Adjusting side barn door closure

Clarkboulder · 07-19-2022, 08:11 AM

I have noticed that my 1996 E350 SMB primary side barn door is not opening as easily as it used to. The handle needs to be pulled to an extreme now. Something has happened. Is there an adjustment method for getting this back to normal handle action? I can't seem to see anything to adjust and nothing seems visibly loose or out of alignment but there must be something wrong. Thanks in advance.

Twoxentrix · 07-19-2022, 09:42 AM

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ads-12324.html

Clarkboulder · 07-19-2022, 10:09 AM

There are some rabbit holes here for sure. Maybe "adjustment" was not the right word. I get the sense (and have had suggested) that the cable mech is worn or something. The forward door (60 of the 40/60 or right-handed side) handle (exterior handle) eventually opens the door but only at the extreme of its range of movement. It feels like you are going to break the handle to get it to unlatch. So I am wondering if there is a cable adjustment point or do I just need to purchase new cable assembly and replace. Also does the cable work both the interior and exterior handles or are they separate? The problem seems to be with the exterior handle.

SheepShagger · 07-19-2022, 07:08 PM

On the cable, it’s very normal for the plastic ends to rot, when they do they slip through the lock mechanism making the door hard to open or impossible. I replaced the plastic ends with ally ones, very cheap to do, but time consuming since you need to pull out the handle and lock and then replace the cable ends.
This is what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRNNMA7...roduct_details

larrie · 07-19-2022, 09:36 PM

The exact same thing happed to my side door earlier this year. Reasonably easy fix although some of the parts that need to be removed are awkward to get to.

Kibo · 07-28-2022, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SheepShagger

On the cable, it’s very normal for the plastic ends to rot, when they do they slip through the lock mechanism making the door hard to open or impossible. I replaced the plastic ends with ally ones, very cheap to do, but time consuming since you need to pull out the handle and lock and then replace the cable ends.
This is what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRNNMA7...roduct_details

Very cool, I didn't know those exist so I wouldn't have known to look for them!

Clarkboulder · 07-28-2022, 10:45 AM

Thanks all for the help. Unfortunately it’s not the cables. I dug into this over the weekend and the cable ends are all intact. They look brand new actually. When I manually tug on the cables the door opens perfectly so it’s not the latch mechanism either. So this leaves the exterior handle mech. It seems worn such that it’s not getting the throw distance that it’s designed for and therefore it doesn’t actuate the cable and door latch easily. This handle is riveted into place so not so simple to replace and test. Any experience with this? The handle part seems somewhat inexpensive. But it’s the drilling out of the rivets and replacing with screws that seems a pain and maybe risky.

Kibo · 07-28-2022, 10:59 AM

Come to think of it, I had the same problem with the rear door handle when I bought my van. If I remember correctly, there was something worn on the handle that prevented it from pulling the cable far enough to release the latch. Rather than replace the whole license plate / handle assembly, I remember there being a simple fix with the existing handle--but I don't remember what it was, and apparently I didn't take any pics (d'oh!). I suspect the issue (and fix) may apply to the barn door handle as well.

I'll see if I can pull it apart this afternoon, figure out what I did, and take some pics for you. Weather pending, of course (rain in the forecast, as you probably know).

Clarkboulder · 07-28-2022, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kibo

Come to think of it, I had the same problem with the rear door handle when I bought my van. If I remember correctly, there was something worn on the handle that prevented it from pulling the cable far enough to release the latch. Rather than replace the whole license plate / handle assembly, I remember there being a simple fix with the existing handle--but I don't remember what it was, and apparently I didn't take any pics (d'oh!). I suspect the issue (and fix) may apply to the barn door handle as well.

I'll see if I can pull it apart this afternoon, figure out what I did, and take some pics for you. Weather pending, of course (rain in the forecast, as you probably know).

Kido, that’s exactly it. My door still opens but it’s just harder to do and foils friends and family into thinking it’s locked. (Anti theft device?). I did add some spacers to the cable above the end to trick the mechanism into having less distance to move to trigger the latch but for whatever reason it didn’t solve it. Had virtually no effect. I don’t see any offered parts or replaceable parts in the handle beyond replacing the handle and the handle would be super hard to access without drilling it out. Different than the rear lic plate situation. I look forward to whatever you figure out. Longmont eh? I’m In Lafayette.

Kibo · 07-28-2022, 08:44 PM

It was a bit more work than I remembered getting to the rear door handle, but I managed to get some pics before it got dark. Please pardon the dust--dirt infiltration is a real thing!

The problem in my case was a loose hanger holding the cable housing end to the handle. The blue arrows in this photo point to the bracket, which runs behind the white piece:

In stock form, this bracket wiggled around enough that the cable pull from the handle was barely enough to open the door. Interestingly, there was a hole in the middle of the bracket--so I added a screw (green circle below), and this solved the issue:

I typically would have just bought a replacement part, but this was so cheap and easy and has been working fine for years.

So while I don't have any familiarity with the 60 door handle, it seems unlikely that this solution will have an analogue for your issue.

You mentioned that your handle is riveted, but interestingly mine appears to have screws holding it in place from the inside of the door (based on threads I can see from the outside). Perhaps mine has been replaced at some point? If the rivets are anything like those that hold the lock actuators in place, it's really not a big deal to drill them out. The handle should be PN 8C2Z1526604BD, and can be had pretty cheap. Don't forget to buy some rivets too (Ford PN W525172S417, but I'm sure you can use much cheaper generic rivets that are the correct size).