ISO E350 roof material

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by BenJJ

The thing that gets me is the fancy workout classes, so expensive. Then you end up paying some absurd monthly amount and they never go... might as well go in the backyard and light money on fire every month.

Danger Will Robinson, Danger!!!

Do you want your wife to ask you if you prefer her fat? You're on a steep slippery slope with a shark pit at the bottom of the slope. The sharks even have 'frickin' laser beams on their heads.


Herb

[gahamby]

Yeah, go ahead and tell the wife any of that. Get the roof of the van fixed first cause that's where you'll be sleeping.

[SierraHawk]

If there are no holes in the rusted area grind off the rust. Start with a wire wheel to get all of the rust flakes off. Then use a sander (what ever you have around) to take it down to bare metal. You might want to get some Naval Jelly if you prefer an easier way to remove rust. Make sure you have three days to let the treatment dry and apply the Rustoleum rust treatment. It is in a small white plastic container and can be brushed on. Cover all of the rust and let it dry. The steel will turn black. After three days you can apply a coat of primer. Follow the instructions and apply a color of paint that matches your van. Find a shop that specializes in automotive paints and get a can of their two part clear coat. Apply the clear coat. Let it dry. And go for a drive.

[86Scotty]

Originally Posted by gahamby

Yeah, go ahead and tell the wife any of that. Get the roof of the van fixed first cause that's where you'll be sleeping.

Thanks for the laugh amigo!

[krgracia]

Go to Monstaliner do-it-yourself roll-on truck bed liner outperforms Herculiner Bed Liner, Duplicolor and Rustoleum Road Warrior and see if any of the Chassis Saver products apply in your case. I had significant rust along the roof gutter, also on the location a previous owner mounted something heavy on the roof, several holes on roof (about size of a US dime) and on floor (swiss cheese there from pinholes to the size of a US nickel) plus a decent size rip along the rear passenger wheel well floor seam - those I patched or filled with Metal-2-Metal (Evercoat®).

[brp]

Welding that sounds like a major pain to me, and I am a welder. You are going have a lot of paint work, maybe a burned headliner, a lot of grinding if you want to make it look nice.

My suggestion would be a to cut a patch that overlaps the hole by about 1.5". Then I would use butyl tape and rivets to fasten it down, without leaks.

McMaster has sealing rivets and butyl tape, they call it, "non-hardening caulk."

I don't know what gauge metal the roof is, but you might be able to find some snips to cut out your damaged area, meaning no heat, metal shavings or sparks flying in your van.

One tip, if you use tin snips / aviation snips, stop short cutting the full length of the blade for each cut...so each cut is about 3/4 the length of the blade. This will prevent nasty sharp edges/points.

You could also use a Whitney Punch or similar so you don't have to drill rivet holes in the existing roof material, just an idea so you don't accidentally punch through a headliner and again no shavings.