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Old 02-10-2022, 11:06 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by mgmetalworks View Post
As far as you've taken your build, IMO upgrading to a Sterling 10.5 in the back would be a good idea. Especially if you're thinking of 37s.
This.. I highly recommend the Sterling... Also be sure to include onboard Air compressor. and a rear locker.

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Old 02-10-2022, 11:15 AM   #22
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Mgmetalworks, I would like to ask on a semi float axle can't aarcaris have chrome moly axles made. Would this be an alternative to swapping a Sterling? Seems like less work and maybe cost as 4.88 would require yet another $1000 + cost in switching axles. Of course that is if he already has gears in the 60SF.
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Old 02-10-2022, 11:39 AM   #23
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OP - do you know the weight of your van?

All this talk of semi-float vs full float has me worried! We are not planning a huge buildout in our van and won't be towing heavy very often (if at all). But I'm sure everything will add up - roof rack, roof top tent, and some basic slides in the back for cooler, MTBs, etc. I'd guess our van is going to end up at less than 8,000 lbs fully loaded when all is said and done...


I'm intrigued by this talk of chromoly axles though. Maybe a happy medium that I should try to work in while the van is getting converted?

Sorry to derail the thread...
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Old 02-10-2022, 11:43 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Vanimal View Post
Mgmetalworks, I would like to ask on a semi float axle can't aarcaris have chrome moly axles made. Would this be an alternative to swapping a Sterling? Seems like less work and maybe cost as 4.88 would require yet another $1000 + cost in switching axles. Of course that is if he already has gears in the 60SF.
No, and the Sterling is Wider so he woudl not need Wheel Spacers to get it all to track correctly. IF hes not after the Stronger and wider Track then just stick to the Dana and run spacers. But i woudl just get the Sterling and never think about it again.
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Old 02-10-2022, 12:03 PM   #25
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I understand what you are saying but some of us have too much invested. I ordered mine with a SF in 02, why didn't really think ahead. I didn't want the hubs sticking out I know stupid. I have an 4.30 gears I put in it and may go with a locker (locked up front). I like the rear tires tucked in the fenders I have flares but never felt I needed to install them. My front is wide enough for what I need 2"s each side and the tight rear helps in keeping from the wife hitting curbs on right turns!
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Old 02-10-2022, 03:11 PM   #26
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Vanzila: Thanks for the addition vote for a sterling 10.5" with a locker. So far it seems like the best option to make it super solid and never worry about it again. Also, I'll for sure be doing OBA, just have to decide which route I want to go.

Vanimal: The idea of Chromoly axles is intriguing. For me personally, I think the sterling will be the better option in the long run. For one I have a completely stock rear end right now, so no matter what I will need gears and a locker so no cost savings there. Plus I really like the idea of having the front and rear track width match with the same bolt pattern. I know spacers will do the same, but I have been going off the mentality for this entire build of just doing it right once and then not thinking about it again. For sure not the most cost-conscious mentality, but it's where I'm at!
If I already had lockers or gearing done I would probably feel very different.

motovan_mn: I haven't weighed the van yet. I've been trying to get over to a CAT scale for the last few weeks, but life keeps getting in the way. I'll hopefully have some time soon to run over to one and get a real weight. From doing some light research on here it seems like I have seen a few people with problems with their SF 60 with a full build. I am leaning toward doing the sterling mainly so its done the beefiest and best way possible and then just never have to think about it again.
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Old 02-10-2022, 11:50 PM   #27
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Definitely Sterling 10.5" rear. Curious what made you decide on an OX locker vs ARB, one of the Eaton's, etc?

What brand of gears does UJOR use; Richmond, Yukon, Nitro? Having just re-geared my F350 with Yukon 4.88s then Nitro 4.88s (because Yukon whined like a mutha...Richmond is far worse), I'd highly suggest Nitro if you have a choice.

RSC brakes up front are the biggest, but it's unfortunate you have to pay such a large sum to get them due to the '99-04(?) front axle, vs using a '16+ front axle with larger OEM brakes and larger knuckles too.

BTW, love the cleanliness of your interior, very well done!

