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Old 02-04-2022, 04:20 PM   #11
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I would think over the 4:88 & 37, I have the U-joint 6" 4.56 on TOYOS 35 she drives 65 MPH @ ~ 2.4 RPM. Wouldn't want a higher center of gravity, I do have a rooftop, rack and solar. 35 also touches the leaf's a bit on tight turns, 37's may need wheel spacers.

Driven across powdery sand-dunes a few times and didn't need my rear OX, 4WD and 28PSI seems to handle it all. Front locker may be an overkill.

Looking at my invoice, I notice the following additions.
U-Joint puts a really nice Diff vents PN 25892279
You'll need the OX 125" cable
He also replaced my fuel sending unit PN E5TZ-9J306-BA
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Old 02-04-2022, 06:49 PM   #12
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If your going to go 37’s BFG KOs are the only thing Justin @ Ujoint Colorado will recommend & you’ll have to run a 1” spacer to no rub the leaf springs in the front. I rub mine with 35 Toyo RTs. But I plan on going to 37s as soon as I wear out the 35’s.

I need to follow your build thread. What engine are you running? If diesel you might not need to re gear. I know they say you should but we put 37s on Vinnie & he was fine so im not planning a regular.

Personally you know how you’ll use your rig so you know what’s best. Next week Justin is putting in my ox lock & moving my Eaton in the front. I know I’ll need it here in colorado on some stuff as I’ve need it in my Jeep & the van is much bigger and heavier.

Good luck with the build ��
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Old 02-07-2022, 09:34 AM   #13
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loper: Thanks for the input. After doing some more research over the weekend and with some help from mgmetalwokrs I am strongly considering doing a Late model Sterling 10.5". I would be happy to have a bulletproof rear end that didn't require spacers.


Nick: Yeah I totally get that and agree that I would prefer to keep it lower. I had originally never wanted to go about 35's but since the lift is 6" I feel like the 37's fill the wheel well a bit more and give it a better look. It probably won't be worth it just for looks especially since the leaf springs will settle some and help out with the tire to fender gap. I am sure the OX locker and front E-locker are probably overkill but from past experience with lockers, it's better to have them and not need them to need them and not have them! Also thanks for the added notes from your order at U-Joint.


MSD: Thanks for the tips about the tires! I'll most likely go 35's and see if in the future I want to upgrade to 37's after having it converted for a while. The van has a 5.4L so I'll for sure want to regear. I just looked at your build thread you recently started and I'll for sure be watching it all come together. I'll be watching to see your van get up on 37's.
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Old 02-07-2022, 11:55 AM   #14
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I thought you had to have a 8" lift to run full size 37"s
I know Derek (CCV) has a 8" lift. Chris at U joint says 8" also. Would be awesome to be able to run 37"s with a 6" lift.
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Old 02-07-2022, 12:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilnuts2 View Post
I thought you had to have a 8" lift to run full size 37"s
I know Derek (CCV) has a 8" lift. Chris at U joint says 8" also. Would be awesome to be able to run 37"s with a 6" lift.
Well with everything with vans that can be debated. Justin at Ujoint Colorado runs 37s on his 6” lift. But only recommends running BFG KOs.

I plan on doing the same when I wear out my Toyos moving up to 37s & not changing my lift or going up to 8”. An 8” lift is a bit much & doesn’t really make the van any more capable over an 6” lift.

If doing a CCV 4x4 is in the works I wouldn’t recommend an 8” lift especially if your planning on doing a buildout inside. Weight goes up fast & drivability will go down on the hwy. This goes for any 8” lift.

Which leads me to coil vs leaf spring. I know off topic… My other van is lifted about as high as Derek’s Van (1/2 lower) so basic the same lift & weight is sitting at 10,000 lbs. I tend to have to replace the front coils every 2 years in order to keep great (not good) hwy drivability. Justin at Ujoint drove my coil lifted van the other day & said it was the nicest coil van he’s ever driven.

After having both coil & leaf sprung 4x4 vans & i have driven every upfitters vans on the market. When I was at CCV I had the ability to take vans out for shake down drives (usually a30 to 35 mile drive) after build outs or pop tops. My preference is a Ujoint van over all others. Top 3 are Ujoint, timberline, CCV. You mileage my vary…
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Old 02-07-2022, 12:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilnuts2 View Post
I thought you had to have a 8" lift to run full size 37"s
I know Derek (CCV) has a 8" lift. Chris at U joint says 8" also. Would be awesome to be able to run 37"s with a 6" lift.
It seems with some modifications you can get a 37's to fit on a Ujoint 6" lift. Like MSD said Justin at Colorado U-Joint runs 37's and the main U-Joint in North Carolina has also done a few on 37's on a 6" lift. The biggest modification seems to be the backside of the front wheel wells. Here is a video of one of them.

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Old 02-07-2022, 01:06 PM   #17
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Not sure if it's been said yet, but the reason Justin recommends 37" ko2's is because they run on the small side.
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Old 02-07-2022, 01:51 PM   #18
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motovan_mn: Thanks for adding that into the thread. I did know that but forgot to mention it.

From a quick search, it looks like
37x12.5r17 KO2's are supposed to be 36.5x12.5.
and for comparison,
37x12.5r17 Ridge Grappler's are supposed to be 36.77"x 12.52".
Granted real-world numbers are probably different.
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Old 02-07-2022, 02:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aarcaris View Post
motovan_mn: Thanks for adding that into the thread. I did know that but forgot to mention it.

From a quick search, it looks like
37x12.5r17 KO2's are supposed to be 36.5x12.5.
and for comparison,
37x12.5r17 Ridge Grappler's are supposed to be 36.77"x 12.52".
Granted real-world numbers are probably different.
I think he said they sit closer to 36" even, but don't remember for sure.
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Old 02-07-2022, 02:35 PM   #20
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I think you're right. I want to say it was closer to 36.2 or smaller. Those other numbers were just pulled from tiresize.com
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