Transfer case refill bolt

[gzzd]

It looks like I have an atlas ii transfer case leak. The plastic see through tube looks the same above and below the zip tie so I believe it basically is out of oil.

My first priority is to change the oil so I can track how fast the leak is. According to the service manual, I am to fill from the upper connection of that tube into the transfer case.

My silly little problem now is that I can't figure out how to open that point. It looks like it has two pieces to it: one inner screw that goes into transfer case and an outer one that connects to the tube.

My best guess off how to open it is to unscrew the inner one while holding the outer one still do the tube won't rotate. Is that how you guys do it? I couldn't get the inner one to move and don't want to damage the thread.


Also, I noticed this screw cap right next to the tube. It wasn't on very tight. What is it for?

[gzzd]

Blue screws


Screw cap

[Pete320]

Do not unscrew the blue fitting that goes into transfer case.
Unscrew blue fitting that is attached to red aluminum elbow,
that is attached to the site tube. Be careful when tightening
back up, you don't want to over tighten aluminum fittings.

Can you even see through your site tube? I would replace the site tube
as well if you can't see through it clearly?

This is from a diff thread but will help you:

CHANGING FLUID IN ATLAS TRANSFER CASE
• Change Interval: every 20,000 miles
• Lubricant: 2 qts Amsoil 75-90 Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube – GL4 (Product MTGQT) – It is honey colored and in clear plastic bottle – Front Differential is 75-90 but “Severe Gear” and in black plastic bottle – don’t get them mixed up
Talked to Atlas about proper way to fill T-Case:
• Easiest method would be to drain fluid out bottom opening drain plug (7/8” socket – ½” drive) – take note of drain plug – it has small rubber gasket inside washer – don’t disturb - lube drains out pretty easily into 5 gal. bucket
• Take off upper end of “fill tube” at the rear of the T-Case - you will need to disconnect speedo wire and make sure to re-attach it when done – some oil will drain out this tube
• To remove top sight tube connection, you will need 11/16” & 5/8” open end wrench
• Fill “Oil Safe” container up with 2 qt. lube and route inlet over top of T-case, you will need a helper to do the pumping while you hold inlet tube in place – pretty easy to pump, works well
• Will need Teflon tape to re-tighten fitting, don’t over tighten as you are dealing with aluminum fittings – should see level rise up to old mark on sight tube
• Remember to reattach Speedo wire

[gzzd]

Thanks a lot Pete.

So I'm supposed to first detach the hose so that I can unscrew the outer blue fixing?

[Pete320]

You should be able to unscrew the blue nut while it is attached to the elbow and sight tube.
Slowly loosen it up and it should move freely while staying attached to the elbow, you don't have
take the site tube off the elbow, you can leave it all attached.

[gzzd]

Hmm. I'm not able to unscrew the blue nut without also turning the entire elbow. Maybe I'll have to take it to the mechanic and hopefully he has better luck.

Also, I just noticed that I bought a 75-90 mtf at GL5 (not GL4) . Anyone knows if that's ok?

[Pete320]

I would spray some penetrating oil on the blue nut and elbow. Let it
soak in really well! It looks like you have good amount of dirt and grit between the
blue nut and the elbow. Try and spray the penetrating oil to loosen it up a bit.
You could also use a wrench to hold the elbow while you loosen up the blue nut!

[BajaSportsmobile]

Those are basic AN Fittings (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread).

Just unthread it - you can't hurt anything! That is how you will figure it out.

If you don't want the 90* tube to rotate with the nut, then hold the tube - it is a swivel fitting.

The oil is fine.

[gzzd]

Thanks for all the help!

Turns out the previous owner had filled it all the way to the top (3.5 quarts), which is why I couldn't see anything through the sight tube. Hopefully that's why there was a leak. Perhaps through that screw cap that wasn't entirely on.

Thanks again!
Marcus

[gzzd]

Took the van from SF to death valley and back without any noticeable leak in the transfer case gauging from the sighting tube, which is great.

However, I noticed that the box next to the transfer case in the direction of the engine was suspiciously wet and actually had a slow leak if I run the engine. Several of the hex screw bolts were loose. The box says sportsmobile on it and I'm guessing it is the transmission (is it?).

Another theory is that (part of) the leak could have come from the transmission and traveled backwards on the outside of the transmission and transfer case when driving until hitting rear axle and then get splattered across the under body.

I will tension those bolts and change the transmission fluid and hopefully this is resolved. Does anyone happen to know at what torque to use on "those" bolts (sorry, no picture yet)? I might call SMB directly and ask.

Marcus