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Old 03-24-2018, 08:42 AM   #11
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Yes, I have spare drive shafts for all my 4x4's except my 1970 Scout 800 which I am presently converting to a 6.2 Diesel. Drive shafts are very expensive because you need 2, so I have always acquired them from projects or wrecking yards and modify/rebuild them. I spent $1000.00 on both shafts at the time when only one was going to set me back the full amount. Considering that you can purchase a complete rear D60 or Sterling for $3-500.00 dollars and a complete front 60 for $6-800.00, that is expensive in my opinion! I have a T.F. in it that was the reason for the post. It is a 2x4 automatic with the Quigley adapter. I did not want to hinder the factory warranty and besides that is how Q was doing the conversions for Ford at the time.

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Old 03-24-2018, 09:34 AM   #12
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Old 03-24-2018, 10:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanimal View Post
Yes, I have spare drive shafts for all my 4x4's except my 1970 Scout 800 which I am presently converting to a 6.2 Diesel. Drive shafts are very expensive because you need 2,
I've never understood why drive shaft's are so expensive. To modify one, you only need to cut it to length, face the ends square on a lathe and re-weld. Ballancing could be an issue though, but if you keep the ends alined, it will probably stay ballanced. Anyway, since you carry spares, I'm wondering if you have ever had a failure? The only failure I've ever experienced was 40 years ago in a Corvette while grabbing second gear rubber. The shaft twisted and did all sorts of bad things. Have you experienced any failures?
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:05 PM   #14
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No failures but then again I never wanted to have one fail in Baja. Back in the day there were miles between outpost (villages). Having participated in chasing at the 1000, 500's over the years, we always had a spare shaft and never used one, but the same went for transmissions. I have cut and welded my fronts at times since they are low speeds and have locking hubs but only on my crawlers. The re-tubing and or dbl cardon joints are the expensive parts but cutting down and rebalance is reasonable.
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Old 03-24-2018, 02:43 PM   #15
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What do you mean by flaking?
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:07 PM   #16
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A few photos of the Transfer Flow behind/next to an NP272 transfer case. It's a tight fit; I actually had to cut the exposed threads off the front tank strap bolt since it was hitting the output shaft flange on the transfer case. Despite the close clearance, I've had this tank in for the last 100,000 miles and never had any interference with the transfer case.

The back end is a different story. It fits around my Sterling 10.5 rear axle, but when installing Agile Offroad's RIP, I had to relocate the upper damper mount on the cross-member about 1" to the left/back. Bilstein builds their dampers with the body on the bottom, while Fox puts the body on top. This difference necessitated additional clearance.

If you manage to find one of these tanks, a downside that you should be aware of is the weight. Not only are you carrying more fuel on board, but the tank itself is weighs about 150# versus maybe 30# for a stock stamped-steel unit.
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