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Old 02-23-2022, 12:44 PM   #541
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The tone ring signals are triggered by " teeth" passing under a reader that sends that pulse signal to the computer. The tone ring on the rear axle has (I think) 120 teeth per revolution. The new transmission one is smaller and has a different amount of teeth on it. The device MG recommends counts your new smaller ring and sends the correct signal (what your original tone ring would put out) to the computer, problem solved.

And no you can't just change the rings, not without a ton of custom work.
Buy the converter before you jack up your tranny from bad input info.
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Old 02-23-2022, 02:22 PM   #542
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Questions

Im coming close to completing my 1998 E-350 suspension install and been holding off with asking the next few questions until i was close to being done.
The front end came from 2014 Super duty and ive been taking pictures and posting them on my Instagram under Raderlou if anyone is interested on my slow progress.

When removing the stock front end on the van i dont remember disconnecting any sensor wires to the hubs, now that i rebuilt the front with new hubs and installed, i now have wires that need to be connected which brings me to my first question...

Does a 1998 Ford E-350 have speed sensors on the front hubs or can I just remove the sensor wires from the new bearing hubs?

Im also running the stock rear and in need of a Fox or Bilstein shock part number. I went with the 4" Pro Comp rear springs instead of a block to give me the lift needed on the stock spring. The part number i have for the rear shocks are (FOX 985-24-009) or (Bilstein 33-230351)

I was told for my application the Bilstein shock is recommended due to valving on the Fox shock.

Any help with part numbers or recommendations will be appreciated.

Thank you,
Louie Z
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Old 02-23-2022, 02:42 PM   #543
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I believe you have front ABS, do you not see the pigtails hanging down for it?
It's also my understanding the pigtails are reversed from your year to the 2014 axle. Meaning you have to cut the 2014 pigtails off and slice in the opposite sex (so to speak) from your old take offs.
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Old 02-23-2022, 02:44 PM   #544
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Hey Lilnuts2,
Thank you for your quick response. I dont see any pigtails or what the actual connection looks like so i can investigate further.
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Old 02-23-2022, 03:12 PM   #545
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There should be a pigtail right behind the shock on the frame (both sides). There is an extension that goes from there to that front wheel.
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Old 02-23-2022, 03:24 PM   #546
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I will take a look and try to find them. Other than the ABS light on the dash, is it critical that they are installed?
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Old 03-02-2022, 08:38 PM   #547
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I have a bracket kit available from the last production batch that wasn't already pre-sold. Hit me up if you're interested. More kits in process now too.
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Old 03-05-2022, 11:11 AM   #548
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Sway Bar

Getting ready to finish up the MG kit install on my 98', would anybody have any good pics or input on how to drill out the frame for the new sway bar brackets MG has on his kit. Do 2 holes need to be drilled and threaded or only 1? Thanks Louie
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Old 03-10-2022, 06:38 AM   #549
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Originally Posted by Raiderlou View Post
Getting ready to finish up the MG kit install on my 98', would anybody have any good pics or input on how to drill out the frame for the new sway bar brackets MG has on his kit. Do 2 holes need to be drilled and threaded or only 1? Thanks Louie
The sway bar mounting holes became apparent once I mock up all the components under the van. Lightly snug all the bolts and swing the sway bar up to the frame. When you lightly snug the bolts it positions the bar link end in the position they should on the axle. so when you rotate the swing bar to the frame it will intersect where it needs to site.

A tip if I were to do this again is I would remove the front bumper (two bolts on each side) super simple, this will get you access to the inside of the frame where you can clean all metal shavings from drilling the holes and use a nut/bolt if you want rather than threading the frame.
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Old 03-10-2022, 07:12 AM   #550
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Turning my van's wheels in any direction at a full stop is very difficult. What are you all experiencing?

I just finished my build and I have put over 2k miles on it so far and now my steering pump is starting to make noise. I figured I check with you all since we have similar conversion kits and rather similar steering setups with 35" tires.

Can you turn your steering wheel easily at dead stop? I searched around and found a range of responses from folks that can turn their steering wheel with one finger at dead stop to other being nearly impossible.

I want to figure out what is normal so that I can work towards it.
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