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Old 09-15-2018, 07:25 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by trekgurl View Post
... the floor's metal is paper thin so that doesn't help. I had a guy remove all the surface rust and raptor it...

Have you inspected the floor from underneath? You may have addressed the top surface of the floor, but you need to look at the underside as well.


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Old 09-16-2018, 05:04 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trekgurl View Post
I wasn't planning on too but in the process of checking the OEM rear bed rug/mat I found lots of surface rust. :-(. and so I pulled up the front mats too and as I suspected the drivers side was well on its way to rusting. I had a feeling I might be dealing with rust issues since I bought a van that started its life in Illinois but didn't think this would be on of the places I needed to be to concerned with.
If the stock floor matting pieces (both rear and front) live in any climate that's subject to humidity swings (like IL) the mats absorb moisture to the point they become saturated, never evaporating out. In turn the water-soaked mats lay against the interior metal floor for years causing unseen rust.

My own 2003 E250 EB lived its entire life in Ohio (still there) so first inspection of the cargo-only van had me pulling up a section of the stock mat to find it water soaked. Once the purchase deal was struck I flipped the mat upside down to begin drying. A week later it was still very wet--once home it was laid out on a patio deck for a whole week in the sun (no rain that week) and only then was it thoroughly dry. That was in May 2012

FF to this very week where that same mat was needed for a new floor pattern---it had been laying outside on my porch since 2012 unprotected from the weather. Unbelievably it was NOT water-soaked, pretty dry considering its storage location. All this is just saying those type floor mats absorb and trap moisture while inside a van---left outside they don't do the same thing---interesting I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trekgurl View Post
The floor looks good , but its a little slick and I noticed the raptor "gassed" stronger than I anticipated but the odor eventually settled down. These issues should not be a factor after my permanent floor system is installed.
Once cured RaptorLiner et al shouldn't continue to out gas whether or not something covers it. As often as possible leave the doors open and the smell will or should dissipate soon enough.

Another point about flooring on top of the body sheet metal--it needs to be something non-absorbent and placed so the floor ribs open areas are maintained. I've seen so many add layer upon layer of insulation and sound deadening materials thinking or hoping that will provide monumental improvements in heating/cooling and noise reduction. IMNO it does no such thing---a stout plywood floor does such a great job AND leaves the open spaces for air flow there's not a lot of improvement to be made going much further.

Put your money into the side walls and ceiling, don't forget the door cavities too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoHauler View Post
Have you inspected the floor from underneath? You may have addressed the top surface of the floor, but you need to look at the underside as well.

Herb
Good observation and it makes sense however I've crawled under my own vans after driving in rain or snow/ice and apart from the wheel wells the under side in general isn't a bit wet, not to the degree we might assume.

Having owned and seen a few Ford rusted floors it almost always originates from the top, under the stock mats as I pointed out. Mind you the cross rib just above the rear axle is prone to the most and quickest deterioration, the remaining floor area doesn't seem similarly affected.

IF the area right above the rear axle is showing signs of rust it should be addressed which involves cutting that section out and replacing with new sheet metal. Not cheap but its better to treat it soon rather than later.

That's what I know...................
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