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Old 06-05-2022, 03:19 PM   #11
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I would gave suspected that they switched over to the Blue Sea ACR by then. So you could be correct, the manual was not updated. Also the different locations sometimes did different things. If the ACR is back by the inverter, you just have to make a plan to remove stuff to give yourself access. This of course is a royal pain in the as*, but there is not really any way around it.

Take some pictures

-greg
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Old 06-05-2022, 03:48 PM   #12
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Enclosed photos in the back near the inverter. Removing the ACR seems scary. Any other way of limiting the amps to the lithium batteries?
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Old 06-05-2022, 04:29 PM   #13
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Yes, unfortunately they are using the ACR terminal as a bus bar. Nothing wrong with it electrically but it makes changing things difficult. Yes, their are other ways, but they too, would run into the same problem.

No one said it would be easy.

-greg
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Old 06-14-2022, 03:57 PM   #14
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Much gratitude to Scalf77. I have switched the battery monitoring from the Blue Sea ML-ACR to Battle Born BIM. It took a few hours and required the removal of the van's couch. All said it went smooth. No surprises. The batteries are staying at 13.4v and I think the alternator is now protected.

One question:
If the alternator puts out 220amps, and the van's engine uses 30amps. Then the Cabin's battery can take up to 190amps from the alternator. These numbers are from Fitz' posts a few years ago. The engine's battery has a 150amp fuse to the BIM for charging the cabin's battery. This was the fuse that I photographed earlier in the posts. I should be blowing this fuse every time I charge with the alternator. So what am I missing?
Thanks again for the collective wisdom.
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Old 06-14-2022, 04:47 PM   #15
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Late to the party but I also have the Blue Sea. Battle Born was happy with it (checking memory) because it routed through a Magnum inverter setup. Could be wrong about why they said it was ok. At any rate, the master does charge with the van engine.
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Old 06-15-2022, 05:40 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salim View Post

One question:
If the alternator puts out 220amps, and the van's engine uses 30amps. Then the Cabin's battery can take up to 190amps from the alternator. These numbers are from Fitz' posts a few years ago. The engine's battery has a 150amp fuse to the BIM for charging the cabin's battery. This was the fuse that I photographed earlier in the posts. I should be blowing this fuse every time I charge with the alternator. So what am I missing?
Thanks again for the collective wisdom.
So the chances of your alternator actually putting out the full load would be unusual, it would be dependent on a large battery bank, and high depth of discharge. The area where most damage is done to the alternator is at idle conditions, particularly start and stop in hot conditions. The output of alternator at idle with Lithium is more current than it was designed to cool.

The bigger issue, is over charging your lithium battery, especially if your alternator has a high voltage output. Once charged fully Lithium needs to have the charge turned off, or go down to a reasonable float voltage. So the BIM will ensure that you don't overcharge the battery, and also disconnects periodically during it's charge cycle. The other common method would be to use a DC to DC charger, that again monitor voltage, the current can be regulated ( either programmatically or by size of the unit).

Another method that is being used is to use an inverter hooked up to alternator Van battery and provide a secondary AC input to your Shore power charger. So you would supply enough AC power to run the charger in your inverter/charger such as a Magnum which is fully capable of being programmed for lithium batteries. This method can work really well with larger output alternators, where you are not worried about conversion lose. This is used a lot in the Transit world, commonly referred to as the Orton method.

-greg
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