MG Metal Works DIY kit knowledge share

[wild-kiwi]

Economical alternative to Carli Suspension Track Bar CS-FPRB-05 $345.00?...
https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-...AaAtjsEALw_wcB


And same for Steering stabilzer bracket Ford F2UZ-3E652-A $55.00 / Fox 2.0 Performance Series Smooth Body IFP Stabilizer 985-24-001 $156.00?...
https://www.roughcountry.com/steerin...html?rrec=true


Just throwing it out there. Has anyone any experience with the roughcountry line of products, how do they compare to name brand like Carli and Fox.


Furthermore...
I kind of like the look of stainless lines. Maybe a little more than standard, but I'm guessing these will do the job?...
https://www.roughcountry.com/extende...nes-89710.html

[karma]

Originally Posted by wild-kiwi

Economical alternative to Carli Suspension Track Bar CS-FPRB-05 $345.00?...
https://www.roughcountry.com/forged-...AaAtjsEALw_wcB


And same for Steering stabilzer bracket Ford F2UZ-3E652-A $55.00 / Fox 2.0 Performance Series Smooth Body IFP Stabilizer 985-24-001 $156.00?...
https://www.roughcountry.com/steerin...html?rrec=true


Just throwing it out there. Has anyone any experience with the roughcountry line of products, how do they compare to name brand like Carli and Fox.

That's a good chunk of saving on track bar if it meets specs of MG. I'll let then comment on that

The Stabilizer i guess all of the ones that work on similar year f250/f350 will work in our application. I see the price difference between the fox kit and the rough country is about $50, don't know how reliable they are as compared to fox though.

[wild-kiwi]

I'm going with 35" tires and planning on starting with a castor kit from the get go to avoid any issues later. Has anyone any experience with the following or found a cheaper alternative?...


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VW4FNG...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[Brian94ht]

Originally Posted by wild-kiwi

I'm going with 35" tires and planning on starting with a castor kit from the get go to avoid any issues later. Has anyone any experience with the following or found a cheaper alternative?...


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VW4FNG...v_ov_lig_dp_it

That is the first time I had seen that, and its interesting to read the reviews that claim to cure death wobble.
MG has a castor correction kit that enables the modification to the factory radius arms for more castor. Talk to Jeremy to have them included with your kit. I think its cheaper than that route.

[Brian94ht]

Furthermore...
I kind of like the look of stainless lines. Maybe a little more than standard, but I'm guessing these will do the job?...
https://www.roughcountry.com/extende...nes-89710.html[/QUOTE]

I cant see replacing with OEM lines, would much rather use stainless. Thanks for the link.

[wild-kiwi]

Originally Posted by Brian94ht

That is the first time I had seen that, and its interesting to read the reviews that claim to cure death wobble.
MG has a castor correction kit that enables the modification to the factory radius arms for more castor. Talk to Jeremy to have them included with your kit. I think its cheaper than that route.

Yes, seems a lot of money for a castor kit, I'll definitely be hitting Jeremy up for the alternative.

As for correcting 'death wobble' (not to be confused with bump steer) my limited understanding of steering / suspension geometry death wobble is s castor issue and changes with increased ride height.

[mgmetalworks]

If you're going with something other than the Carli adjustable trac bar, keep this in mind... It has to be adjustable and it has to be 2005-2016 F250/350 compatible. 2017+ won't work with earlier axles. I like the Carli unit because the axle side joint is angled just right for this application and the lower ball joint is in a neutral position. I have not used another manufacturers trac bar but that doesn't mean that another won't work.

As for brake lines... I like the stock F-series lines because they (the part number provided in our documentation) comes with mounting brackets on the ends that really work nice. Nothing wrong with braided stainless...I have them on the Cummins van. I'd start with stock length lines. I went with extended lines once and they were too long.

Don't forget to read through Jsweezy's builds. He documented the process pretty well and provided a lot of part number info for things he encountered.
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ild-16958.html

[Brian94ht]

I picked up my axle from the local Fedex freight terminal today.
2015 3.73 with less than 20K miles $1200 shipped
sway bar, radius arms included, missing a few bolts (I knew ahead of time), but other than that it seems to check out
I found the axle on car-part.com. It is from Hanser's Salvage in Billings Montana. I had been looking off and on for the past couple months but really ramped up looking in the past 2-3 weeks. I emailed 8-10 contacts for axles off car-part, very few replied.
Kyle Ailes with Hanser's replied quickly with 4 pics and a quote shipped to Boise. Within a couple hours of paying he sent me the address of the local Fedex terminal he was shipping to, and an hour later had emailed a tracking#
The pallet landed here in less than 3 business days.
You can see the ABS line laying on the concrete, they even cut on the truck side of the connector.

[JWA]

^^^^Good find--congrats, seems like a fair price too!

[Brian94ht]

Originally Posted by mgmetalworks

If you're going with something other than the Carli adjustable trac bar, keep this in mind... It has to be adjustable and it has to be 2005-2016 F250/350 compatible. 2017+ won't work with earlier axles. I like the Carli unit because the axle side joint is angled just right for this application and the lower ball joint is in a neutral position. I have not used another manufacturers trac bar but that doesn't mean that another won't work.

As for brake lines... I like the stock F-series lines because they (the part number provided in our documentation) comes with mounting brackets on the ends that really work nice. Nothing wrong with braided stainless...I have them on the Cummins van. I'd start with stock length lines. I went with extended lines once and they were too long.

Don't forget to read through Jsweezy's builds. He documented the process pretty well and provided a lot of part number info for things he encountered.
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ild-16958.html

I was under the impression some were using the OEM trac bar and replacement was an upgrade.
More recently I'm getting the impression it (or an adjustable trac bar replacement) is necessary.
Is it necessary? Binding with the OEM pivots?

Btw, for those checking out the build link above the MG kit stuff starts around Page 18