Spyntec vs Dynatrac

[BoxterRocks]

For those in the know.... Which free spin kit holds up best on the Dana 60 axles Dynatrac or Spyntech? Is a person better off forgetting about them and just running the factory unit bearings?

I ask because i have read multiple posts on the forums about the freespin kits failing, be it jam nuts loosening or bearing failures.

Anyone have first hand knowledge or opinions?

[deserteagle56]

First I've heard about the freespin kits failing. They are pretty much foolproof if installed properly. How can a jam nut loosen if the retaining tab that holds it in position is bent over the jam nut properly? Timken bearings don't just fail if installed properly with the correct preload and lubed properly. I'd have to say any failures would be due to improper installation.

My Dodge/Cummins dually has had the Spyntec kit in it for 16 years with not one problem.

That being said, my E350 Quigley is 14 years old with 70,000 miles on it on the original unit bearings with no problems. If ever they do go out I'll just replace them with OEM.

[mgmetalworks]

Bearing life in a freespin kit is largely dependent on the quality of bearing used and the competency of the installer. The machined components in those kits are pretty robust so pretty low probability of component failure all by themselves. With regular maintenance, there shouldn't be many issues with them. proper setup is key.

[TomsBeast]

I have first hand experience with failed, non-servicable factory Dana 60 unit bearing assemblies.



When you compare unit vs aftermarket designs, it's easy to see how larger tires and wheels put a larger bending moment on the spindle and bearings, and why spacing the bearings further apart (than the factory unit unit) is a HUGE improvement. Add serviceability and the Dyna and Spyntech check all the boxes. It turns out that all the 'brodozer' truck owners either live with it, or do the upgrade.



Your van gets better fuel economy too, because your wallet becomes significantly lighter , more so with the Dyna


I wound up finding a smokin' Craigslist deal on a brand new set of unit bearing replacements, for about 1/2 retail if I remember right. The guy's brodozer got broadsided before he put them in, he said he was replacing the brand x unit bearings every 15k miles or so. He sold me these new Timken units that he never got to install.

[Kibo]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

I have first hand experience with failed, non-servicable factory Dana 60 unit bearing assemblies.

I'm curious, how many miles do you typically get out of replacements? I had one replaced around 170k miles, but the van had smaller tires (265/70R17) back then. I didn't have an option of going with Dynatec or Spyntec at the time (in the middle of a vacation with 1200mi to drive home), but I'd consider them next time around...just wondering when that "next time" might be.

[TomsBeast]

Originally Posted by Kibo

I'm curious, how many miles do you typically get out of replacements? I had one replaced around 170k miles, but the van had smaller tires (265/70R17) back then. I didn't have an option of going with Dynatec or Spyntec at the time (in the middle of a vacation with 1200mi to drive home), but I'd consider them next time around...just wondering when that "next time" might be.

I’d certainly replace the one that didn’t fail , now... I mean, it’s got the same 170k miles as the failed one, right?

[Kibo]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

I’d certainly replace the one that didn’t fail , now... I mean, it’s got the same 170k miles as the failed one, right?

Absolutely. I was planning to do ball joints soon, and looking to do it all at once. Question is, do I stick with unit bearing or splurge...hence the longevity question since the other one is relatively new.

[TomsBeast]

Originally Posted by Kibo

Absolutely. I was planning to do ball joints soon, and looking to do it all at once. Question is, do I stick with unit bearing or splurge...hence the longevity question since the other one is relatively new.

Another wear item is the needle bearings that are inside the spindle, that support the Dana 60 stub axle. Those needle bearings ride directly on the stub axle shaft, once they wear out from lack of lubrication (bearing grease at service) the dry needles chew a groove into the stub axle shaft.


My 285/75-16 on 16 x 8's aren't some huge brodozer combination, most guys get away with the premium Timken unit bearings just fine, but I don't have enough miles on my 10k lbs camper since the rebuild to say. When I looked at doing it, the Dyna and Spin options were tempting, but it came down to cost and how many miles I predicted putting on it. If I ever sell it, the spindle upgrade isn't likely to add to the monetary value, so there's that.



When I rebuild mine, one was dry and squeaking so I replaced both unit bearings, both grooved and wobbling stub axles w/new stock ones ($190 per side), one was loose so all 4 ball joints (Moog w/grease fittings $100 x 4), and new brakes. I got some deals as I mentioned and think I spent $1500 in parts. It's a big job if you do it yourself, like I did, get some steel toed boots and a 3lb mini-sledge, tie rod pickle fork, etc.



If you go with Dyna serviceable spindles and bearings, their larger matching stub axles ($2300), the good Dyna serviceable ball joints ($750), new brakes while you're at it, you can spend $3.5k just collecting your box of parts, before ever getting grease under your nails. Labor has to be $1500 if you sub it out. Don't forget to inspect and replace loose tie rod and pitman arm ends, steering damper, u-joints and get an alignment.