Cab Floor soaking wet, Help Please!!

[JWA]

First of all you DO NOT need to remove the dash to find a body leak as you're describing.

With a helperRunning a garden hose without pressure around the windshield area with the van fully assembled (as you'd daily drive it) crawl around inside the front cabin with a bright flashlight looking for signs of water. Since you didn't list what year van you have I would advise removing the A Pillar trim pieces so you'd be able to see an leaks originating along the top and down the sides of the windshield as installed. Once you've done that please let us know what you've found.

At this point there's no need to consider replacing the windshield---its an unneeded expense so far and might not sure the problem. Yes the upper corners where the A Pillars join the roof have been known to separate causing leaks. Typically those are much easier to see because you'd find water drops on the seats or on the floor just in front of the seats---most times.

Once you've located the leak we'll be better able to help. FWIW I'm a former body shop owner and currently in the auto/truck glass business. I can share some insights in how to best proceed.

HTH

[Chinook]

Originally Posted by JWA

First of all you DO NOT need to remove the dash to find a body leak as you're describing.

With a helperRunning a garden hose without pressure around the windshield area with the van fully assembled (as you'd daily drive it) crawl around inside the front cabin with a bright flashlight looking for signs of water. Since you didn't list what year van you have I would advise removing the A Pillar trim pieces so you'd be able to see an leaks originating along the top and down the sides of the windshield as installed. Once you've done that please let us know what you've found.

At this point there's no need to consider replacing the windshield---its an unneeded expense so far and might not sure the problem. Yes the upper corners where the A Pillars join the roof have been known to separate causing leaks. Typically those are much easier to see because you'd find water drops on the seats or on the floor just in front of the seats---most times.

Once you've located the leak we'll be better able to help. FWIW I'm a former body shop owner and currently in the auto/truck glass business. I can share some insights in how to best proceed.

HTH

Tomorrow i finish up the door panel swap and then i start on finding the leak. I did glance at the rain gutters and they do appear dried out and the the sealer is cracked. Once i get the door panels done i will have a better look in the daylight. If its all cracked and dried out and i dont find anything else i will probably have a body shop lift the camper shell up off the frame and redo them properly and then repaint the cab, then take it to a marine shop and have the camper shell re-gel coated. I will let you know asap what i find out for leaks...

The reason being is because the camper shell overhangs the van roof and theres only about an inch between the rain gutters and the camper shell.

[1der]

Flashlight or bright light on the outside shining in the engine compartment and cavities forward of the windshield when everything is dry and it is dark outside. Move the flashlight or light source around. Climb inside and have a look under the dash. If there is light, you will have at least one source of a leak.

[mikracer]

I had a leak that came from one of the seams on the floor. I put some JB weld on it and I haven't had the issue since. I checked EVERYTHING before trying the seam and nothing fixed it. I would have never guessed it was leaking from where it was.

[Steve Hunt]

I once had completely soaked carpet front and rear in a car and chased it for months. So much water I assumed some major leak but in the end figured out that water droplets were riding in on a single strand of 18g non OEM wire that a previous owner had put in for something. It was shocking to me that so much water could make its way in on a single wire the way it did.

[maptester]

I had a similar unknown source leak that soaked the pad in the front. Finally found the leak from a body join in the firewall directly behind the gas pedal. I removed everything I could and applied Eternabond to the join and many, many coats of brush-applied sealcoat. I did this both inside and outside. Here is a picture of the area behind the gas pedal.

[Chinook]

Do you think an automotive bodyshop grade seam sealer would seal these leaks long term versus all these other remedies? I used some on some wheel tubs in a hotrod years ago and that stuff was tough as nails once it was cured.

Its just such a miserable deal. Sealing the bad spot on the inside leaves the bad spot exposed on the outside where the water is, eventually its going to rust and rot away at those locations if the crack or whatever is causing it isnt sealed on the outside. I think finding the bad spot and then brushing some bodyshop 3m seam sealer over that area would be the best solution. Provided you can even reach the bad spot.

[maptester]

I used a small can from a hardware store--something similar to Flex-seal (as seen on tv). I did find the leak area on the outside and also covered it with Eternabond and sealant, many, many coats. I am hoping it lasts a long time--not exposed to sunlight or too close to the engine heat.

[2006E350]

Did you find your leak... Also check the welds inside the fender area. Mine was leaking from the weld area behind the fender I sealed around the weld area no leaks since. But I do have a rust spot inside where it was coming into the cab. I cant get to it to well because everything is in the way fuse box wires I did the best I could scraped it and sprayed Rust-Oleum rust inhibitor on it.

[Chinook]

No i got busy doing other projects. I kept telling myself finding the leak was next on my list but the weather went cold before i got to it. Its supposed to be up in the 70's next week so i will try to get to it then.