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Old 02-01-2017, 10:35 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Flux View Post
I believe I will stick with the coating and ask if they can smooth it a bit, but either way it sounds like folks are pretty happy with this stuff.

I have seen beat down gel coat, it's not fun and it's a costly repair.

I'll ask about the hardware thing. Seeing as how they seem to not be able to figure Stainless Steel and all.
Good choice. One of the best reasons to get the liner is that it can FLEX!! Paint will usually develop spider cracks causing issues later down the road with leaking and can be a burden to upkeep like everyone has stated. If they use a true Line-X spray they have a new lighter weight one that is smoother and designed for spraying whole cars that would probably be better for you, not sure what its called off the top of my head. I have only used Raptor liner that I have done myself and by using a higher pressure in my cheap Upol gun was able to achieve a much smoother texture.
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Old 02-01-2017, 04:53 PM   #12
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This has been on my list to do for quite a while, and I hope to finally do it this spring. One question I have: I have Thule tracks to install basically along the length of my EB PH top (in prep for solar install also on the list). Should I install the tracks before spraying (covering them with tape), or is it better to install them after the liner is sprayed? I assume if I install after the liner, that I'll have to smooth out the liner surface somewhat to get the tracks to fit tight against the top.
I would install them first and tape them off. That way they are sitting on the smooth surface of the top and not sitting on top of the spray.
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:10 PM   #13
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You're really overthinking this.

HERE IS THE ANSWER
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Old 02-01-2017, 08:53 PM   #14
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Good choice. One of the best reasons to get the liner is that it can FLEX!! Paint will usually develop spider cracks causing issues later down the road with leaking and can be a burden to upkeep like everyone has stated.
I have spider web cracks in my 2014 SMB penthouse top with whatever it was coating they applied (started cracking over a year ago - I had posted on here about it at the time). I am not happy about that.

A more robust coating may be a better investment. My $0.02 and probably worth about that...
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Old 02-01-2017, 10:17 PM   #15
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This has been on my list to do for quite a while, and I hope to finally do it this spring. One question I have: I have Thule tracks to install basically along the length of my EB PH top (in prep for solar install also on the list). Should I install the tracks before spraying (covering them with tape), or is it better to install them after the liner is sprayed? I assume if I install after the liner, that I'll have to smooth out the liner surface somewhat to get the tracks to fit tight against the top.


Install after. Much easier and cleaner. No problems getting tracks etc to sit flush as the liner flexes enough. The one thing I did do is coat the yuuuuge washers on top cinching them down with a nut/bolt and butyl tape first, then spray, then remove nut/bolt and use a fresh stainless one on final install. If I do another I'll use Gooseberry's SS hardware again. Good stuff.
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Old 02-02-2017, 07:39 AM   #16
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Install after. Much easier and cleaner. No problems getting tracks etc to sit flush as the liner flexes enough. The one thing I did do is coat the yuuuuge washers on top cinching them down with a nut/bolt and butyl tape first, then spray, then remove nut/bolt and use a fresh stainless one on final install. If I do another I'll use Gooseberry's SS hardware again. Good stuff.
Thanks. I bought a set of Gooseberry's hardware a year or so ago, planning to replace them when I lined the top.

I'm not 100% clear on what you suggest, though: are you saying line the top with the existing (old, original SMB) washers and hardware, then remove that hardware after lining and put the new ones on?
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Old 02-03-2017, 09:50 AM   #17
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Having just done a full restore and install on a penthouse I can definitely recommend the raptor liner. My top was an old junkyard Find with many spider cracks in the coat. It took me 2 days to prep it. You won't need but a couple hours if this is a new top.

Anyways I went with black because I thought it would look cool but I am already realizing how much heat that traps. Hopefully the solar and cargo box will shade it enough. A light color is a good option. I installed all my hardware after spraying including the Yakima tracks. The tracks were designed to have a 1"x1/8" bytul tape applied underneath and have no doubt about its water tightness.

As mentioned the raptor can be sprayed in any number of ways depending on the variables you change: air pressure, distance sprayed, and reducing agent, or apply with a roller I didn't give a whole lot of consideration to this because it was on the roof and just went for it. If you want to really do yourself a favor, spray the roof of the van as well. Those Ford rain gutter always flake and rust. The added friction of the penthouse won't help either. I even went so far as to fill in the center rain gutters so the front seal closed tight when the roof is down. No water rushing underneath.

Due to some mistakes, ahem happy accidents , made while painting the roof I am likely going to raptor the entire van. this stuff does not come off . Seriously tape and mask everything you don't want raptor on.
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:45 PM   #18
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Having just done a full restore and install on a penthouse I can definitely recommend the raptor liner. My top was an old junkyard Find with many spider cracks in the coat. It took me 2 days to prep it. You won't need but a couple hours if this is a new top.

Anyways I went with black because I thought it would look cool but I am already realizing how much heat that traps. Hopefully the solar and cargo box will shade it enough. A light color is a good option. I installed all my hardware after spraying including the Yakima tracks. The tracks were designed to have a 1"x1/8" bytul tape applied underneath and have no doubt about its water tightness.

As mentioned the raptor can be sprayed in any number of ways depending on the variables you change: air pressure, distance sprayed, and reducing agent, or apply with a roller I didn't give a whole lot of consideration to this because it was on the roof and just went for it. If you want to really do yourself a favor, spray the roof of the van as well. Those Ford rain gutter always flake and rust. The added friction of the penthouse won't help either. I even went so far as to fill in the center rain gutters so the front seal closed tight when the roof is down. No water rushing underneath.

Due to some mistakes, ahem happy accidents , made while painting the roof I am likely going to raptor the entire van. this stuff does not come off . Seriously tape and mask everything you don't want raptor on.
You're the first person I've found who's also done the roof. That's what I want to do as well. A couple questions:

1) Was one 4L kit enough for the top and the roof?
2) Did you spray both the penthouse top and the roof at the same time or separately? What was the sequence like?
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Old 08-15-2017, 11:35 PM   #19
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I'm not 100% clear on what you suggest, though: are you saying line the top with the existing (old, original SMB) washers and hardware, then remove that hardware after lining and put the new ones on?
Yes, that will work fine.

Flyview, I squeezed enough out of 2 bottles to do an RB top. I used 3 and was much more generous on my second top, an EB. I would think a 4th would easily do your gutters and all surrounding the top. I haven't added to Raptor Liner but they say you can just go back and add more after it dries, just in case you run out and have to buy more. It blends in.
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Old 08-18-2017, 03:28 PM   #20
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+1 on the raptor liner top refinish. I got the paint-matchable kit and did both the smb top and ford metal roof at the same time. Took about 2.5 bottles (make sure to get mixing gear cause the additives don't all fit inside the original bottle), used the adhesion promoter and acid etch cans to prep the surfaces. Im super stoked.



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