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Old 04-30-2020, 05:53 PM   #11
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I have 4.56 gears as well, since I tow heavy. I average 12 MPG highway, but mine's a dually so that's already a penalty. And I tend to drive it pretty hard. The low gears are definitely a disadvantage when solo, but I gained 1.5 MPG towing, because with the low gears, I stay in overdrive all the time, except when climbing passes.

One advantage to 4.30 gears, is you can find front Superduty axles with that ratio. Not the case with 4.56 since that's an E-series only ratio.
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Old 04-30-2020, 06:35 PM   #12
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I hate a hunting trans for sure.

What is your gas mileage, van only?

So Quigley set it up as 4x4 with 3.73 and then you later changed it to 4.56. How much $ per end to make a gear change like that? In my case, theoretically we buy the front axle already the ratio i want and then change the rear.
Overall mileage since I bought the van 12 years ago is 11.8 mpg. That's calculated by an Excel spreadsheet I have set up, not a guess or a figure taken from a dash readout that's rarely accurate.

It came from Ford with 3.73 gears. Quigley merely added a Superduty front axle geared the same - and since Ford E-350 vans come stock with 8 x 6.5" bolt pattern wheels and the Superduties come with 8 x 170mm, Quigley added adapters to the rear axle to make it 8 x 170mm also. I've had no problems with that setup. I don't remember (12 years ago!) the exact cost but it was expensive because at the same time I had it regeared, I had the guy (local) put in ARB air lockers front and rear. If memory serves me correctly the ARBs were ~ $1000 an axle alone, not counting the gears and labor to install. Looking back after all these years, this was money well spent. Love this rig.
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2007 Quigley V-10 on 33s with 4.56 gears (Toyhauler)
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:45 PM   #13
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Overall mileage since I bought the van 12 years ago is 11.8 mpg. That's calculated by an Excel spreadsheet I have set up, not a guess or a figure taken from a dash readout that's rarely accurate.

It came from Ford with 3.73 gears. Quigley merely added a Superduty front axle geared the same - and since Ford E-350 vans come stock with 8 x 6.5" bolt pattern wheels and the Superduties come with 8 x 170mm, Quigley added adapters to the rear axle to make it 8 x 170mm also. I've had no problems with that setup. I don't remember (12 years ago!) the exact cost but it was expensive because at the same time I had it regeared, I had the guy (local) put in ARB air lockers front and rear. If memory serves me correctly the ARBs were ~ $1000 an axle alone, not counting the gears and labor to install. Looking back after all these years, this was money well spent. Love this rig.
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Originally Posted by carringb View Post
I have 4.56 gears as well, since I tow heavy. I average 12 MPG highway, but mine's a dually so that's already a penalty. And I tend to drive it pretty hard. The low gears are definitely a disadvantage when solo, but I gained 1.5 MPG towing, because with the low gears, I stay in overdrive all the time, except when climbing passes.

One advantage to 4.30 gears, is you can find front Superduty axles with that ratio. Not the case with 4.56 since that's an E-series only ratio.

Great Tribal Knowledge, big help! I think everyones info helps lead me to the conclusion of whats going to work for me all things considered. I'm going to get a Superduty front axle with the 4.30 and then change the 3.73 stock rear to match and at least do a locker in the rear while they're in there.
I can live with 12 mpg, use to that anyway. Bad drive-ability would wear me out before 12 mpg would anyway.
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Old 05-01-2020, 07:09 AM   #14
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Also, don't forget to consider combined weight ratings since you're towing:
3.55 - not rated
3.73 - 15,000 pounds
4.10 - 18,500 pounds
4.30 - 20,000 pounds
4.56 (with 10.75" or larger ring gear) - 22,000 pounds

carringb: If you don't mind, what "rating" do you mean by "3.55 not rated." My 2002 7.3 van came from the factory with 3.55. Are you saying that it was not rated for towing any weight whatsoever? Where would any rating info be? On the driver door pillar sticker or on the window paper sticker? On the driver's door pillar it says "GVWR 9400LB." What should I look for?
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2002 E350 ext.; 160K; 7.3L; 4R100 (w/4x4 deep pan & filter); 4x4 conv. w/2007 F250/F350 coil frnt axle (oppos. dual Bilstein press. shocks cured DW) diff chg from 3.55 to 3.73 (bad!); BW1356 t.c. (bad!); LT265/70R17/E Michelin LTX M/S2; Engel MT60 Combi Fridge-Freezer; 4 BP 380J pv panels; Auragen 5kw AC gen. in top alt. position; Webasto Dual-Top; Voyager top. 1995 5.8L EB Bronco, bone stock.
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Old 05-01-2020, 12:41 PM   #15
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carringb: If you don't mind, what "rating" do you mean by "3.55 not rated." My 2002 7.3 van came from the factory with 3.55. Are you saying that it was not rated for towing any weight whatsoever? Where would any rating info be? On the driver door pillar sticker or on the window paper sticker? On the driver's door pillar it says "GVWR 9400LB." What should I look for?
I'm referring to Ford assigning a GCWR to the V10 specifically. It just was never offered as an option, probably because peak torque happens higher than the 5.4L, so it might have ended up with the same or even lower GCWR than the 5.4L with that tall of an axle ratio.

