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01-05-2016, 12:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Motorcycle carrier
My Kawasaki KRL 650 weighs about 450lbs. The rear of my 4x4 van is high, I already have a 2-1/2" receiver built into a modified Ruenel bumper, good for 10,000lb+, as a good anchor. All the available 'hitch carriers' require you to run the bike up a ramp while hanging onto the bars. I wanted 'one man loading, wo/falloing on that man!
This is what I came up with:
I started with $180 Harbor Freight hydraulic motorcycle lift 99887, and designed around that.
I used several load binders and D rings to stabilize the entire contraption, but didn't get any good pictures of their placement.
Super easy to load and unload, very stout. I wouldn't hesitate to hang a Sportster off the back with this lift. Maybe a Road King.
I hauled the bike across country last summer, including 15 miles of serious offroad and creek crossings. The bike never budged
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01-05-2016, 12:27 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 230
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Looks good. Seems pretty easy to use.
Do you have a pin to lock it in the up position during transport?
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01-05-2016, 01:06 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Durango, Colduhrado
Posts: 691
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Very cool idea. Any guess on how much it weighs? Nothing like good old HF stuff. I'll take one please.
__________________
All things being equal - fat people use more soap.
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01-05-2016, 01:29 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ert01
Looks good. Seems pretty easy to use.
Do you have a pin to lock it in the up position during transport?
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It is, the bike only needs to be rolled up a 4" lip, to get on the carrier tray (white)
Lock pin, great question! yes, a pair of 1/2 x 5 through bolts. You can't see them from the pics, but I welded nuts flush into the main HF (red) vertical beam, and clearance holes through my 2x4 (raw steel) vertical beam, one high, one low. They snug everything up, and take the load off the hydraulic cylinder before transport.
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01-05-2016, 01:35 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddyturn
Very cool idea. Any guess on how much it weighs?
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Thanks!
It bridges the gap between the $300 jiggly ones I see hanging off the back of some pick up trucks, only rated for a 250lb 125cc dirtbike, and the monster ones I see on the back of motorhomes, electric, custom hitchwork needed, but will carry over 1200lbs.
120lbs of steel. I put it up there myself in two main pieces, I guess 60lbs each.
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01-05-2016, 07:23 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4,295
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Very nice. One question though. The raw steel channel that runs front to back looks like it runs through the one that goes side to side. Did you cut a hole in the side to side one and slide the other through, or is that just a small stub welded on the end? If so, what's it purpose?
__________________
Arctic Traveller
KC6TNI
2001 GTRV
Advanced 4wd
Agile Ride improvement package
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01-06-2016, 09:42 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller
Very nice. One question though. The raw steel channel that runs front to back looks like it runs through the one that goes side to side. Did you cut a hole in the side to side one and slide the other through, or is that just a small stub welded on the end? If so, what's it purpose?
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The raw 2"x4"x1/8" wall fore and aft beam (front to back) is one piece. The left to right beam is two separate pieces, welded to the faces of the fore and aft beam. I added gussets to the joint for strength, that you can't see in the pics. The left to right beam is two-piece, mostly because I had several 4' pieces left over from another project, but nothing longer, and kept me away from the steel yard. I swear my local steel yard knows me on first name basis. The little stub's purpose is to support the wheel tray.
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08-01-2021, 01:45 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 206
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I know this is an old post but just came across this. What a great idea! Do you still have this? I could prob build this from scratch with all the steel I have in the garage.
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08-02-2021, 10:30 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 1,051
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanguy
I know this is an old post but just came across this. What a great idea! Do you still have this? I could prob build this from scratch with all the steel I have in the garage.
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I do still have it, but only used it once to date. If you build one, I started with $180 Harbor Freight hydraulic motorcycle lift p/n 99887, the red steel, and a trailer motorcycle tray that I picked up at a swap meet. Then designed and built around that. I highly recommend starting with the HF lift, it really shortened my fab time, it's really a stout piece, which you don't get to say about HF things very often, LOL
Not shown, I added load binders (also from HF) to stabilize the load when on trails. I welded D rings to the top of my plate bumper, and the forward facing surface of 2x4 transverse beam (the light red primer beam that the tray bolts to)
__________________
1995 E350 7.3 Diesel, 4x4 high roof camper, UJOR 4" lift
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08-02-2021, 03:20 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsBeast
Not shown, I added load binders (also from HF) to stabilize the load when on trails. I welded D rings to the top of my plate bumper, and the forward facing surface of 2x4 transverse beam (the light red primer beam that the tray bolts to)
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While that is an 1100 lbs lift, it is mainly for a stationary load. So I was going to ask how much wobble you had. This answers the question.
It is difficult to picture how you restained the lift torsionally. Do you have a picture/drawing of the actual load binders?
EDIT: I now see what you mean by load binders. Even if you are 90 deg to the rotation you can really toque this binder down to stop movement.
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