt all that mess and fully weld all the joints. I put some gussets for strength at the intersection of the cross-member and plates. Be careful not to warp everything with welding. Paint, then put everything in the van.

It probably cost me less than $20 for the plate. I cut the corners off the plate to make it line up nice with the bracket. I also had to do some creative grinder work to clear the bolt.

Fortunately, it seems with the 5.4/4r70 combo that the trans mount is pretty close in-line with the radius arm pivot points. That meant that my angle cuts were limited to changing the up/down angle of the crossmember. It was kind of a crazy setup running the chop saw with the crossmember at the necessary angle, but I made it work. A few pics attached, ignore the welds....it was laaattte at night when I got to that.


Regarding the single tone ring in the van and earlier truck axles, yes, one sensor handles both wheels. It has to if you look at the way the brake line comes in, there is only one running from the ABS pump to the back by the axle.

[Megalovon]

I am putting a DRW Dana 80 in my van so I have to relocate the spring perches and shock mounts on the new axle. My initial plan was to simply put the perches and mounts in the same position that they were in on the original van axle. My fabricator friend warned me about how the angle can/will change with the rear lift, from what I have read the rear is going to have to go up approx. 4"? to match the new front axle. I also heard of people shimming the leaf spring perches to change the rear axle geometry. Has anyone had ANY issues with either the stock axle or a swap axle once the lift has been put in? Thanks in advance for any help

[Lilnuts2]

I'm about to start my MG conversion on my 2002 E350 LB 7.3. I have a pair of axles off a 2015 F250 with the 4:30s in them. I have searched this and other related threads and can't seem to find a couple of answers:

Will 37" tires fit if using the heavier (S31?) springs?

What is the spline of the transfercase needed to mate to my 4R100?

With that year Sterling axle do I need to find a tranny tail section with the speedo sensor in it?

If I buy a transfercase minus shifter, does anyone know if the UJOR shifter relo kit is all I would need to complete the shifter setup?

Thanks for all the great info in here.

Jim in Colorado

[winnievan]

Believe it is 31 spline and I’m almost positive you’ll need a tail housing with a speedo sensor hole in it.

I’m sure you know this, but the 4r100 has to come out so you can swap the tail shafts.. otherwise just find a 4x4 4r100 from a 7.3 4x4.

[mgmetalworks]

Not sure about 37s... havent tried to fit those before. Will probably need some fender trimming.

Regardless of the year of axles, you need the sensor in the tailhousing. The output shaft speed sensor will also need an altered signal. The van and truck output shaft reluctor wheels are different.

Earlier in this thread there's info about the shifter linkage. Part numbers and such.

[ctb]

I can't read all the LATIN HERE!!! Man you folks are brilliant! Wish I knew more, but (at least) I am getting a heck-of-an education! Free even!!!

[Mikerson]

Thanks for the great info here, MG. Couple questions for you.

Originally Posted by mgmetalworks

In cases where we're doing stand alone auto hubs, we've used the vacuum solenoid from the F150. It's a continuous duty solenoid that is basically just on or off. Two wires (power and ground), two vacuum lines (1.From van vacuum source, 2. To hubs).

Do you have a part number or model years for the F150 this solenoid comes from? Will any old relay with sufficient rating work? Where is the best place to pull vacuum from?

[mgmetalworks]

Originally Posted by Mikerson

Thanks for the great info here, MG. Couple questions for you.



Do you have a part number or model years for the F150 this solenoid comes from? Will any old relay with sufficient rating work? Where is the best place to pull vacuum from?

PM me your email, I'll send you our Tcase install pdf.

[Lilnuts2]

Regardless of the year of axles, you need the sensor in the tailhousing. The output shaft speed sensor will also need an altered signal. The van and truck output shaft reluctor wheels are different.

MG, what is your fav product to correct this difference?

Jim in Colorado

[mgmetalworks]

Originally Posted by Lilnuts2

MG, what is your fav product to correct this difference?

Jim in Colorado

The Electronic Ratio Adapter from Abbott Enterprises is a simple and reliable solution.

Electronic Ratio Adapter (ERA)