The GCWR for the diesels with 3.55 gears is 16,000 pounds.
GCWR for the 5.4L with 3.55 gears is 12,000 pounds.

The GCWR tables are listed in your owner's manual.
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Old 05-01-2020, 12:46 PM   #16
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I'm going to get a Superduty front axle with the 4.30 and then change the 3.73 stock rear to match and at least do a locker in the rear while they're in there.
I can live with 12 mpg, use to that anyway. Bad drive-ability would wear me out before 12 mpg would anyway.
Before you pull the trigger on that, you might want to price-shop a used SuperDuty rear axle. One with a factory e-locker is probably cheaper (maybe much more so) than replacing your existing gears and adding a locker to that. I'm assuming you have an '05+ Quigley conversion? If so, you have adapters on the rear axle, and swapping axles will match you your bolt pattern and track width without adapters. And if you have a semi-float rear, these axles are on the weak-side, and have a pretty terrifying failure mode.
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Old 05-04-2020, 02:14 PM   #17
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Before you pull the trigger on that, you might want to price-shop a used SuperDuty rear axle. One with a factory e-locker is probably cheaper (maybe much more so) than replacing your existing gears and adding a locker to that. I'm assuming you have an '05+ Quigley conversion? If so, you have adapters on the rear axle, and swapping axles will match you your bolt pattern and track width without adapters. And if you have a semi-float rear, these axles are on the weak-side, and have a pretty terrifying failure mode.
Timberline Vans has the van (2008 V10 extended) now to do the 4x4 conversion among other things. They are going to look at pricing and availability on what you described. Thanks
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Old 05-07-2020, 12:49 PM   #18
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I have 2002 e350 with V10. Have 4.10 with 285 tires. Towing my 4500lbs trailer works fine. Towing my 7700lb trailer wish I had 4.30 gears.
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Old 05-07-2020, 01:03 PM   #19
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I've got 4:10's in mine with a 5-star tube. Mine is 4x4 high top, and I get 10 to 12 mpg on the freeway cruise control locked in at 70mph. I changed gearing when it was still a 2wd drive van and no lift, but I preferred the 4:10's even as a low top and unlifted rig.. . back then I averaged 12 to 15 MPG cruising 70 to 75 MPH.

Towing wise, I don't really tow too much, but I noticed a big difference in the switch on the low end.

FWIW!
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Old 05-07-2020, 01:51 PM   #20
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Anyone have first hand experience with 3.73 vs 4.10 rear diff ratio in a E350 V10. I will need to tow 5000 ish lb trailer weight 40% of the time and trying to decide if I need to switch from 3.73 to 4.10. The van is getting a 4X4 conversion and will run 275/70-18 tires (I think that converts to a 32-33" diameter). I've only driven the van in stock configuration 2wd 3.73 and was a little underwhelmed with the V10. I've been told the V10 3.73 setup is a good combo but adding weight to the van build, little taller tires, 5000 lb trailer...it adds up.

Thanks
IMHO you're fine with 3.73s if you just uncork the V10 and let it breathe, the stock exhaust is VERY restrictive and requires a few modifications starting with the Y-pipe which resembles more of a T then a Y. I redesigned mine using SLP 200cpi catalytic converters, eliminated the T and used a Merge Collector from Vibrant Performance, then i used a Flowmaster 50 Series SUV Muffler, next up was an SCT X4 programmer and 87 octane tune from 5 star.
The butt dyno feels like i swapped out the V10 for a V12 and it runs like a scalded dog.
You can swap out your gears and spend the same amount of money (probably more) and you won't be nearly as satisfied with the end result, you'll still have a dog for an engine and you might have some gear whine if they aren't installed correctly.
Other mods include a 170 degree thermostat, Wix 46418 air filter and D.U.I. SOS coils ($370), keep in mind my V10 is a 2008 model and it's also a Jasper reman.
The engine runs cooler, makes a LOT more power and if i keep my foot out of it, gets better mileage. My goal when building the engine was not to make more power, my goal was to reduce operating temps, increase BMEP, fuel mileage, volumetric efficiency and engine longevity, the side effect was more power.
There's always more then one way to skin a cat, this was my choice, do it like you want too..
This forum doesn't allow me to add pics in normal fashion but if you want pics send me a PM and i will give you my email..
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