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Old 05-28-2007, 03:01 PM   #1
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Custom Flat Tow Brackets for Falcon All Terrain

Here's my Toadie, although it's really a FROG. I hated using a dolly and don't always want to drag around the full size trailer to bring my toys.



I chose the "Falcon All Terrain" 8,000 lb bar by Roadmaster. One of the main reasons I chose this bar is hitching and unhitching with the old straight arm cheapie tow bar was annoying and bad for my back.

The other was I felt the "All Terrain - No Binding" would better suit my towing style, as I've been known to be off pavement with the whole show.





Here's the challenge, this aftermarket bumper only leaves 2 attachment points- the D-ring tabs and the lower bolt.



Most Roadmaster solutions look something like this:



And it's just not acceptable to me to have anything below the bumper or frame. Even the brackets these hitch into would get hung up and crushed offroad.

The second problem I had with the Roadmaster solution is there are so many connections and failure points. The vehicle bracket mounts are similar to a class III and (1) bolt to the frame of the vehicle. The vehicle bracket mounts are (2) pinned in with a hitch pin. The front of these brackets are (3) connected with two bolts to the release brackets. The release brackets have pins and holes opposite each other which are matched to the crossmember and (4) the pins through the opposite holes are held with quick clips. Then the brackets I modified are (5) attached to the crossmember with straight pins and more quick clips.

There are 5 connection points and 6 quick clips.

Instead my brackets will connect directly to the frame mounted bumper d-ring tabs.



Unfortunately the shop that did the mod didn't quite get the fit right on one and I had to remove some of it to clear the d-ring tab.



The brackets will connect to the bumper with straight tractor pins that are larger diameter than the stock pins, and the brackets and pins will wind up on the Falcon folded behind the SMB like this (the brackets are missing because I need to buy the 7/8" tractor pins)



Once I get the tractor pins I'll do a short test with the F250 and then it's off to Colorado to pick up my SMB and flat tow the Jeep back with this system.

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Old 05-30-2007, 05:02 PM   #2
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Well after an hour on the phone and 2.5 hours driving around these are the ONLY pins in Tucsion that are 7/8" diameter. Can you say "overkill"? They'll do. The bungee is just to keep them from flopping around.



Here's the final rig:


And a side shot to show the angles. I'm pretty sure the SMB is taller unloaded so this should work for the time being:

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Old 11-26-2008, 11:19 AM   #3
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Jage, can you give me some towing tips related to your experiences flat towing your jeep. I'm thinking about getting a jeep and towing it with my van. Unhitching when I get to the trail and driving the jeep and the van into campsites. It would be nice to have the jeep for day trips and leave the van at camp. I don't want to mess with a trailer so I'm interested in how well the jeep survives being flat towed. Any transfer case or axel issues?
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Old 11-27-2008, 06:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Christopher Thwaites
Jage, can you give me some towing tips related to your experiences flat towing your jeep. I'm thinking about getting a jeep and towing it with my van. Unhitching when I get to the trail and driving the jeep and the van into campsites. It would be nice to have the jeep for day trips and leave the van at camp. I don't want to mess with a trailer so I'm interested in how well the jeep survives being flat towed. Any transfer case or axel issues?
Chris, I couldn't have said it better. I plan to do the same. Jage and I like what you've done. I was planning on an automatic trany on a newer Rubicon possibly. What should I look for or avoid?
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Old 11-27-2008, 08:20 PM   #5
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Double check on the newer Jeeps, and your specific model, but you should have either the NV231 or NV241OR (Rubicon) at least from 88 to 2006, which means flat towing is pretty simple and straight forward.

You need safety chains and lights for sure, and legally are required to have a braking system in the towed vehicle. I don't think it's a bad idea, but I've never had one. I'd look into the Brake Buddy as a drop in solution.

Like any towing situation you want to be extra careful, leave extra stopping room, and realize that people respect you less the bigger you are (go figure!).

Otherwise:
Drive up (2wd)
Hook up
T-case in Neutral
Manual in 1st or Auto in Drive
Start the Jeep if it's not already running (ensures T-case is not bound)
Put the Auto in Park, leave the Manual in 1st
Turn off the Jeep, but only 1 click (Accessories - Key Out - Unlock Wheel - Run - Start (returns) ... you want Unlock Wheel)
Make sure the parking brake is off
Double Check all Connections and safety chains
Test aux lights

Remember you cannot back up. Not at all. People will say, well you can a little, or a foot or two is OK, I've even known people to put their spouse in to hold the wheel. Just don't even try it- the physics are all wrong and you'll break something or stress something that will let go later.

