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Old 10-27-2008, 08:08 PM   #11
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When I had my trans pan replaced, I also went with Amsoil's trans fluid. The warranty on the trans was almost up so I wasn't worried about not using Ford trans fluid. According to Amsoil, their fluid meets Ford specs. Purely subjective, but I think the trans shifts smoother with the Amsoil.


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Old 10-28-2008, 11:59 AM   #12
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Thanks Herb. I might have jumped the gun on the Mag-Hytec plans. It seems the cheapest I can get by with rear end work is $500. Has anyone ever gotten by paying the low range? Never. Wish I knew how to work on rear ends. Too many shims, dial indicators, gear marking dye, etc. for the likes of me. I wonder if replacing the clutch pack and spider gears requires the whole tear down and setup? This I must discover. If not, then with play-by-play instructions, I suspect I could do it myself. But if it involves setting pinion depth and all that other moneky business, then its definately not for me. Just not comfortable driving down to Baja with a rear end that is suspect.
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:07 PM   #13
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I think if you're not changing the ring and pinion the backlash or whatever is the same- just make sure everything goes back exactly where you removed it from (shims, spacers, etc.).
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:14 PM   #14
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Thanks Jage. I'm definately wondering if this is something I can tackle (out of my comfort zone for sure). I sent a note to Dan at Dynatrac to see what his thoughts were (and to get any tech sheets). I wish these were the removable third member kind like some others. Sounds like I need a dial indicator, a special pinion socket and some other items I don't have handy. I just dunno.
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:29 PM   #15
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Talked with my mechanic buddy. He says its no big deal, like you said Jage, to change out spiders (just pull a pin and they fall out into your hand). Clutch pack isn't much harder (pull an axle and install the clutch pack). No mess'n with nothing. I'll wait to hear back from Dana, but assuming this is fact, then I'm going for it. Yes, I'll take pics.
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Old 10-28-2008, 12:30 PM   #16
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Yeah, I've never tackled messing with gears and the multitude of settings that go along with it. Wish I knew how though.


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Old 10-28-2008, 12:38 PM   #17
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Well, just got off the horn with these guys and they confirmed, its not big deal to change out clutch packs and/or even spider gears. Gonna order up a clutch pack (he really didn't think spiders were going to be the problem), switch it out and see if that cures it. If not, then I'll move on to the spider gear swap. If not, then I'm buying an '09 and putting all my SMB stuff in it. Here's the link for a clutch pack in case anyones else needs to go this route at some point. Add a $7.50 gasket, and some fluid and if this works, I'm way ahead in the game as opposed to the $500 low quote I got from a trans shop.

http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=660

Edit: DO NOT USED MARK WILLIAMS ENTERPRISES: They gave me totally inaccurate information and stick you for shipping charges even when it was their fault. What a waste of money.
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Old 11-05-2008, 12:40 PM   #18
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West Coast Differentials helped me very much (1-800-510-0950). My '03 has a Trac-Lok diff and its 35-spline. If you need to know what's you gots, just get the number off the tab (b/t the two most right bolts on the diff cover) and call up WCD.

So, options:

Clutch pack (under $100). Would likely fix my noise issue, but I would still have a less then desireable rear end (don't say I should take up jogging).

True Track (Eaton/Detroit): Way better than what's in there now. Gears instead of clutch plates. I have some concern about our icy and curvey roads.

ELocker (Eaton/Detroit): Push a botton its locked. Push a button its open. Aprox $100 more than the True Track.

ARB: Nah.
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Old 11-06-2008, 08:06 AM   #19
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I hadn't read your original message or thread but just reviewed it. It sounds like the same problem we had about 3-4 years ago...a grinding noise from the rear end when turning from a stop. It was more pronounced if I had been driving on a freeway for a while. (Mike Quigley once told me that some noise from the limited slip is typical,
especially when turning after a stop at the bottom of a freeway
exit...driving a long way on the freeway apparently lets the oil drain away
from the clutch pack and it is therefore "dry" when you make that first
turn....at least, that was what I understood him to be saying.)

It turned out to be a "blown out" limited slip clutch pack. I can't find the invoice right now but it occurred under the original Ford warranty so it had to be at less than 36,000 miles. Unfortunately, something didn't get put back together properly and a year later that something got loose and ended up ruining the gears, seals, etc. Fortunately, that repair was also covered by the extended warranty...
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Old 11-06-2008, 10:26 AM   #20
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Well, I've spent a fair amoutn of time researching this issue now. Our Trac-Lok is considered by many to be the worse LS diff out there (only two spiders, only two tangs on the clutches, etc.). So, I've decided to put on my Sunday boots and best hat and go to the big city tomorrow where I'm having a diff shop remove my Trac-Loc and install a Dana Power-Loc differential (4 spiders). Shop was wililng to install a new clutch pack in my Trak-Loc for only $225. Can't beat that. But I dug further asking about other options. He claims they can install a fresh clutch pack in a Trac-Lok in a rig with bigger tires that gets used off-road (abused perhaps) and they are often back within the year for a new clutch pack. Do the same with the Power-Loc and they won't see them back for several years if ever. Confirms what I found out on the Web as well. So, since I already have the Spicer clutch pack for the Power-Lok, it makes sense for me to go this route. A fresh (not new) Power-Loc is going to be $250 + $150 install and fluids. For the math-challenged, that's only $400 (would be $100 more if I didn't already have the clutches). So, since I'm not some rock crawler type, but rather someone that often tows some heavy loads, this is the route I'm taking. I've read and read and gotten some good advice from Scatter, but I'm not confident enough to tackle setting up a diff yet (even though this would only likely require setting backlash, if at all). What I'll do for the rest of you wonderful miscreants, is I'll take pictures of the entire process. What might prove most useful to some of you is if you plan on installing a different diff (Power-Loc, ARB, Detroit, Eaton, OX, etc.), you still have to set backlash to .006-.010. Sometimes, if the backlash is really off, then you've got to set pinion depth too (I believe). I'll document that procedure for ya'll, if it will help ya'll.
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