Stripping a passenger econoline

Brawwp · 07-03-2021, 01:34 AM

How difficult is it to gut the inside of a passenger econoline to basically begin as a cargo van for a build? Are there any good videos on this? The rear a/c is what has me a little worried. Unsure of how much is involved in removing that.

I’m searching extremely hard for a low mileage econoline cargo, but I’m finding way more deals on passenger vans.

1der · 07-03-2021, 07:29 AM

Why do you want to strip out the rear HVAC?

We looked hard and long to find a cargo van WITH factory rear HVAC and would not consider any van that did not have it.

Brawwp · 07-03-2021, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1der

Why do you want to strip out the rear HVAC?

We looked hard and long to find a cargo van WITH factory rear HVAC and would not consider any van that did not have it.

We’re going to redo the walls/roof/floor. I guess I see most people gut the entire cargo area. Seems like the hvac takes up a lot of room and is hard to work around?

boywonder · 07-03-2021, 07:46 AM

Consider keeping the rear heat/AC.......you can work around it; you just have to come up with a vent scheme for the AC. It works well when you are driving on a hot day, with or without people in the back.

I built out a passenger van and kept all of the plastic intact..came out great....but I also understand why you may want to tear everything out. If you keep the plastic above the beltline you have factory trimmed out windows. I also reused the headliner after installing a penthouse top.

boywonder · 07-03-2021, 07:57 AM

Here are a few pics of the interior leaving the plastic 99% intact.

You can see a hint of one of the relocated rear AC vents in the last photo. I installed 3 of those factory vents in the top of that rear cabinet.

1der · 07-03-2021, 07:58 AM

It is mot any harder to work around than anything else in these rigs. Cooking anc heating the cave is SOOOO much better with distribution throughout the cabin vs trying to cool of heat a space 12 to 14 feet back especially when you are sitting two feet away from those dash and under dash vents blowing on high.

A passenger van is a great place to start. You save $1k or more in windows to start. And if you find one w XLT trim you get lots of convinces goodies. You get plastic trims around the windows which can be wrapped w material or painted to compliment you interior. Remove and replace the lower trim pieces but save the lower panel on the driver side. The ducting gif the heater can be used from this piece by cutting it out and adapting it into your build. Bring the heat out under your cabinets or bench. There is also a snorkel looking duct that brings the bold air to the roof vents. Save that. Cold air venting can be done by saving the headliner rear portion yo just forward iv the rear two vents or make your own plenum that connects to that snorkel duct (spoiler: do a quick read in fluid dynamics).

The rear fan/HVAC needs an opening to draw air in. The air intake is at the back of the fan unit in between the inner and outer sheet metal. Incorporate the HVAC unit location into a cabinet and it will be hidden. It really does not take up much room.

Your non driving heater should be an Espar/Webasto style fuel fired heater. It is the size of a loaf of bread. Non driving AC requires a generator or shore power or LOT$$$ of lithium batteries and complex electrical stuff to charge and maintain them.

Brawwp · 07-03-2021, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boywonder

Here are a few pics of the interior leaving the plastic 99% intact.

Oh yeah that doesn’t look bad at all. So did you pull it all to insulate/sound deaden under it?

boywonder · 07-03-2021, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brawwp

Oh yeah that doesn’t look bad at all. So did you pull it all to insulate/sound deaden under it?

Yes....Used the recycled denim insulation from Home Depot..forgot the name.

1der · 07-03-2021, 08:05 AM

Or consider Thermozite for insulation of the walls/ceiling.

boywonder · 07-03-2021, 08:16 AM

There are a few things that look unfinished when using the factory plastic, namely the slots where the seatbelts retract and the holes around the perimeter of the roof where the shoulder harnesses mount.

Over the years I've tried to cover those roof perimeter holes....with heater controller, awning accessory mount, etc. You could also make a paper towel holder using a couple of those holes..assuming that you can live with their location.