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Well with everything with vans that can be debated. Justin at Ujoint Colorado runs 37s on his 6” lift. But only recommends running BFG KOs.

I plan on doing the same when I wear out my Toyos moving up to 37s & not changing my lift or going up to 8”. An 8” lift is a bit much & doesn’t really make the van any more capable over an 6” lift...

After having both coil & leaf sprung 4x4 vans & i have driven every upfitters vans on the market. When I was at CCV I had the ability to take vans out for shake down drives (usually a30 to 35 mile drive) after build outs or pop tops. My preference is a Ujoint van over all others. Top 3 are Ujoint, timberline, CCV. You mileage my vary…
I don't want to start a tire debate, but aarcaris, do you research before you spring for BFG K0's or K02's; there are far better tires out there for less money, which are actually manufactured round (a shock I know, LOL) and thus don't have the BFG balance issues, nor the cupping issues that often occur.

I enjoyed my UJOR 6"/35s, but I was still new to Ford vans at that point. It improved going from Bilstein's to Fox 2.0" (so 2.5" would be even better if properly tuned), but the steering radius got to me. Best I've driven is an MG/ExpoVans coil conversion. Far more confidence-inspiring than an SMB. I would have liked to have driven an Agile TTB before they stopped production though.

Can someone remind me what an E250 with UJOR requires vs an E350?, as I don't see mention of it here. It's been awhile, but I remember Chris saying in an early video why an E350 (frame, etc) vs E250/150.
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Old 02-11-2022, 05:15 AM   #28
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Can someone remind me what an E250 with UJOR requires vs an E350?, as I don't see mention of it here. It's been awhile, but I remember Chris saying in an early video why an E350 (frame, etc) vs E250/150.[/QUOTE]

As far as I understand there is no difference between the E250/350 the difference is with the 150 in regards to the frame & mounting points.

Chris & Justin both recommended OX on there builds & tend to use Yukon’s I’ve never had any issues with my Yukon’s in my Ujoint conversion.
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Old 02-11-2022, 06:35 AM   #29
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Can someone remind me what an E250 with UJOR requires vs an E350?, as I don't see mention of it here. It's been awhile, but I remember Chris saying in an early video why an E350 (frame, etc) vs E250/150.
When I spoke with Justin a few months ago, I believe he said the E150 has different body mounts and narrower rear leaf springs. The 250/350 should be the same.


If you check out the UJOR CO thread on ExPo you'll see that Justin's personal rig is an E150
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Old 02-11-2022, 08:37 AM   #30
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mk216v:
I decided to go with an OX locker for two main reasons. One that it was recommended by Chris and Justin ant U-Joint due to them having numerous problems with ARB air lockers leaking. Secondly, because I had air lockers in my old Land Rover Discovery. They worked great and I loved them until they developed a leak causing it not to engage. So after a little more research, it seemed like the way to go. Also why not an Eaton in the rear is because during that additional research I learned more about how an E-locker works. I wasn't aware before but found out about how when the locker is engaged and the wheels roll backward it came to take up to a half of a wheel revolution to re-engage. So seems like for the money you might as well just go with a solid mechanical locker like an OX locker.

Yeah, the cost keeps adding up especially since it's a later year and has RSC.

Thanks for the compliment on the interior Build! I'm hoping I can get the outside to the level of detail the inside has!

Tires: Yeah I have some family and friends that have had bad experiences with the KO2s, but then others seem to love them. I have run Nittos in the past and really liked them, so I'm leaning for sure more in that direction.

Shocks: I am planning on ordering my shocks separate from Accutune and getting them custom valved to the van. I also have debated going with the 2.5 Resi shock due to the weight of the van but we will see where I land once I order.


MSD:
That is my understanding as well. I remember reaching out to Chris at the end of 2019 to ask what vans he would recommend and that is what I remember him saying. The only thing I can't remember is if it was also associated with the model year as well. I kind of think it was the later models 2008 and up maybe 250 and 350 shared frames, but could be off on that.

I am glad to hear you have had a good experience with the Yukon gears!


Motovan_mn:
That sounds similar to what I remember Chris telling me a few years ago.
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