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Old 04-20-2022, 01:14 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
My plan after welding it is to keep a close eye on it. If it begins to crack again, I will definitely add some additional steel, but I don’t have an easy way to fabricate any plates at this point. By the way, GVT first thought the photo was art and did this 😂
It's a very moving piece

I'll beat Robb's offer by the way. I'll go $1750 on it but you have to zip tie that crack shut.

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Old 04-20-2022, 06:41 PM   #12
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I wouldn't give him that. Obviously he removed the lead. Says clearly to crimp and heat shrink to existing lead. If he let this happen there's no telling what else is hiding in the shadows. Some people just refuse to read the instructions.

Good point. I looked up KBB and it's only worth $3500 with a good frame!

Lowering my offer to $930.
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Old 04-20-2022, 06:53 PM   #13
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What appears to be rust, is actually just a buildup of paint. I do like the idea of stop drilling the crack, I hadn’t thought of that. I tried to mig weld it on the first go around, but I couldn’t get any penetration, so I ground it all out, and I have been experimenting with stick welding. I have yet to try it on the frame, but my first go around with 6011 on a piece of scrap steel did not go well at all, my machine doesn’t seem to like it. 7018 seems to work better,
What type of welder are you using? I would think my 120v Vulcan 140 from HF would be able to do the job. HF also have a great little stick welder that would probably work as well.
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Old 04-20-2022, 09:55 PM   #14
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What type of welder are you using? I would think my 120v Vulcan 140 from HF would be able to do the job. HF also have a great little stick welder that would probably work as well.

Ive got a new Lincoln 210 MP, a multi process mig,tig,stick welder. The main problem is likely that I’m a terrible welder despite a lifetime of trying.
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Old 04-21-2022, 08:21 AM   #15
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Ive got a new Lincoln 210 MP, a multi process mig,tig,stick welder. The main problem is likely that I’m a terrible welder despite a lifetime of trying.
Thinking about the problem some more, you probably don't want to try and plate the frame as that might be a way to trap water and promote more rusting.

There are standard ways to build up welds as in the following two videos. The idea is that you don't need a lot of buildups as the strength increases quickly with added thickness. For example, doubling thickness is way overkill. You can also build up the profiles smoothly which further helps to distribute the loads away from the current point of fracture.

Grinding the welds smoothly can also help to give a smooth profile without any danger of getting water/rust behind a plate.

Horizontal Fill Pass Techniques: Multiple Stringer Beads | MIG Monday


How to Stack Your Beads When Stick Welding


My recommendation is to not experiment here but rather find a qualified shop or mobile welder that can apply some of these techniques to strengthen the frame in this particular area before you get some catastrophic failures and make it harder to repair.


See the bead profiles at 1:42 min of the first video
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Old 04-21-2022, 02:03 PM   #16
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[QUOTE=My recommendation is to not experiment here but rather find a qualified shop or mobile welder that can apply some of these techniques to strengthen the frame in this particular area before you get some catastrophic failures and make it harder to repair.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I'm pretty clear on machine settings, bead profiles, electrode angle, undercuts, etc, but the big issue is that I can't seem to get a consistent bead, they look like bird crap instead. The 6011 electrode I'm trying won't even stay lit unless I bury it into the puddle to the point of nearly touching the base metal. I've got a copy of a welding procedure specification used in the refinery industry for the process I'm using that specifys all the weld parameters, but it hasn't made any difference to the quality of my beads on practice plate. Years ago, I ran some stainless stick rod that put down textbook welds, and I tried to use that stuff for the final exam in a welding class, but the instructor wouldn't allow it and said I had to use common 6010. I'm guessing the rod I have (a new, unopened box) is part of the issue, but I agree with you, "I need to seek professional help" I'll follow up once it's done. Thanks....................
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Old 04-21-2022, 02:50 PM   #17
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Hate to ask but it sounds like you don’t have your gas on (been there done that)

Sorry when you mention electrode I guess you are doing stick.
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Old 04-21-2022, 03:02 PM   #18
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Hate to ask but it sounds like you don’t have your gas on (been there done that) Sorry when you mention electrode I guess you are doing stick.
Any MIG welder has forgotten the gas once or twice, but yes, I'm running 6011 1/8 stick rod.
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Old 04-21-2022, 04:42 PM   #19
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If you are in So Cal, I know a welder in OC I would trust to repair that or tell you it is a bad idea.
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Old 04-21-2022, 04:52 PM   #20
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If you are in So Cal, I know a welder in OC I would trust to repair that or tell you it is a bad idea.
Thanks, but I'm in Wa state at the moment.......
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