LineX drip rail wrap for rust.

[RingTheAlarm]

Looks awesome...been contemplating doing the same thing myself. I'm also curious to know what the required prep was...

[Glider]

Line-X has a number of videos on YouTube showing how they do the prep work. With non damaged painted surfaces, they typically scuff the existing paint to provide sufficient profile for the Line-X to bond well. On bare metal, I believe they acid etch, prime and then paint with the Line-X material.

That said, having talked with multiple Line-X dealers at this point, I have discovered that each dealer does things a little bit differently. Moral of the story: ask questions, and be sure that whoever is doing the insulation is doing it in a way that makes sense to you.

[tortorelli]

Going on 8 years now for the line X (found a receipt) . The only "breakthrough" I saw recently was in the very rear drip rail, a small rust spot was poking through the line X. After grinding it out with a Dremel, it looks like that spot had been applied quite thin. After grinding, I coated 2 coats of Herculiner, since it's readily available at Lowes. The different texture is hidden from view, and it bonded well.

[Greyswann]

While beginning to mount Ray's custom Fiamma brackets to my 2004 Ford i discovered I had a serious rust problem at the rain gutters. The Penthouse install was done at SMB Fresno 5 years ago and I am convinced that they ignored the rust beginning on the inside edge of the gutter filler material and placed the protective tape right to the edge of the filler. A perfunctory inspection reveals rust under the tape extending up to within 1/4 in of the top of the tape and in some places (i hope not extensively) completely penetrating the top metal. I obviously need to attack this now, and the Line-x idea sounds ideal.but I dont know what to do about the rust. Can Line-x do this and can i trust their work? From experience on an old 77 Chevy van I know how insidious this can be and how much work it is to remove the old filler (days with a chisel and hammer) So any great body men or women out there with guidance? Thanks

[SheepShagger]

Originally Posted by Greyswann

While beginning to mount Ray's custom Fiamma brackets to my 2004 Ford i discovered I had a serious rust problem at the rain gutters. The Penthouse install was done at SMB Fresno 5 years ago and I am convinced that they ignored the rust beginning on the inside edge of the gutter filler material and placed the protective tape right to the edge of the filler. A perfunctory inspection reveals rust under the tape extending up to within 1/4 in of the top of the tape and in some places (i hope not extensively) completely penetrating the top metal. I obviously need to attack this now, and the Line-x idea sounds ideal.but I dont know what to do about the rust. Can Line-x do this and can i trust their work? From experience on an old 77 Chevy van I know how insidious this can be and how much work it is to remove the old filler (days with a chisel and hammer) So any great body men or women out there with guidance? Thanks

No, line X will not stop rust. You need to remove all material (paint & seam sealer) treat rust and repaint and reapply seam sealer. Then line x ontop. On the van gutter, once rust sets in, there is no stopping it without going back to metal and proper prep.

[BroncoHauler]

If you're asking if a LineX franchise will do metal repair, not that I know of, but it can't hurt to ask. The other alternative is to do the work yourself. If you can do a fair job of the metal work, bedliner will help hide any imperfections, and by doing it yourself, you will know no shortcuts were taken.

There's a good thread on this forum about DIY Raptor spray-in bedliner.


Herb

[Greyswann]

thank you SheepShagger and Herb for taking the time to answer. As Herb surmised I am aware that covering rust with anything is a very temporary fix. Even POR 20 is far from magic. And now I know that the Line-X shops are all individually owned and body work is likely hit or miss. So I have decided to use a highly recommended back yard body guy for the rust and prep paint. Then if I'm feeling adventurous i may go with Raptor or default to one of the local Line-X dealers (probably smarter). Thanks again for the advice

[JWA]

^^^POR-15 when properly applied is at minimum long lasting---every place I've used it has held up at least 8 years living in Ohio.

[Greyswann]

Thanks Tortorelli. I shamelessly copied your idea and it came out perfect. I powered through the gutter filler removal and the rust removal and POR15 application (small holes fixed by dipping 4 lb fiberglass cloth in the POR 15, another stolen idea) The Chula Vista Line-x did the work. They do a lot of custom work on truck and off road vehicle bodies. charged $450 and I have no idea how that compares but after chasing the problem for years on a 77 Chevy G20 hightop I just wanted one and done. Looks very cool too. Lower panels next?

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by Greyswann

Thanks Tortorelli. I shamelessly copied your idea and it came out perfect. I powered through the gutter filler removal and the rust removal and POR15 application (small holes fixed by dipping 4 lb fiberglass cloth in the POR 15, another stolen idea) The Chula Vista Line-x did the work. They do a lot of custom work on truck and off road vehicle bodies. charged $450 and I have no idea how that compares but after chasing the problem for years on a 77 Chevy G20 hightop I just wanted one and done. Looks very cool too. Lower panels next?

No, no, no, no, no. You can't post up like this and not include any pics. Unacceptable.


Herb