Absolute max interior width on an Econoline?

[photokit]

I am 5’10” and I have the bed going across the back. If I’m alone I tend to sleep on a diagonal if I’m with my partner I sleep on my side and I’m really quite comfortable

[BCam]

Originally Posted by seal

MY EB has just under 73" metal to metal @ 20" when measure just behind the side door opening. Does anyone make window flares for the econoline similar to the one available for sprinters?

Thanks - With the panels, mine measures 67" so I'd gain 6" minus whatever wall treatment I use.

[fordsarefun]

Does it have a rear hvac system? the side panels carry the Ducts for the heater

[dieselnutjob]

Originally Posted by fordsarefun

Does it have a rear hvac system? the side panels carry the Ducts for the heater

My wife says that she will want a pop-top on it. Therefore if it happens to come with rear AC I can't see it surviving.

[1der]

Originally Posted by dieselnutjob

My wife says that she will want a pop-top on it. Therefore if it happens to come with rear AC I can't see it surviving.

Please keep the rear HVAC if your van has it especially a cargo, , it will all still fit with a pop top and it will be greatly appreciated when needed.

[BenJJ]

Originally Posted by dieselnutjob

My wife says that she will want a pop-top on it. Therefore if it happens to come with rear AC I can't see it surviving.

If you have CCV do your pop top you can keep the rear AC if desired. They just re-plumb the duct facing outwards on the end of the cut-out and then move the rear control knob as well.

[LastBlackE350]

Originally Posted by 1der

Please keep the rear HVAC if your van has it especially a cargo, , it will all still fit with a pop top and it will be greatly appreciated when needed.

We used our front / rear HVAC this past weekend after shore power at Deception Pass State Park started dropping during a snow storm and 26 degree temps. Plan B's are important.

[dieselnutjob]

Originally Posted by LastBlackE350

We used our front / rear HVAC this past weekend after shore power at Deception Pass State Park started dropping during a snow storm and 26 degree temps. Plan B's are important.

ok I get the message: rear AC=good

Gotta find a van first

[dieselnutjob]

My plan to import a van to the UK has hit a complication.
I have been searching for the right van for nearly a year and one came up in a salvage auction.
I am extremely fussy on the spec for reasons I have posted elsewhere, so I am thinking that another one isn't going to come up any time soon, certainly not at this price.
The hit that I took today is that I paid carinspector.us for an inspection, which they were supposed to do yesterday but they emailed late last night and said that they didn't do it and would refund me.
The problem is that I now have to decide whether to buy this van sight unseen or not.
I paid for a carfax report and it indicates that (as I thought) that this van has been in California it's entire life.
The photos seem to indicate an extremely clean body. I have high res images that show exactly what I would want, a dent in one door, paint that looks like it hasn't been messed with (so nothing hidden), no signs of rust in the rockers, rear quarters or arches. I can so what appears to be a small defect on the top corner of one rear light cluster.
I think I can see nails holding up the front of the headliner so that's a worry as it might indicate damp.

I am thinking that on a California vehicle, with no rust in the rockers, doors or arches that the probability of rust in the floor or frame is very low. Is this correct?

This van will be cheap (it's salvage) but it will cost me $2000 to get it to the UK.

I am hoping that the van has mechanicals that can be saved, but I have now a rescue plan if not, because I have been offered a van already in the UK with known good mechanicals, electrics etc etc but in a body that has to be destroyed (mandated by UK government).

So lets say that I buy this salvage van, I get it in the UK and then after spending $4000 on it it turns out to be a total bust. My parachute is that if it has a good shell then for $6000 I will have a running and driving nice van.

Lets say I needed a floor section, I could even cut it out of the condemned van (not rusty) and weld it in, provided there's something to weld to (I have a welder and I can use it).

If it has a good shell. What's my risk factor here? it seems lowish. or am I kidding myself.

[BrianW]

If it’s being truly sold as salvage there is some reason why it’s there, obviously. Is it definitely “salvage” or is it just at a regular auto auction? (Two different types of auction.) Cars primarily end up at salvage auctions due to accidents, which would be obvious in photos. The salvage auctions are usually run on behalf of insurance companies that have “totaled” the car from an insurance viewpoint and then they sell it for residual value. In this case, there is some other reason besides body damage, which would worry me more than something that’s obvious. Some salvage auctions will state the reason, but I guess that’s not the case in this. More troubling possibilities include flooding, fire, etc.

No way I’d buy a salvage vehicle sight unseen, unless it was super cheap or I had a specific need from it like body parts or whatever. $4000+ is not super cheap IMO.