Hi-top reattach and reseal and repair rust E350 2001

[fddjr1]

Hello All, Thanks for the detailed information here in this post. I've done a paint/rust removal once 5 years ago with our trusted shop, but it didn't involve removing the bondo at the gutter-roof joint. The rust has creeped back again and I wanted to better treat it.

I just wanted clarification on how it would work if I did some of this prep on my own and then took to our shop to paint.
1) Remove existing paint on roof side
2) remove bondo at joint.
3) remove paint on gutter
4) sand/treat rust with one of the products mentioned in this post
5) prime paint metal if the rust treatment isn't also a primer.

My question now is what is the order of reapplying things to finish:
5) Paint Gutter and roof area with paint and heavy clear coat
6) apply 3M 5200 to joint area between gutter and roof.

Not sure if it should be this order above, or:

a) rust treat/prime metal
b) apply 3m 5200 to joint area between gutter and roof, then
c) paint gutter/roof are with paint and heavy clear coat.

Any input from the experienced folks on this forum would help a ton to help me determine order of operations and how much I would do myself vs have the shop do maybe.

[hogasm]

Use 3m 4000uv instead of 5200

[antmanbee]

Well I finally got my roof "glued" back down.
I used loctite marine adhesive/sealant. I had tested several caulks and this seemed to be the best to me. A combination of firmness, flexability, drying/skinning time and strong adhesion.
I sealed it all around the outside first and then the next day sealed it on the inside.
I still need to screw it to the steel lip on the perimeter of the van. Before they used self-tapping sheet metal screws about every 6 inches.
I am going to use #10 stainless machine screws with oval heads and 1/2 washers to distribute the load on the fiberglass, and use nylock nuts and washers on the inside. I am going to space them every 18 inches and caulk each screw as it is inserted. I think the caulk around the perimeter inside and out, by itself would make it next to impossible for the roof to come off.
I am going to put a 2" patch of eturnabond tape over each screw head to further seal it from any water intrusion.

[kikisadventures]

Out of curiosity, does the hightop sit in the rain gutter or inside/on the roof? It's hard to tell from pictures. Thanks

[antmanbee]

This hightop sits on the inner edge of the rain gutter. the old steel top of the van is bent up slightly down the sides and the hightop is screwed into the remnants of the old roof.
See the 3rd picture down. The black steel edge next to the caulk is the edge of the old roof.

[kikisadventures]

Thanks for that antmanbee! That makes sense

[antmanbee]

I'm close to ready to paint the fiberglass top. I have repaired most all the stress cracks and questionable areas. I ground out a small channel along the cracks and filled with glass impregnated bondo and painted over with primer.
I am going to roll on Rustolium marine deck paint in semi gloss white.
I want a little bit of texture but not so much as bedliner.
I also repaired the area over the back doors. I had to cut out a little sheet metal and weld in a new piece.

[marret]

Looks like it is coming along. Thanks for sharing.