Remember you can always unhook and rehook, provided you didn't already try to back up in which case it will be nearly impossible. DON'T BACK UP.

That also means you need to plan ahead. Nothing is worse than realizing you just pulled in to an overstuffed gas station with a postage stamp lot and that the "exit" is actually a sidewalk ramp.

The only two times I've had to unhook are in the photo above where it was a lot steeper than I thought, and once at a truckstop where they had a cable across the driveway to the truck side, which I couldn't see until I was comitted.

The transfer case in Jeeps is what makes it really easy. With the current Atlas II I have a 300 mile range before having to start the Jeep to lubricate, and other vehicles don't even have that. With the stock Jeep transfer case you put it in neutral and forget it.

I've towed my wrangler with 31" ATs, 32" Mud tires and 35" Mud tires. The front tires have worn heavily or cupped when flat towing. I'm sure an alignment would have prevented most of the wear problems, but you might be in for a set of tires.

With the exception of the 35s (weight and rolling resistance) it can be hard to remember the Jeep is back there, but it's less wide than the van and I've rarely had problems with turns and all those have been misjudgements on my part.

I wouldn't do this because of the chance of getting stuck and blocking traffic, but this goes to show that it's not the towed vehicle that is limiting:
Video
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Old 12-01-2008, 10:48 AM   #6
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Jage...many thanks for the this info. Now printed and laminated and stuck in my visor...kidding!
So do I want a 4cyl or a 6 cyl? Do I want an auto or a 5 spd? What should I absolutely avoid?
Seems like there are quite a few 10 year old and newer Wranglers in my price range..around $7k.
Last ??? your instructions seem to say you tow with the transfer case in neutral but the tranny in 1st or drive? Am I reading that right?
Chris
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:57 AM   #7
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Yes you're reading right. With the T-case in neutral the drive shafts can spin freely, but that still moves the fluid which can visciously move the input shaft from the transmission- the transmission then rolls around, wears out, doesn't get lubricated etc. Putting the transmission in gear "locks" the output shaft so the fluid in the T-case can't make it spin.

I'm a big fan of the 6 cyl. 4.0L engine, TJs from 2000-2003 and manual transmissions. However those are all flavor choices and don't really affect towing, you're now into "what do I want in a Jeep?"
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Old 12-01-2008, 02:57 PM   #8
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I haven't started looking yet. Need to drive a few. Lots to choose from around here. I'm new to the "jeep" idea but what I want is a sturdy, worthy back country vehicle to use as a back up for the van and for exploring away from camp. Thanks for the help.
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:47 PM   #9
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Re: Custom Flat Tow Brackets for Falcon All Terrain

i am getting ready to pull a lifted 2003 wrangler behind a f150 and/or motorhome. with either a falcon all terrain or stowmaster allterrain(ball mount, easier to put a lifted ball hitch and match height) i also have the same front bumper with the D ring mounts. i am very interested in what shop you got the mounts made at. or if you can make/sell me some. the exact same size/type. i like them, good work. i was thinking the same thing, since i took off my d rings since i installed my winch.
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Old 05-07-2009, 05:22 PM   #10
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Re: Custom Flat Tow Brackets for Falcon All Terrain

It was just an offroad shop in Tucson. Getting them to actually pay attention to customers that don't walk in wanting $X,000 dollars of work was the hard part. Basically we just sleeved the Falcon bracket I'm holding in the photo down to as wide as the D-ring brackets. The sleeves are the same diameter hole and just abutt to the bracket (not inside). I have no idea what they were originally.

For the pins I had to go search for at Farm stores, the only ones in the whole city were twice as long as what I needed, but if you have more time you can look online, or depending on where you are the selection might be better.

These would be easy to make yourself, or arrange the parts and take to a welding shop to have good welds.

You mentioned and F150 and a lifted Jeep- if you're over 33" tires you might not have enough truck. Mine pulled like nothing with 32" mud T/As, but when I went to 35s my Diesel van maxed out in the mountains... just a thought.
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