Move Front Axle forward-Leaf Springs

boywonder · 10-02-2020, 12:11 PM

I need to move my front axle forward about an inch.....

My 285/70-17's rub the rear of the wheel well ....even after some trimming. My original Nitto Terra Grapplers rubbed a bit, but I've just replaced them with BFG KO2's and they rub even more due to more aggressive tread pattern.

My 4x4 conversion is from Advanced 4x4.

My 4 wheel drive buddie(s) have suggested sliding the axle forward and using the rear holes in the axle perch for the leaf spring pin (and accordingly drill a new hole in the top U bolt plate for the leaf spring pin as well. Simple enough other than wrestling the axle....I can drill the rear perch holes to the correct diameter and slide the axle forward and bolt everything up.....

I've also found some info online for "axle relocation plates"....these look simple enough as well....I have a Bridgeport and could fabricate these if it makes sense....

Are the downsides to using the rear perch holes (or drilling new holes in the perch)?..or using axle relocation plates?

I've looked at the entire front end stuff to anticipate any new interferences, etc and things look like it should be straightforward...other than needing to extend front driveshaft. That could possibly be solved by fabricating a spacer between the two flanges at the transfer case where the two U-joints bolt together.

My other issue is finding a flat spot where I can do this modification over a day or two......I have a sloped driveway and an HOA...

arctictraveller · 10-02-2020, 01:49 PM

Interestingly, my Advanced conversion running the same size tires barely rubs at all so there must be some subtle difference in actual size. I wasn't aware there was more than one hole in the spring perch, the D60 semi float I just removed in the rear has only one hole in the center. If you move the axle, will the spring still sit completely flat on the perch? With less support on one end of the spring, could that add more stress at the edge of the first leaf than normal? As for your front drive shaft, I'd guess you may have long enough splines that it won't matter, but it should be easy to tell once you pull it. Interestingly, I'm currently fabricating new rear bumpstops, and plan to use the original frame brackets, but I've discovered that the mounting hole is no longer centered over the axle tube and I had to move the whole assembly by about an inch. Even then, when the axle gets to full bump, it will move even more (but very little) to the rear. I suspect when I had new springs made, they ended up being slightly longer from the front mount to the center pin. That may be another way to move your front axle.

boywonder · 10-02-2020, 01:55 PM

...My front axle is a Kingpin D60.....so who knows what variations Advanced installed....

My front leafs have the following Ford P/Ns stamped in them....at the shackle end: 3C34ACA and RPN2299

I'd be curious to know if you have the same leafs. I think my conversion was done in 2010.

arctictraveller · 10-02-2020, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boywonder

I'd be curious to know if you have the same leafs. I think my conversion was done in 2010.

Nope, to begin with I can only wish I had a kingpin 60, but sadly, it's a D44. As for the springs, they are new, manufactured by Alcan spring, and the old ones went into the scrap bin as they were formed around the perch so not worth saving. Never the less, if you need new springs, they should be able to make them with the center pin moved to the front a bit.

boywonder · 10-02-2020, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

Nope, to begin with I can only wish I had a kingpin 60, but sadly, it's a D44. As for the springs, they are new, manufactured by Alcan spring, and the old ones went into the scrap bin as they were formed around the perch so not worth saving. Never the less, if you need new springs, they should be able to make them with the center pin moved to the front a bit.

Yup.....new springs with relocated pin is plan B....

I just read your Alcan spring thread too......

TheLetterJ · 10-03-2020, 12:27 PM

I made my own thinner version of these: https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero...it-3-wide.html many years ago. I didn't have any issues with them per se, but I eventually ended up removing them and redrilling my spring perches and u-bolt plates to gain a tiny bit more clearance for my high steer and new/thicker leaf packs.

Edit: looks like Mr. Watson does offer thinner, 1/4" thick versions too, but only listed in 2 1/2" width: https://www.offroaddesign.com/suspen...et-plates.html

arctictraveller · 10-03-2020, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

I made my own thinner version of these: https://www.offroaddesign.com/1-zero...it-3-wide.html ]

That looks like a super simple solution, thanks for posting. My new tires and wheels may have some clearance issues.

boywonder · 10-03-2020, 01:18 PM

I'm fabricating a pair of axle blocks right now....I'll post pics later.

1/2" thick steel......1" axle relocation. $8 for the steel and $2 for the dowel pins.

boywonder · 10-03-2020, 04:42 PM

TheLetterJ · 10-03-2020, 06:32 PM

That'll work! Good job! That's pretty much what mine looked like except that I just used an angle grinder to put the radius on the ends. I also used red loctite on the center pins, cut them flush with the block, then peened the threads... I was paranoid that they'd rattle out and fall out the bottom over time, definitely didn't end up having that problem!