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Old 05-24-2020, 10:00 AM   #11
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Gee, I don’t know. Free is a very good price. If I had the room (big garage or covered space), I’d put a poptop on it and do a minimalist camping build inside. Make sure everything is lightweight and take it on the road.

Even without a poptop (I’d check with SMB and CCV first), a free van could make a great little weekend getaway vehicle. Lots of folks are happy with that. If you want a full build-out, though, all the above is good advice.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:36 AM   #12
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We follow "Keep Your Daydream" on YouTube. One of the things they tell folks to do is to "start with what you have, but just get out there". This may be that kind of thing. Invest a reasonable amount and get started, then improve incrementally.
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Old 05-24-2020, 11:40 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Otter View Post
Gee, I don’t know. Free is a very good price. If I had the room (big garage or covered space), I’d put a poptop on it and do a minimalist camping build inside. Make sure everything is lightweight and take it on the road.

Even without a poptop (I’d check with SMB and CCV first), a free van could make a great little weekend getaway vehicle. Lots of folks are happy with that. If you want a full build-out, though, all the above is good advice.
.
After thinking about this and reading everyone's posts, I agree with the no-pop-top solution unless you find something cheap and DIY. You'll learn a lot and can likely sell this one down the line and, at worst, break-even.
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Old 05-25-2020, 10:52 AM   #14
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Thanks to all. After some closer inspection and consultation I'm going to pass on this van. Lots of rust under the body, inside the vehicle, and clearly an unrepairable roof (for a reasonable amount of money). I was in serious mold denial too. Thanks for the quick responses, thoughtful advice, and balanced thinking!
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Old 05-25-2020, 10:54 AM   #15
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Thanks to all. After some closer inspection and consultation I'm going to pass on this van. Lots of rust under the body, inside the vehicle, and clearly an unrepairable roof (for a reasonable amount of money). I was in serious mold denial too. Thanks for the quick responses, thoughtful advice, and balanced thinking!
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Old 05-25-2020, 02:46 PM   #16
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This thread is a little fragmented because I merged the two threads. Having essentially the same thread in two sub-forums is confusing and unnecessary.




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Old 05-28-2020, 11:56 AM   #17
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Junk yard will give you $500 if you drive it in with a signed title. Take it and head to the yard, put the cash in your pocket and sit back for the right one to come.
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Old 05-28-2020, 02:27 PM   #18
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Just remember FREE MIGHT NOT BE A GOOD DEAL!

You gotta fix it, register it, pay tax on it, insure it, maintenance it, clean it, repair it, wash it, wax it, gas it and after all that WORK you still have to find time to USE IT!

Just remember you are NOT investing $2K in that van you are SPENDING $2K on that van. That expenditure of $2K on that van does not necessarily make that van worth $2K.

That $300.00 you git (scrap prices are way down) hauling the van across the scale might be the only profit you will ever see out of this van.

Something to consider!
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Old 05-29-2020, 08:56 AM   #19
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This van might be a great fit for you depending on some factors.
There are pros and cons to the 150. Yes it can’t handle the payload of weight the 250 or 350 can. But it is lighter and better on gas mileage and handles better than the heavier duty vans.
So you need to do the math and decide how much weight you will load it with.
Look at the door jam decal. You should find the 150 can take about 1,200 lbs of weight.
For comparison, the 350 can take about 3,000 lbs of weight inside.
So look at how many people and objects can add up to the weight and if that meets your needs.
You don’t have to be a hardcore and get the heavier thug vans or four wheel drive. This van might be your sweet spot ford designed the 150 for.
Now if you want to add a high top, those fiber glass tops are Very heavy, I think some 500 lbs or more. My van is factory normal and it’s great for road trips with everyone seated, there’s no need for a high top. High tops make the van more top heavy and kill gas Milage. If your not going to live in it, why have it. If I wanted a high top I would sell my van and get a used newer van that came that way from the factory with the sheet metal and anti roll over braking electronics.

The other thing to look at is the van is high miles although it may be capable of reasonably reaching 300,000 miles before the engine or transmission major fail especially if it’s highway miles and has been taken care of it may go even longer.
Many newer vans have more miles selling for much money.
The engine and transmission are the two hearts of a vehicle and when one fails, the cost to repair or replace can be so high that the vehicle is sent to a salvage yard burial.
1999 is a very very reliable modern good year. There are things that go wrong with an older van and need attention as you’ve pointed out.
If the power steering pump itself is leaking, replace with a new one, rebuilt pumps are not reliable.
Check out rockauto site you can see how affordable parts are.
These can be fixed very affordable by a diy who can fix their own car. Anyone in your family mechanically inclined? You fix one thing at a time and before you know it it’s all fixed and solid.Working on what is real with our hands instead of playing video games can be great for a young adult too.
Plus now youtube has so many how to videos.
You can also buy a cd on eBay that has the factory dealer service shop repair manuals to view How to anything to repair. If you fix things yourself, you will often have more value in the van if you want to sell than you have spent on it. But if you have to take it to an expensive mechanic, then the repair cost can really add up.
The roof leak might be the common problem of the roof rain gutter factory caulking needing replacement.
If so, this can be tackled over a couple of days using a heat gun and chisel to remove the old caulking. Then sand and rustoleum paint any rust and recaulk using Locktite PL S40 from a home improvement store.
However if the van is a rust bucket, look under and around the bottom of the doors. I mean if rust is eating through the body panels then you may want to pass although if you don’t mind the look, it still may be viable to use till it dies.
Never have a place do a power flush on a transmission can damage it. It needs the bottom pan properly dropped and the internal filter changed.
Change the fluid every 50,000 miles. Problem is if it hasn’t been changed in 100,000 miles or more, then the transmission can start really going out after changing.
Other problem is the person changing it has to use the right new fluid and not over fill or under fill.
Also change the power steering fluid in the pump using a turkey baster to suck the old fluid out. Then replace with transmission fluid. Repeat again after a few weeks of driving.
Do the same turkey baster suck to the brake fluid reservoir is all needed there every 3 years, replace with new dot 3 brake fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water from the air over time. Just replacing what you can suck out is what is needed and can be reasonably done.
That van is worth several thousands of dollars and they are offering for free, sounds pretty good IF you can do the work yourself or have a great affordable mechanic to.
If you have an emissions program, better make sure it’ll pass first.
You could always get a much newer van but pay thousands more and still have a water pump go out. My ex had a new jeep and the water pump went out on a trip at 40,000 miles on the stupid thing.
The water pump looks like your biggest headache, it very doable.
I always use peak LIFETIME antifreeze instead of the 5 year stuff. Only my local Napa sells it.
My 96 e350 van I lucked out and got for $1,800 with 115,000 miles on it. But it still needed a new radiator (only $120 new on eBay and I put it in myself). Also needed many little things like gas tank rubber hoses replaced (but the parts are dirt cheap and I did them myself).
Take care
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