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Old 09-11-2021, 03:02 PM   #11
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I've got a multitude of hole saws up to 5". I think i could do the best job of a good cut by using them but it will depend on finding some proper vent inserts. Anyone have any thoughts, experience or ideas on a round vent that can be closed? Multiple holes on each side of the van is fine to get the volume wanted. Automotive, residential, commercial, industrial doesn't really matter.
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Old 09-11-2021, 03:38 PM   #12
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Great minds think alike - I like simple and the hole saw was my first draw...found these on a quick search yesterday. Really liked the whole idea of vents (this has been a great Thread!)
I'm sure there is something better, but these were just a start:
https://www.amazon.com/Rotaire-Grill..._t2_B00CXBEWT4

https://www.amazon.com/HG-POWER-Adju...1395810&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Yikko-Dashboa...1395810&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-H...0&sr=8-13&th=1
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Old 09-11-2021, 03:46 PM   #13
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Again just me overthinking the concept, Also thought something like this could help (but requires the use of power, so not sure I'm inclined to add another gadget that would pull amps):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...4FKP16S5&psc=1
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Old 09-11-2021, 04:25 PM   #14
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It would be easier to cut a hole with a hole saw. The reason I didn't is the limited space.
I wanted to maximize the opening and air flow. There is not really that much room to cut into. There is less than it looks. There are a couple of braces that attach to the flat kick panel that I wanted to leave intact. Also the plastic kick panel step sits up higher than the actual lower metal step. look at the first picture and you can see one of the braces.
I think the best that could be done would be two 5" holes per side and possibly only a couple of 4 inchers would work. You have the flanges on the vents to contend with too.
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Old 09-12-2021, 05:29 AM   #15
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This is such a great idea. I would love to hear a follow up how you like it after having it installed for a bit!
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Old 09-12-2021, 05:43 AM   #16
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I like the idea but would be concerned in a stream crossing, so likely not a solution for off-roading. Also, the amount of dust kicked up on dusty dirt roads finds its way in everywhere.

The tilt out Ford OEM windows can all be passively bug screened and be operational. I am guessing the Chevy ones can be as well.
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Old 09-12-2021, 07:46 AM   #17
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Good point 1der, but using 4" deck plates may be the resolve. Only drawback would be that you'd have to physically remove or apply the cover(s).
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Au...81&sr=8-5&th=1
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Old 09-13-2021, 01:36 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1der View Post
I like the idea but would be concerned in a stream crossing, so likely not a solution for off-roading. Also, the amount of dust kicked up on dusty dirt roads finds its way in everywhere.

The tilt out Ford OEM windows can all be passively bug screened and be operational. I am guessing the Chevy ones can be as well.

On my setup the openings would be about 31" above the ground so that would be pretty deep water for my comfort anyway but i wasn't thinking I'd ever be driving with the vents open anyway because of dirt/dust as you say but also noise if on pavement. I like these 4" screw on deck lids best so far as we all talk it through. They could be water tight if needed and quieter.
As far as venting when driving you can always use the "vent" position on the dash and crank up the fan speed as needed though the dash vent air tends to be a bit warm.
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Old 09-14-2021, 02:06 PM   #19
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This is a very interesting idea. In my case though I notice a large amount of heat that soaks through the floor shortly after driving, likely from the catalytic converter, muffler and the remainder of the exhaust system. In the winter it's great and keeps the interior warm for a couple hours depending on the outside ambient temps. In summer, it really heats up the interior, so I've added even more floor insulation. I like this idea, but I would want an easy way to have a water / dust tight closure. As for dust, perhaps a fitted furnace filter would work.
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Old 09-14-2021, 07:34 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
This is a very interesting idea. In my case though I notice a large amount of heat that soaks through the floor shortly after driving, likely from the catalytic converter, muffler and the remainder of the exhaust system. In the winter it's great and keeps the interior warm for a couple hours depending on the outside ambient temps. In summer, it really heats up the interior, so I've added even more floor insulation. I like this idea, but I would want an easy way to have a water / dust tight closure. As for dust, perhaps a fitted furnace filter would work.
I hear you, I'm in FL so spent time and money fighting heat soaking thru the floor. In the original build Timberline insulated the inside floor of the whole van before putting down the finished flooring. While driving the area around the transfer case shifter got extremely hot, the floor and doghouse were too warm and should be improved to me. After parking, it got even hotter and soaked in. So I did a couple of things this summer that I feel were well worth it.
- I cut the heat shields off from underneath the catalytic converters and resonators and rotated them to above the converter and resonator similar to how Ford shields the exhaust piping and muffler. My rationalization was that Ford's design was more about shielding whatever you parked over from the extreme heat of the converter and resonator. Since the van has been lifted so much higher than stock I decided it would be fine.
-Secondly, I bought DEI's Floor and Tunnel II product and attached it to the exterior floor under the van from the rear of the transmission forward all the way around the doghouse and up the driver/passenger floor. I also took the doghouse off and put it over the OEM doghouse insulation. So all that was about $400 of material and a lot of tedious time under the van but to me it was well worth the effort in terms of heat rejection and sound deadening. This product is specifically for exterior use and they recommended it for what I described to them (design temp 1750). It's an aluminum dimpled sheet over insulating material then a self adhesive backing and you better have it where you want it when it touches something...I have no doubt it will never come off. For that reason some of the routes that you have to take to get a given piece where you want it on the underside of the van floor means that you can't always use large pieces, so it's a bit of work. You cut it with tin snips and is about 1/4" thick overall. They sell a aluminized tape for the seams if your picky like me.
....Back to the vent project we're talking about I think I'll cut a circle of this material and stick it to the back side of the screw off round deck ports mentioned in a previous post. So now just need to finalize how to mount a filter material to keep the Florida bug population outside.
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