Shockingly, another thread...

[ANZAC]

I don't know how much lift you have, but I'd argue even with the crappier rear leaf setups (stock, super spring, with blocks) wouldn't you need a pretty similar shock length? Why is your rig different than everyone else's?

[Roonie]

Why not go with original SMB 4x4 shock the Old Man Emu?

[BajaSportsmobile]

Looks like you have a firm grasp on the problem. Here is the deal; you have three options - find the best fitting shock you can, have custom shock made or move your shock mounts.

To find the best fitting shock or "spec" a custom shock without moving your shock mounts, focus on the collapsed length - this will dictate everything. You do not want to be bottoming out on the shocks with the wimpy stock shock mounts - you learned that the hard way. Either cycle the suspension to full bottom (need to remove leafs from the spring pack and replace with a block of same thickness, or set an Elephant on top of it (you can also use hydraulics and chains... but be careful) or you can calculate the length using High School math and get close enough. Once you have the collapsed length, you are stuck with the extended lengths that is offered for that collapsed length. If the extended length is longer than needed when your suspension is fully drooped out - you are in luck. If it is not long enough when fully extended but you can live with that amount of suspension travel; then I would recommend the use of a limit strap. While the shock itself can act as a limiter, you are again putting undue stress on the shock mounts. If the fully extended length limits the suspension beyond what you can live with - then it will be necessary to move one or both of your shock mounts. It is that simple!

Something to be aware of is that a Mono-tube shock like the Bilstein requires a longer shock body for the same amount of stroke as a Twin-tube shock. This is because the Mono-tube shock has a Nitrogen chamber above the oil chamber and is separated by an internal floating piston - that all takes extra shock body length. A Twin-tube has the Nitrogen in the external tube and is not separated from the oil - they are Emulsion Shock and less efficient.

The way to end up with a shorter shock body on a Mono-tube shock is to use a reservoir which has the internal floating piston in it and has the added benefit of additional oil and cooling.

[Skywagon]

"The way to end up with a shorter shock body on a Mono-tube shock is to use a reservoir which has the internal floating piston in it and has the added benefit of additional oil and cooling."

An example of which would be...?
Bill

[BajaSportsmobile]

Originally Posted by Skywagon

"The way to end up with a shorter shock body on a Mono-tube shock is to use a reservoir which has the internal floating piston in it and has the added benefit of additional oil and cooling."

An example of which would be...?
Bill

Try:

Bilstein: http://www.allshocks.com/bilstein/html/offroad.html
FOX Shox: http://www.foxracingshox.com/product...386&ref=filter

Both companies have great product support (including custom valving) and are offering some new shocks that are more economical that you can ask about. FOX has an Aluminum Body version that I am testing on my 05 StupidDuty. At Bilstein ask for Joel and at FOX ask for Mark (619) 768-1800 - tell them Ramsey said to bother them.

Off Road Warehouse (800) 341-7757 in San Diego, Escondido, El Cajon and Temecula carry both brands and know their stuff as well - ask for the Race and Sand Sports counter and use my name again.

I am new to SportsMobile having just bought one 9/1/11 - a 1997 E350 EB V10 2WD with PH and Refirgerator... Being a Off Road Racer and Fabricator, I will be adding my own version of a Dana 50 TTB with more of a Prerunner setup. I have owned dozens of 4X4 vehicles and this is going to be one of my favorites - I can already tell.

[twogone]

Had good luck with allshocks... talked to a human on the phone who understood all about my van. Hate to say I didn't get his name, but he was SMB familiar, much more so than I and I am totally happy with my final ride characteristics. Should also report that Chris(Ujoint) helped along the way.

Hey, I've been stuck in that very same ditch as you are in the pix at the top of the thread

[REF]

I think i may have posted this somewhere else as well, but, If you have the same or similar setup as me, you may be able to go with the bilstein 5100 series. That way there is not any converting eye-stud stuff going on and loosing what limited travel we have. In talking with one of the specialists at bilstein at the time, he informed me after trying to get me to go with the 7100 series and custom valving, that the 5100 series that would be appropriate for the van are valved very much the same as the custom job would be, plus they had the proper stud/eye setup so I did not need to convert anything and loose that valuable travel. I did find it interesting at the time that it took me 3 phone calls to their custom valving specialist to finally have him tell me they do in fact have an off the shelf shock that had the proper valving and setup. I have, as someone else also posted here, the yellow body motorhome shock for the rear and the same shock that goes in the F-150 (rear?) for my front. I can look up part numbers if I can find them. I am very happy with my setup. I went from stock shocks/springs, the way it was when I bought the van, which was terrible, to airbags and rancho 9000, also not great, to my current setup with bilsteins and deavers, much improved. I also welded up new shock mounts to get rid of that crazy angle iron job SMB did.

[jage]

No good news. Neither the Bilstein 5165 nor the 7100 have mounts that work, and even if they did the post would be on the arm not the body, so either the reservoir tube or Schrader valve would be exposed at the bottom of the shock.

Can I just use these adapters:
http://www.amazon.com/Explorer-Pro-Comp ... _rhf_p_t_1
with this shock mounted body at the top:
Bilstein (25-176100) 5165 Reservoir 23.6"/14.2" 14mm

And "custom valve" later? Is the 360/80 really going to be undriveable?

I'm running out of time, but I don't really want to drop $400+ on the wrong thing again.

Or should I just go back to the Rancho 9000s which I don't like, but which will fit? They also only run about $200, but I know they're wrong, so there is no question about wasting money...

[jage]

Bilstein proved to be less than helpful when it came to calling and discussing custom applications both times I called (both before I knew anything and after). I still don't know if the 5160s can be revalved.

After 3 days of calling Lee at Raceshock.com I gave up. I thought I was buying from him, so I waited to call:

4 wheel parts, with a part number in hand (as above) they couldn't get over not having a vehicle and year. They do stock the stem to eye conversion, and were helpful in measuring. However when it came to ordering the shocks the communication derailed again. They did call me back, just too late again as I'd called:

Chris (UJoint) who went through the whole thing with me (like the 7th time for me) and came up with some 7100s with 360/80 that fit with stem conversions and is having all the parts I need drop shipped to me- three separate packages it turns out, but should be here in time for me to get them on for Imogene. Cross your fingers.

[BroncoHauler]

Wow, what a saga.

I feel especially bad as I recommended RaceShock. Glad that U-Joint could help out though.


Herb